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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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First Gen 1980 DL runs like crap


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13 replies to this topic

#1 BlackCasio

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Posted 09 April 2014 - 08:12 PM

I picked up this little 1600 DL Hatch about a month ago and have installed new CV's, a muffler, rebuilt the carb, and cleaned it up as best I can. After running for a couple minutes the rpm's like to jump up to about 2000 or more and once even up to 3500. Sometimes if I hit the gas it will go back down a bit but it still runs like crap the entire time. When I purchased it I checked all fluids and went over the essentials, and other than this running problem, it checked out fine. The other day I checked the oil and it turns out it has a bit of gas in it. Haven't changed the oil because I don't want to have it do the same thing again and be back where I started. I'm 90% sure its not the head gasket. It doesn't smoke other than a little puff on start up sometimes, the coolant is clean, and the oil isn't milky at all. The carb seems to be letting too much gas in, but the idle screw does absolutely nothing to change that and from what I can tell there is no separate fuel and air screws. I am totally stumped and would really appreciate any input or help if you're in the Portland area. I live in Wilsonville and would pay for your gas to come give it a once over if you think you'd be helpful.
I'll answer any questions to the best of my knowledge.

Thanks in advance all.
-BC
 



#2 BlackCasio

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Posted 09 April 2014 - 08:14 PM

Also, when oil was checked when buying, it was absolutely clean oil. 
And the reason I need someone to come here is its not registered or insured yet because it won't pass DEQ to get my tags.



#3 Gloyale

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Posted 09 April 2014 - 08:22 PM

Carb needs the emulsions tubes cleaned, the venturi o-rings changed.......and the choke set.....

 

PM me if you really want me to come look at it........

 

Otherwise....I can help somewhat via this forum......

 

I would suggest buying a carb kit.....and pulling the top off the carb.....blow out the jets and emulsion tubes.....

 

Hitachi's are a pretty simple carb.



#4 BlackCasio

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Posted 11 April 2014 - 05:45 PM

Got everything cleaned out and it still will not run smooth, and now when I rev it it backfires while the rpms wind down and since I bought it, it backfires once when turning off. I am completely stumped. I messed with the timing, adjusted idle speed, and adjusted mixture screw (which still does nothing when turned either way). It's quite a drive for you to come up here Gloyale, but if no one else in a closer proximity can then I'll pay for your gas to come check it out.
I'm willing to try and get walked through something and I can post a video of it running if that would help, but I'm to the point where it's beyond my knowledge.
Thanks all

#5 the sucker king

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Posted 11 April 2014 - 11:57 PM

if the mixture screw doesn't change anything, that implies a vacuum leak.



#6 BlackCasio

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 10:01 AM

I've changed every vacuum line other than one because it looked new, but I guess it could be the culprit. Thanks, I'll get that taken care of and update with the results.

#7 BlackCasio

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Posted 13 April 2014 - 03:35 PM

Changed the last line and got the mixture screw to respond a little bit, but not like it should. If anyone in the Wilsonville/Portland area would be willing to come take a look at it I would greatly appreciate it and like I said before I'll pay for your gas or buy you beer or whatever you may want for your time and gas cost.

#8 chompy

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Posted 13 April 2014 - 07:33 PM

The vacuum leak could be between the carb and the intake.  Do you have a propane torch you can use?  You can point the nozzle near base of the carb(UNLIT OF COURSE) while the car is running and it will suck in the propane through any vacuum leak.  You will hear the engine respond when you get the gas near the leak.

 

edit: PS: My car would backfire(diesel) when shutting it off if the idle was too high.  Just a little FYI


Edited by chompy, 13 April 2014 - 07:36 PM.


#9 BlackCasio

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Posted 13 April 2014 - 09:14 PM

Thanks for the response chompy.
I tested it with starting fluid and found one bigger hose that was pretty hidden that made the rpms increase slightly, but I just changed all the gaskets on the carb so I know that's not the culprit. However it did start a ticking sound once I replaced the vacuum line earlier today. It sounds like it may need the valves adjusted which I've done on previous vehicles, but I'm thinking it could also be out of time? I adjusted the timing by ear because I was told timing lights don't work very well on older cars due to stretching. Ticking didn't seem to stop when I messed with it though...

#10 BlackCasio

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 12:46 AM

After going over it a little more I found a wire that was unplugged and figured out it was what went to the idle stop solenoid. It's broken off very clean on the solenoid itself so it wasn't noticeable. I read a few things after searching but it seems that it does different things on a lot of cars. Is that something that could cause it to run too rich or maybe stop the backfire when turning off?

#11 BlackCasio

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 04:57 PM

I fixed the wire and it actually seems to run smoother. Not sure if it's just being inconsistent or if it actually helped but it seems to have helped.
Now on another note, the car is running way too rich. It's kind of boggy when you first start it like it's being overloaded with gas, and it lets out a little burp every time I shut it off. Will a very small vacuum leak cause it to run that rich?
Thanks

#12 the sucker king

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Posted 14 April 2014 - 09:41 PM

vacuum leak will lean it out, not run rich.  A comment you made in one of your previous posts about the timing- If I were you a would put a gun on it, I don't know what that advice means about old cars and stretching, as in, stretching a timing belt? No timing belt on your car, a timing gun is the most accurate way to set your timing. Or at least confirm it will confirm that you did a good job when you tuned by ear.

If I were you I would do this- fix the minor vaccuum leak you reffered to. then set the mixture screw 2 full turns out from all the way in. Be careful not to turn it in too hard when you find the all the way in possition, you'll bugger up the pointy end. Then back the idle screw out so it doesn't make contact. Start the car and it should run like this, only really chugga chugga like. Low and super slow. If it won't start like that, try moving the disty around to find a spot where it will. If you can get it to run like this, then turn the mixture screw in till it stumbles and dies. back it out 1/4 to 1/2 turn. set the idle to around 800 rpm. then set the timing with a gun. In that order.



#13 chompy

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Posted 15 April 2014 - 10:16 AM

Ya the ticking could be the timing is too advanced...  Use a timing light and set it to 8*.  Our cars have EA81s which don't have timing belts, so don't wory about that.  Listen to what Suckerking is saying about setting the carb back to baseline.  You might end up doing it a few times at least before you really get the hang of setting the idle and mixture screws.  Adjust it slowly and wait for the carb to respond before turning the screw again.



#14 ferox

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Posted 15 April 2014 - 12:44 PM

An unresponsive idle mix screw is often from the idle circuit being clogged and then the carb gets tuned to by-pass it.  This results in a rich running condition.  How did you clean the carb?  Tools, solvents, etc...Did you use a carb rebuild kit or just clean up the carb and reassemble?  Does your carb have a throttle return spring?  What reference did you use to set the float level?

 

I would also suggest adjusting your valve lash.  It takes a while for it to get so far out of spec that it causes problems, but it is also a maintenance item that routinely gets ignored for decades.






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