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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Power loss after changing T-belts


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#26 206airmail

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 07:44 PM

Well, I'll take a look, would that cause problems with just 2 cylinders? It's just my right cylinder's that are not running properly. I'll certainly take a look though



#27 MilesFox

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 08:41 PM

No, the only pulley i took off was the v-belt pulley.

So I moved the belt around a little bit more, got it in a spot where the car was running just perfect, no backfiring, good rpm increase when you gave it gas. Then I tensioned the belt, and started it and let it warm up for a while, and as it warmed up it started running worse and worse until now it is back at the point where it backfires really bad, and really super slow rpm increase when you give it gas. If you just push the gas all the way down, it almost kills it.

Is it possible that my belt is stretching out somehow as it warms up and throwing the valve timing off? A defective belt maybe? Or is there something else that could be contributing to it?

One other thing, my radiator fluid level is wayyy down, like a couple inches below the neck of the radiator. I flushed it last year, and wasn't sure that I got it refilled all the way (didn't seem to take as much as it should have) but i checked it pretty regularly over the next few months and it was always full. I have not checked it recently, so don't know if this is something new or... It's not bubbling at all, is it possible for my head gasket to have gone out but the fluid not be bubbling? any other way to check? Does not really seem to be putting excess water out my tail pipe, although there might be slightly more then normal, but not by hardly anything.

I'm just really stumped...

I had it running just perfect, and then it just started running worse and worse... Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

Intake gaskets. Do them, I bet you a dollar. Runs fine until warm, sucks coolant like a head gasket, but without the compression loss.

 

Don't twist off the bolts. avoikd this by using SSLLLOOOWWWW even torque, DO NOT turn the bolt faster than it can twist or you will snap it. Ise a longer tool for better control, and do not bounce the tool. Do your homework on intake bolts



#28 colemanapp

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 08:59 PM

If Miles is right and its the intake gaskets, those bolts are a b''''ch. We heated, pb blasted, heated, pb blasted over a 3 day period before even touching them with a tool. Then we still had 2 snap off and had to drill those out. LOTS OF HEAT. TAKE YOUR TIME. And when you reinstall, use some antiseize on those bolts.



#29 Gloyale

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 09:01 PM

how are you establishing that it's just 2 cylinders???

 

This is sounding more like a carb issue......not sure....but it would be good to establish why you think it's just one side not the whole engine.



#30 206airmail

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 09:10 PM

When the engine is running, the right cylinders are running cool, plus when you listen to the engine, it is very easy to hear that the right side is not running nearly as smooth as the left.

And, Gloyale, It is the EA82 SPFI Fuel injected engine, not a carbed engine. Yeah, intake bolts certainly are a b**ch, I'll give it a shot though.

How do I collect my dollar if it isn't them Miles? :P just kidding

Thanks for your help so much guys!



#31 MilesFox

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 09:50 PM

I had a carb apart and back together on an 86 gl. it would run fine until i got in it and tried to go, an as soon as i got to the top of 2nd gear, it would run like crap and be undriveable. Turned out to be the intake gasket. A simple fix that is easy to overlook.

 

IF this is not the case, it is wise to do them as PM if you can do it without breaking bolts. The condition of the bolts will be based on how rusty(road salt) of an environment you live, if the car has sat for long periods, or how frequently the cooling system had been serviced.

 

The threads go thru into the water jacket, and rust forms up the shank of the bolt in the intake holes.

 

I suggest this as a repair or torubleshoot only once you are CERTAIN the timing belts and distributor are properly in time. IF you have been moving the cam a notch here and there, i suggest you just take out the belts and start all over following the vids and the write ups



#32 206airmail

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 10:12 PM

I'm gonna try them, i'll go ahead and reset everything and do them. do i need to drain my cooling system before pulling them out?



#33 MilesFox

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 11:03 PM

No that will not be necessary, as you can work around the radiator and the water pump. Do yourself a favor and leave the covers off until you know the car is solid and you can seal it up for good. Just leave them off anyway, and you will thank yourself the next time you service the car.

 

There is the argement of covers vs not, but any risk with exposed belts is outweighd by making a 2 hour job a 10 minute job.



#34 206airmail

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 08:04 AM

yeah, i agree Miles, I've been planning on leaving them off anyways



#35 206airmail

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Posted 25 June 2014 - 02:02 PM

Well guys, I'm finally getting back to this, I found an engine for 300 on Craigslist that I've dropped in, and just finishing it up. Any chance any of you have some good pics of your engine with it all installed in the car? I don't remember how the wiring routes exactly, and also, the vacuum lines and fuel lines and such. My hard drive crashed that had my pics on it that I took before I started pulling the intake a couple months ago. Also, I need torque values for the engine mounts, engine to transmission bolts, and exhaust manifold bolts.
I don't have the money for a book right now, so if one of you have them, that would be awesome :-)
Thanks so much for all your guys help! Never could have done all this without these forums




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