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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Grinding noise, rear passenger tire assembly

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7 replies to this topic

#1 Great White Buffalo

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 08:41 PM

1992 Subaru Loyale 4x4 (push button) 5spd


Here's the issue. I had my wheel bearings replaced a few months back and I figured I was good to go. About a month ago there was noise starting to come from the rear passenger tire area. About a week ago I was going down the local highway at 55mph and the noise was worse and worse...to the point that the wheel came off and the axle kissed the pavement. Sparks flew for several feet. My buddy put the tire back on, told me the hub was shot. He tightened the spindle nut really really tight and said dont go out of town. Stay local for a bit. Drive as less as possible.


There is a grinding noise that fluctuates and if I drive long enough, the rim gets really hot and smells the same. Any ideas here? Obviously something is rubbing really wrong.

#2 Scooner


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Posted 07 April 2014 - 09:27 PM

The person who replaced the bearings didnt torque the hub nut on correctly and most likely didnt put a cotter pin back in to make sure it didnt back off. When your friend put the spindle nut back on really tight that was a mistake and is currently destroying the bearing every time you drive it now. I'd have a word with whoever you had do the bearings the first time, although now you're looking at probably replacing the bearings again. Crappy.

#3 El Presidente

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 10:31 PM

X2, sounds like a bad re assembly. Go back to the place that did the work and make them to fix it right. Wheels don't just fall off cars. Also, if the washer goes on backward, the nut will back off regardless of the cotter pin, it will simple shear it. I've had it happen.



#4 Great White Buffalo

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 10:45 PM

The cotter pin was put on all wheels last time and put back on this
wheel as well. I'll admit, my buddy that did it tends to "redneck"
things, but I don't know what happened. If I take my car to a shop, I'm
looking at parts costs plus almost $100 in labor an hour. That's why I
didn't go to a shop the first time. The other wheels are fine, but I
believe this one is the one he didn't replace the bearing on.
Still...agreed...a crappy situation.

#5 robm


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Posted 08 April 2014 - 12:02 PM

Chances are the hub is toast.  New bearings would be a waste of time.  It may be easier to get a whole new hub,carrier, bearing etc.  Cost me $400 at a shop, used parts $200 and labour the same.  A really good deal if you don't have to do it again.

#6 Great White Buffalo

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Posted 09 April 2014 - 12:54 AM

If I could find a shop where I could have them give the car a look over and fix it all up and just do monthly payments, that would be great. Problem is, most shops I've ever encountered or talked to want the money up front or in one payment after labor is complete.


Problem is-and I have a buddy who used to have his own shop that used to tell me a lot-shops that are flexible tend to get burned by more customers than not. There's a place here in Oak Harbor run by a friend of my buddy...Taz Auto, the guy has had several people try to rip him off so he isn't flexible anymore unless he knows you.


This sucks in general since I still need to replace the windshield, replace the front passenger steering knuckle, replace the 4WD actuator, and now I have a hub assembly to worry about. And yes, I am driving the car as is...and yes, I can hear the damage being done...it's a "rock and a hard place" situation. I have no other means of transportation save for a '68 F100 that needs brakes bled and the steering column worked on...or maybe it's the coupler or gearbox.

#7 djellum


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Posted 09 April 2014 - 05:14 AM

could try a machine shop if you can find one nearby.  they deal with bearings and races all the time.  you could maybe pull the whole assembly out of the car and take it to them.


I took my front section into the local shop here in vancouver and for $35 per side they pressed out the old bearings, tanked and cleaned, greased and pressed in the new ones with seals.  you could actually do what I believe it says in the manual and have them press in the axle and torque it.  its not much more than a half dozen bolts to get the whole rear hub assembly off in one piece. 


won't be cheap but will probably be cheaper than paying shop hours, and you still get the critical work done by a professional.

#8 Great White Buffalo

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Posted 13 April 2014 - 02:37 AM

So...update...got a hub assembly from a Loyale wagon at a local salvage yard and replaced the damaged one that was on mine. Now I just need a new seal and to repack the wheel bearing. Yay. Thanks for the input fellows.

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