Wheel Bearings on '99 Outback Wagon

[ThosL]

One of my wheel bearings is going on my '99 Outback.

 

It just started making the grinding noises a few days ago so I am limiting my use of the car until it becomes clear what the risks are. I went down to a local shop today and their estimate was $550 as he said both sides should be done at the same time with bearings and seals needing replacement.  Labor he figured at $345 for the job.  Is this fair?  How would other handle the problem??  Thanks!

[1 Lucky Texan]

unless both sides show some evidence of failure - don't do both sides. If the other side rocks up and down or sounds or 'feels' crunchy, maybe do them both if you have the funds. But, if the other side isn't 'bad' or, even if it has some slight movement, just drive on it and save-up for that side's repair. It would be unusual for both sides to be equally bad.

 

if you can do any DIY work and need to save some money, you could consider removing the knuckle yourself and taking it to a shop. You buy the parts too from NAPA, RockAuto or Amazon or an online dealer like subarugenuineparts.com or others - take everything to the shop.

Edited April 21, 2014 by 1 Lucky Texan

[ThosL]

OK, thanks.  I will probably seek out a second opinion after this one.

[idosubaru]

replace the bad wheel bearing, the other side could easily last the life of the vehicle.

 

i generally recommend avoiding dealers, but in this case subaru has a special tool that allows them to replace the bearing on the vehicle, so it may reduce risk of damaging ball joints, tie rods, and affecting alignment if you get it done at a place that is equipped to do that.  in the rust belt, those items are often damaged during the process without care or good tools.  anyone can do it and they should be equipped and ready for rust but never know.

 

sometimes swapping in a used entire knuckle assembly is a cheaper option, $25-$50 and you're done. but if you're paying labor it's not a good option.

[Rooster2]

I think I paid $75 for a used knuckle from a wrecking yard a couple of years back. It is a pretty easy swap in. You should be able to find a shop to install the knuckle. My 99 OBW knuckle is from a 99 Forester, as they used the same part. Should be lots available from wrecking yards.

[ThosL]

Thanks, I'll check with F and S in Roxbury, I can't afford over $500 on my income for one of many problems that come along every couple months.  Front knuckles in excellent shape may be hard to find but rear ones have got to be more available .

[Junkie]

I wouldn't drive it unless absolutely necessary. Worst case scenario is the wheel falling off, you can imagine what that could lead to if it happens at the wrong time. 

 

My 99 Outback also needed a wheel bearing at one point, due to a bent hub. No clue how the bent hub happened, just know that it did. This was when it was my mom's car, she didn't drive it like I do - if there was one bent now I'd blame my driving.

[zombieforce]

Considering its a northern car I would be more inclined to look for a used knuckle and links. Even down here where cars are relatively rust free I still have had better luck replacking rear knuckles than pressing bearings in and out. That long bolts always freezes in the bushing. I usually just cut the bolt out and replace links or just get a whole knuckle and l just nks togehter and swap it in. Fronts are a breeze but as you can see my luck with rear bearings hasnt been great.

[Gloyale]

One of my wheel bearings is going on my '99 Outback.

 

It just started making the grinding noises a few days ago so I am limiting my use of the car until it becomes clear what the risks are. I went down to a local shop today and their estimate was $550 as he said both sides should be done at the same time with bearings and seals needing replacement.  Labor he figured at $345 for the job.  Is this fair?  How would other handle the problem??  Thanks!

That honestly sounds like a good quote for the area you are in.

 

He's bound to struggle with rust, broken bolts...the long linkage bolt in the rear is a beeetch!

 

You might even want to be ready to add a few $ to that bill if things are difficult.

[bgambino]

funny coincidence....2 hours ago I went to a local junk yard for a used front hub

included the caliper and decent rotor (neither of which I need).  they tore up the ball joint boot adding to my work though

$65

 

And why was I buying it??

I had a bad front bearing on my 96 OB wagon

Took the hub off and brought to this mechanic guy I know of

And guess what...he tries to press it out and breaks the arms off for the tie rod etc......just my luck

 

I plan on just putting this on and NOT having him touch the bearing

I am hoping it is good

I'll save the OEM bearings (I bought 2 online from Walker Renton) and seals/clips

[ThosL]

That honestly sounds like a good quote for the area you are in.

 

He's bound to struggle with rust, broken bolts...the long linkage bolt in the rear is a beeetch!

 

You might even want to be ready to add a few $ to that bill if things are difficult.

 

Connecticut may have been a wealthy state at one point, but it is a lot spottier now with many low income people.  As a result people look around for better deals but even the discount or budget mechanics still angle for the bigger bucks they raked in during fat times.   

 

The bearing makes noise once in a while, too bad there is no way to inject teflon or wheel grease into the affected parts to prolong life.

[lmdew]

Unless there is play in the hub, bearings can go for years with a little noise.

 

320K on my 98 Impreza and the rear bearings have been making some noise for years!  

 

Has not gotten any worse, no play in the hub.  Yes it makes noise but not enough to drive me to change them.  

[ThosL]

It turns out that the parts needed to be taken apart.  Today I had a terrible grinding noise develop in the rear hub, I thought it was the bearing.  I stopped at a Monro dealer and once they got it apart it turned out to be the emergency brake parts that messed up the rear driver's side brake hub.  They estimated the job at around $1000 but said they could not get to it for a few days so I asked them to put it back together and they were able to do it safely and charged me under $70 for the labor.  Too bad the two basic maintenance jobs I had in the last couple months, one at another Monro, they did not check the rear brake hubs.  I will try to get this fixed next week.  There was no play in the rear wheel so unlikely the bearing is going.  It was the e-brake problem making noises like a bad bearing.

[Rooster2]

It turns out that the parts needed to be taken apart.  Today I had a terrible grinding noise develop in the rear hub, I thought it was the bearing.  I stopped at a Monro dealer and once they got it apart it turned out to be the emergency brake parts that messed up the rear driver's side brake hub.  They estimated the job at around $1000 but said they could not get to it for a few days so I asked them to put it back together and they were able to do it safely and charged me under $70 for the labor.  Too bad the two basic maintenance jobs I had in the last couple months, one at another Monro, they did not check the rear brake hubs.  I will try to get this fixed next week.  There was no play in the rear wheel so unlikely the bearing is going.  It was the e-brake problem making noises like a bad bearing.

Wow..........for a $1,000 job, that sounds like a lot of money for exactly what work do they propose?? Is the problem with the hub or the rotor??

[ThosL]

They did not give me a written estimate. They said the verbal prices they gave me were based on repairing the E brake and the rear brake parts.  They just showed me a bunch of loose parts that came out when they removed the rear hub, so I was thinking this was going to be a minimum of several hundred dollars.

 

But it could have been a lot worse I guess.  I was passing through New Haven on the way to Guilford, when I hear all this racket and grinding sounds and difficulty in driving.  So I call J and J.  They said they would charge around $300 to tow it to their garage in New Milford.  Then I call AAA and they actually have pretty low rates for towing.  Then I called F and S and he told me to get the car jacked up and check out the wheel for play.  There wasn't any play in the wheel.  So I look for a mechanic at a factory and of course they were afraid of helping a stranger in distress and said they didn't have any one who could help diagnosis.  So then I drove it several miles with the terrible grinding sound.

 

As far as I know it is just the broken E-brake that caused all the trouble.  Monro gave me the parts they did not put back in a little bag.  What a relief. 

Edited May 11, 2014 by ThosL

[Rooster2]

Diagnosing brake trouble on a Subie is not rocket science. Does your e-brake still work?? The e-brake, and brake system is just a simple, no nonsense design that anyone who has worked on brake jobs can figure out. If this turns out to be a brake problem, any reputable shop can fix this for prolly less then $200.

[ThosL]

OK, I stopped at Advance today and have an appointment this afternoon for the job.

 

Follow-up; a less expensive garage, Morales Auto in New Milford did the rear brakes for around $111.  Since Ebrakes are not required by law, I will not pay to fix mine.  That's all I had to pay and it probably wasn't even necessary to do that as they were 60% or so worn.  But the fear I went through a few days ago made me think this was going to be an expensive problem which it wasn't.

Edited May 15, 2014 by ThosL

[ThosL]

On the front end issue, hopefully I have seen the end of this for the time being.  Morales auto wasn't able to get the driver's side knuckle out to change the lower bearing after putting in the tie rods.  So I got a used front knuckle for $75 and they installed that the next day.  Town Fair does alignments for $70, I am getting that done, has not had an alignment in a while.  From the look of things alignments are usually pretty minimal with the newer cars, with mine it should be another story.