Hinano Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 I just bought a 90 2.2 awd 5speed and it has major problems. It leaks from what I can tell, basically every seal there is. Valve covers, and behind the timing cover so cam seal. It was first starting up fine but now, sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't. . I replaced the radiator, new fuel filter and spark plugs. It has a rough idle. All plugs are sparking, all injectors seem to be working. Cylinder one is basically the only one which disconnecting the injector will kill the motor.. When it doesn't want to start, I have to keep cranking it and it sometimes sputters and sputters and eventually starts. Sometimes it doesn't start at all. I have been messing with this thing for a week now and with oil pouring everywhere, I'm really about to give up. What can I do? What can I do to check things while the motor is off so I can stop spilling oil everywhere? Please help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyBrat Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 if it has that many problems, why did you buy it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hinano Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 It was sitting for two years when I bought it. It didn't show any of these problems when we first fired it up. Also, it smokes until its warmed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyBrat Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 hope you didnt pay much for it in any case though, it will be a good project! anyway i will stop cluttering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hinano Posted April 14, 2014 Author Share Posted April 14, 2014 (edited) Oh man. The timing cover screws were threaded so I just broke off the side covers. Milky oil inside.. Headgaskets, yay.. Can someone tell me how I can tell if the rear seal is leaking? Where would it drip or come out? Edited April 14, 2014 by Hinano Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 the 90 EJ22 is actually a very robust motor. on the rear leak - more than likely the oil separator plate that is the problem, not the rear main, altho if it has been sitting anything is possible. look at the seam between motor and bell housing on passenger side, if it is oily & damp looking, then yes, you have a leak back there. Only way to fix that one is to separate engine and tranny...lucky for you the 90 has the cast alloy plate, it just needs to be resealed. it would drip out at the bottom of the bellhousing/engine seam - and yes, it can be the cause of massive leaking... there is also a cam endcap on the back of the passenger side head that is known to leak - round cap with 2 triangular screw tabs - there is an o-ring inside to seal it that probably needs changing. Just because you have milky oiliness inside the timing covers does NOT mean headgaskets - moisture can get inside the timing covers and mix with oil that has leaked from the cam & crank seals - especially if it has been sitting - what does the engine oil look like? is it milky at all? have you done an oil change on it? What does the coolant look like? these are better indicators of headgasket failure than milky oil inside the timing covers. The smoking can be from stuck rings from it sitting so long, there are ways of trying to free them up without pulling it apart. Do a search for more info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 get the PCV valve and hoses changed/cleaned too. High crankcase pressures will exacerbate oil leaks. After that, it may be better to keep topping the fluids off while digging for more serious issues. If the engine has to come apart, or be replaced, no point in putting new valve cover gaskets on now. Compression/leakdown tests may be a good next move. Also, shopping for an engine from the junkyards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hinano Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 I just degreased the engine bay and under the engine. I will try to get under it tomorrow. I checked my oil dipstick and found milkiness. But that said, I have been spraying so much water and cleaner stuff that I would not be surprised if water made its way through the valve cover gaskets and into the engine...(I could see air bubbling from the valve cover gasket) I will clean out the pcv pipes and valve tomorrow. I'll make sure to take a bunch of pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 How old is the gas that's in it? Did you pump all the old gas out before putting fresh in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 X2 on a junkyard motor. The EJ22 is one tough cookie. If this one has headgaskets + plenty of oil leaks etc. it may be beneficial to try and track down a cheap used motor on craigslist or a junkyard. Depending on how overheated the engine may have been and the fact that it's been sitting for a while makes it a bit of a crapshoot to try and sort out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hinano Posted April 16, 2014 Author Share Posted April 16, 2014 (edited) UPDATE: Cleaned the PCV hoses and it runs MUCH better. The idle is not at 500 any more but around 800 or 900. It is still missing though.. Also, milky oil on the dip stick.. Smoke out the back, looks like bad head gasket or head. I have removed the intake, battery and washer fluid tank and am ready to do whatever I have to do to fix it. The rear seal does not look like it is leaking much so unless I have to replace the whole motor, my plan is to repair or get a new head and fix the cam seal, valve cover and oil pan. I am researching my options on new head as the current one might be unsalvageable. On another note, I picked up my 04 STI spring and struts along with later model Legacy wheels. 04 WRX interior going in this weekend too! Edited April 16, 2014 by Hinano Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 You didn't answer my question about the gas. Old bad gas in the tank from a car sitting will wreak havoc on an engine. It turns to glue on the valve stems and sticks them in place. Once a valve sticks, you loose compression on that cylinder and it will also start sucking oil past the rings. Within a few times of starting the engine up, running it, and letting it cool off, you go from a engine that ran fine, to one that's missfireing, burning a ton of oil. and running like garbage. I've seen engine's replaced due to it, only to have the new engine meet the same fate within a day of being put in because the bad gas was still in the tank. I've seen pushrods get bent on OHV v8's when the valves stick shut, pushrods drop out of inline 6's when the valves get stuck open, rockers drop out of EA82's when the valves stick open. It's a massive problem, and it's all due to junk gas. When I revive any older car now I run it off a boat tank with a separate pump until I can get it to the shop and clean out the fuel system. Dealing with the aftermath of trying to run it on what's left in the tank or pouring fresh gas into the tank and dissolving the varnish coating the inside of the fuel system and letting it get fed into the engine just isn't worth it. Carb cleaner sprayed around the stems inside the intake ports, heat from a hot air gun, and tapping the rocker with a soft hammer can often free the valves up again, but sometimes you have to pull the heads, take the valves out, and clean the valve stems and guides off manually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hinano Posted April 16, 2014 Author Share Posted April 16, 2014 You didn't answer my question about the gas. Old bad gas in the tank from a car sitting will wreak havoc on an engine. It turns to glue on the valve stems and sticks them in place. Once a valve sticks, you loose compression on that cylinder and it will also start sucking oil past the rings. Within a few times of starting the engine up, running it, and letting it cool off, you go from a engine that ran fine, to one that's missfireing, burning a ton of oil. and running like garbage. I've seen engine's replaced due to it, only to have the new engine meet the same fate within a day of being put in because the bad gas was still in the tank. I've seen pushrods get bent on OHV v8's when the valves stick shut, pushrods drop out of inline 6's when the valves get stuck open, rockers drop out of EA82's when the valves stick open. It's a massive problem, and it's all due to junk gas. When I revive any older car now I run it off a boat tank with a separate pump until I can get it to the shop and clean out the fuel system. Dealing with the aftermath of trying to run it on what's left in the tank or pouring fresh gas into the tank and dissolving the varnish coating the inside of the fuel system and letting it get fed into the engine just isn't worth it. Carb cleaner sprayed around the stems inside the intake ports, heat from a hot air gun, and tapping the rocker with a soft hammer can often free the valves up again, but sometimes you have to pull the heads, take the valves out, and clean the valve stems and guides off manually. Oh wow that doesn't sound good! The car had maybe like one gallon of gas when I bought the car and I filled it up with fresh gas. I thought that would have been good enough.. The weird thing was that the screw under the gas tank was loose and dripping when I got home. I think that the someone dumped the old gas but I am not sure. I put in Marvel Mystery Oil as recommended by someone in the gas too.. This is worrisome.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 x2 cam seals x2 camplug orings x1 front crank seal x1 timing belt x1 waterpump x1 valvecover gasket set x1 coged idler pully x1 front crank seal and she will be good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 Oh wow that doesn't sound good! The car had maybe like one gallon of gas when I bought the car and I filled it up with fresh gas. I thought that would have been good enough.. The weird thing was that the screw under the gas tank was loose and dripping when I got home. I think that the someone dumped the old gas but I am not sure. I put in Marvel Mystery Oil as recommended by someone in the gas too.. This is worrisome.. OR...........the screw in the gas tank was put screwed in there to seal a leak in the gas tank?? Re: "I think that the someone dumped the old gas but I am not sure," perhaps the gas simply leaked out?? Has simply driving the car with the MMO added, improved how the engine runs?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 OR...........the screw in the gas tank was put screwed in there to seal a leak in the gas tank?? Re: "I think that the someone dumped the old gas but I am not sure," perhaps the gas simply leaked out?? Has simply driving the car with the MMO added, improved how the engine runs?? Nah....early Legacies had a drain bolt in the tank. 12mm head. eliminated in 92? I think. Like the old EA81 and early EA82's the had em too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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