Logan K Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Im swapping a D/R 5speed trans into my Loyale, read on here somewhere that the Xt6 clutch was a more robust unit and since I'm planning on running bigger tires and pushing it pretty hard I went and got a new OEM XT6 clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing from Subaru. Put clutch and pressure plate on, now I can't get the shaft on the trans to slide back into the engine. Am I just being a ding-dong and not pushing hard enough or is the spline count on those clutches completely different and I bought the wrong thing? Trans seems to be more or less in the right spot, its on the two studs at the bottom of the engine and the top of the bell housing looks to be level with the motor. I'm lost! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruparts Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 hi, i believe the splines for the xt6 disc is the same as the d/r 4x4 trans. the step on the flywheel is a different depth between xt6 and the 1.8 loyale type cars. so the clutch is designed for the step spec on the xt6 flywheel. that would not cause the trans shaft to not go in, it does have clamping force implications though. folks have the 1.8 flywheel step machined to the xt6 step height to use the xt6 clutch set. however if you got the disc centered over the pilot bearing just right,, it should slide in. the usual problem ( for me) is misalignment of the trans and engine,, the lower bolts are a good start but it has to be square up ,, check the gap between the bottom of the trans bell housing and the block and compare to the gap at the top of the bell housing and block.. you might also try turning the crank a bit as you go, sometimes the splines hit on edge and just need to tiny turn to slip in place. shaft and disc is a precision fit so everything has to be aligned pretty much "right on", or it don't go. possibility they gave you the wrong disc,,? there is a smaller spline that went with the 200mm diameter clutches,, it does not work for the 4x4 trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 When my boy and I were dropping his motor back in (after a pull and reseal)... we had problems getting the shaft to slide in. Turns out the little inspection plate on the bottom of the bell housing was bent up slightly and prevented the usual 'slide right on'. I actually removed the little inspection plate and reinstalled after the motor was in. Try that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan K Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 So am I going to need to swap flywheels? Has anyone had experience running xt6 clutches with 1.8 flywheels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Sounds like the step is different with XT clutch. I would check the specs on the step difference. Yes, you may want to have your flywheel machined to the proper specs. However, this is not why you can't get your shaft in. This is just an alignment problem. Did you use the clutch alignment tool? Is the bell housing inspection plate in the way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan K Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 Subaru's "clutch kit" does not come with an alignment tool...just a pressure plate, clutch and throwout bearing. And once you get the Subaru packaging off, turns out its just a Valeo clutch that I could have gotten at work for half the price...needless to say im not pleased. Regardless, sounds like I need to pull the flywheel back out and take it to the machine shop. Does anyone know what the difference in specs between ea82 and er27 flywheel is? And on a different note, can I use the xt6 pressure plate with ea82 clutch? Thank you for your help I really appreciate it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Uh, Oh. You might need that clutch alignment tool to get everything centered before you bolt it. I'm not sure about all the swapping of parts... you might google it (Subaru flywheel step) or post something over on the Off Road section. Good luck. You'll get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 take the starter out and loosen the pressure plate bolts until you get it to go togehter. then tightne them and reinstall the starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan K Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Went and got another clutch kit, an exedy brand one that is for the ea82. Came with the alignment tool, I used it, got the clutch installed properly (at least I assume)....the trans still refuses to slide in. I am completely lost. Done clutches on other vehicles and never had this kind of problem. I can get the trans to go onto the two studs at the bottom of the bellhousing but I can't get it to slide far enough in to thread nuts on both sides. Shook it side to side, up and down, pried on it from various angles, hit it with a hammer, cussed at it, spit on it. Now I'm laying here in a puddle of Copenhagen, gear oil and blood and am no closer to getting this thing in. There is no logical reason I know of as to why it cannot work. The clutch slides onto the trans splines when its out of the car, but it will absolutely NOT go in when the clutch is installed. At this point I'm just ranting I guess, maybe I will try what miles suggested and install it with the pressure plate loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Did you remove the inspection plate? Sounds stupid, but that was what my problem was... and I have pulled/dropped in several motors. All it takes is for that plate to be bent up slightly... then the motor will not slide back. And don't cuss at your Subie... they can hear you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 jack up the trans by the rear diff so it is well clear of the crossmember. There is some technique inolved with hanging the motor and getting the angle right. Sometimes itdoes take some wiggle room. Did you change the pilot bearing? You will have to play withthe angle to get the pilot shaft to line up. Let the motor tilt up and give it some wiggle. Also, make sure you don't have any stuck or double dowels on the side of the bellhousing. The dowels can be driven in or out with a drift punch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 The flywheel and clutch you have are fine and will work. The step difference between EA and ER( 4cyl vs. 6cy) is on;y .015" It will still work fine with the flywheel you have. You just need to get them to line up. If needed....you can leave teh PP bolts loose......install the engine/trans....the tighten the PP bolts through the starter hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan K Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 I have the crossmember removed presently (am in the process of swapping from s/r 5speed to d/r 5speed. no I did not change the pilot bearing, reason being the clutch is actually relatively new and the pilot bearing is in excellent conndition, im just changing clutch+pressure plate out since im in there already and had the parts sitting in the garage. My guess is that im just not going in at the correct angle, the tranny jack im using is made for fullsize truck or larger applications and the little 5 speed just rolls around on the plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Forget the tranny jack and mount the rear half of the trans to the crossmember. then jack up the diff and install the engine. this will give you more control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 +1 on jacking up the front diff a few inches. This will help with clearance to get the motor to slide onto shaft. I would still remove the inspection plate... It worked for me. Bad decision to not replace the pilot bearing... unless you know for a fact that it was very recently replaced. It cost about $5 Punch it out... punch it back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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