Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
1990 Loyale engine problem
Posted 13 April 2014 - 04:38 PM
Posted 13 April 2014 - 05:06 PM
Not criticial of you or anyone else but...starting to think it would help the OP's with diagnostics if posts were set out a bit like this >>
Hi, new guy here. I was happily driving my Loyale down the highway when
the engine just quit. no stumble or misfiring, just completely quit,
it wont even think about starting. it cranks at normal speed?
so far I have checked the fuel
pressure just after the fuel filter,
looks same as any random fuel pressure inspection done when car has been running fine?
you can tell us if it is carb, spfi or mpfi ? fi neds about 36 psi , not just low pressure delivery
so have you tried a momentary spray start assist fuel replacement in air tract ?
checked that all plugs were getting a spark,
checked compression. so far all is normal except the
compression on the left two cylinders (from the drivers seat) are 80 - 90 psi
that 'd be cyls 2 and 4, dizzy side ? how much in normal cylinders ?
I figured a head gasket problem,
but would that cause the engine
to quit like that? what else should I look at? thanks.
Edited by jono, 13 April 2014 - 05:06 PM.
Posted 14 April 2014 - 07:30 AM
Posted 14 April 2014 - 08:26 AM
you likely have shot bearings on the timing components and/or water pump. sometimes they dont get replaced with the belts
Posted 14 April 2014 - 10:05 AM
Posted 14 April 2014 - 10:14 AM
the compression on the good cylinders was 165 and the Haynes manual suggested low compression on 2 cylinders of the same side is indicative of a head gasket leak and there's oil on the bottom side of those cylinders. that's all that went into my diagnosis. Thanks again for the help!
That's a kinduv general thought on headgaskets that applies to most old Iron engines....but not so much to subarus.
On a Subaru....low compression on one bank of cylinders is ussually always a timing issue.....valves open wrong time= weak/no compression.
It on;y makes sense....since you see the one thing that pairs a set of cylinders on a side is the CAM.
Posted 14 April 2014 - 12:36 PM
Posted 14 April 2014 - 01:03 PM
"...anything else I should be replacing while I am in there?"
Water pump, if it hasn't been done in a while.
Posted 14 April 2014 - 06:36 PM
Beware of the remanufactured water pumps. I have heard a lot of failure stories. I like the new japanese brands. I put in an Aisain 5 years ago... no problems with it.
Posted 14 April 2014 - 09:13 PM
YOu get spark and fuel pressure because the belt is still turning the distributor which sends the spark and fuel signal to the ecu, although since half your belt fell apart, i'm sure it is a few teeth off if not more, being out of time.
Ineresting belt failure pics. I have only seen the snap cleanly, shear off some teeth while the belt is intact, or unravel into a 50 ft long ball of wire.
Def. do the water pump while in there. avoud chan stores and stick to smething like napa and go with an aisin brand mfg'd new or napa's alltrom brand for oem supply (made in japan)
Posted 19 April 2014 - 06:23 AM
Posted 19 April 2014 - 11:04 AM
that guide ring is pressed onto the drive gear, it is not available as a replacement part. the oil pump has one on both sides of the gear if i remember correctly. you should be able to replace the drive gear with one from another pump if you can locate one.
i would suggest you replace all the timing tensioners and idler because it seems like your belt had been rubbing this shoulder ring which indicates that something is misalligned and causing the belt to run toward that side. anyway a new timing set and drive gear for the pump should get you going. check the bolt hole for the idler gear sometimes that hole is wallowed and lets the idler tilt and shift the belt, tensioners wear and tilt slightly, same issue belt runs offline.
Posted 19 April 2014 - 12:38 PM
I'm pretty sure I have a used oil pump laying around. It was replaced because of a Tick of Death on my Loyale. If you'd like, I can mail it to you and you can use it for parts. PM me if you're interested.
Posted 24 April 2014 - 06:58 AM
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users