Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

Donig Rear Wheel Bearings (Lateral Link Bolt)

Lateral Link Bolt Lateral Link assembly Lateral Link Bolt removal

  • Please log in to reply
16 replies to this topic

#1 billrigsby

billrigsby

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 62 posts
  • Florissant, CO

Posted 27 April 2014 - 02:59 PM

I am doing rear wheel bearings on a 99 Impreza 2.2, drum brakes.

I am having a heck of a time with the Lateral Link Bolt. (drawing attached)

It seems to be rusted to the bushing collar and will not budge.

With a breaker bar and a cheater, it will rotate, hard then the bushings

"give-way" and it pops. Basicly the bolt, collar and bushings are all rotating

in the rear housing. Any ideas?

At this point, short of burning out the bushings and cutting the bolt at both ends,

I am stuck. Even if  burn the bushings out, I do not think the collars will slide

through the rear housing? I have never had this apart before.

 

 

Thanks, Bill

Attached Files


Edited by billrigsby, 27 April 2014 - 03:02 PM.


#2 lmdew

lmdew

    _______

  • Members
  • 3,046 posts
  • Colorado Springs

Posted 27 April 2014 - 04:51 PM

Must not be a colorado car.  Yes you have to cut the bolt.  Easier to go to the UPull and Pay and get good rust free ones.  You could also convert to disk brakes if you wanted to.

 

I have everything you need for a swap.  Colorado Springs, CO



#3 billrigsby

billrigsby

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 62 posts
  • Florissant, CO

Posted 27 April 2014 - 05:41 PM

It actually is a CO car bought used at Hueberger (sp) in 2000 with 40K, now it is at 247K and FINALLY needs bearings.

I have thought about converting to disc, right now just need to repair ($$$). Seems you would something to balance the brakes?

An aftermarket brake proportioner?



#4 lmdew

lmdew

    _______

  • Members
  • 3,046 posts
  • Colorado Springs

Posted 28 April 2014 - 07:27 AM

Nope, I've done several conversions and they work just fine.  Everything bolts right up.

 

I take it you have soaked the link bolt and bushings for a few days before trying this?

 

Most of the time I don't have problems with CO cars getting this bolt out.  Soak it and then try it again.

 

If you need to cut the bolt, I have them.

 

Larry



#5 billrigsby

billrigsby

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 62 posts
  • Florissant, CO

Posted 28 April 2014 - 09:17 PM

Liquid Wrench  a couple times a day, I have not given up getting it out.

Its my winter car so it can sit a while.

 

You have the bolts and bushings?

 

Cost?



#6 grossgary

grossgary

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,079 posts
  • WV

Posted 28 April 2014 - 09:36 PM

yes, let is soak forever, for days, keep it always soaking at every possible entry point.  soak and wrap with wet rags if you can of the liquid wrench.

 

I wonder if you could drill a small hole all the way through the bushing so that you could slide a nail or punch all the way through it (missing the bolt of course) and lock it in place?  then you can turn the bolt without any of that stuff rotating.

 

i guess you see the bushing turning, that's why you know it's turning as well and the bolt isn't simply stripped?  if it's turning shouldn't it be unthreading still?

 

remove all the linkages from the bottom of the vehicle will get the entire assembly off the vehicle so you can work on it on a bench.

 

you could also drill it out.



#7 billrigsby

billrigsby

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 62 posts
  • Florissant, CO

Posted 29 April 2014 - 03:38 PM

Good idea to hold the bushing, No it should just slide out once the nut is off.



#8 lmdew

lmdew

    _______

  • Members
  • 3,046 posts
  • Colorado Springs

Posted 29 April 2014 - 08:17 PM

$150 and I'll give you everything you need to swap to Disk and new lateral links.

 

Larry

 

Colorado Springs.



#9 uniberp

uniberp

    mpmi

  • Members
  • 645 posts
  • Walker, MI

Posted 29 April 2014 - 10:48 PM

http://www.ultimates...sion/?p=1224291



#10 billrigsby

billrigsby

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 62 posts
  • Florissant, CO

Posted 09 July 2014 - 08:34 PM

So I am finally getting around to completing this, just took off everything as an assembly.

I am to the point of putting the hub back in and it is tight, I know it was tough getting off.

Had to use a large puller but just what kind of force should be required to press on?

I am about ready to get out the air hammer! But before I do that and go too far?

 

any advice is appreciated. 



#11 Fairtax4me

Fairtax4me

    Su bah roo'n

  • Gold Subscribers
  • 9,072 posts
  • Charlottesburg, VA

Posted 09 July 2014 - 10:11 PM

I usually grease them with axle or bearing grease and they to back together much easier.

Do not hammer on the hub as this can cause damage to the bearing.

You need a way to support the inner race of the bearing while you pull the hub in. A couple of large sockets and a really long bolt with a washer and nut on the end usually works.

#12 billrigsby

billrigsby

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 62 posts
  • Florissant, CO

Posted 10 July 2014 - 07:23 AM

I'm not sure we're talking the same item maybe I used the wrong terminology
I'm talking the part that the drum and wheel go over where the lug nuts go.
I do not see any way to pull that on using long bolts and sockets.

#13 Fairtax4me

Fairtax4me

    Su bah roo'n

  • Gold Subscribers
  • 9,072 posts
  • Charlottesburg, VA

Posted 10 July 2014 - 10:33 AM

#11 here: http://opposedforces...illustration_1/

The part with the lug studs that the wheel bolts to is the hub. It slides into the center of the wheel bearing.

If you try to hammer the hub into the bearing without supporting the inner race of the bearing it will damage the bearing.

Use a large socket that fits the inner race of the bearing. Run a long bolt through the center of the socket and the center hole of the hub. On the other end do the same with a socket that fits inside the center flange of the hub. Put a nut on the end of the bolt, then tighten the nut to pull the hub into the bearing. You'll need a high grade bolt with lots of grease on it.

If the assembly is off the car you can hammer the hub back into place but ONLY if you have a large enough socket and some blocks of wood/metal to support the inner bearing race. The entire assembly has to be sitting on top of the socket so the back half of the inner race doesn't get punched out as the hub goes in.
Do not hammer directly on the hub. Use a large socket that fits inside the center flange to hammer on.

#14 billrigsby

billrigsby

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 62 posts
  • Florissant, CO

Posted 10 July 2014 - 11:03 AM

okay I see what you're saying but with the assembly on the car,
the drive shaft is in the way of using the bolts / socket scenario.
I guess I should've put this together before putting the assembly
back on the car. I'll just pull the assembly of the car again it's quick
and easy. during disassembly I pulled the hub out first to get at the
brake backing plate because I thoughtI could get the part that holds
the bearing out, but that lower lateral bolt was frozen solid.

#15 rallynutdon

rallynutdon

    USMB is life!

  • Members
  • 137 posts
  • Reading PA

Posted 10 July 2014 - 11:51 AM

Science can be your friend. Put parts (hub) in the freezer for a couple of hours to shrink it. Works for me in many situations where things get pressed together. Not in this case, but in some, heating the opposite piece with a propane torch also helps.


Edited by rallynutdon, 10 July 2014 - 11:52 AM.


#16 Caboobaroo

Caboobaroo

    USMB Drunk

  • Members
  • 6,903 posts
  • Oregon City

Posted 10 July 2014 - 03:32 PM

I do tons of wheel bearings on Subarus. The ones I have with rust and a non moving lateral link through bolt, I just remove the knuckle with both lateral links still attached from the subframe. It seems like it might be a PITA but better then cutting and grinding and the frustration you have to deal with.

#17 billrigsby

billrigsby

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 62 posts
  • Florissant, CO

Posted 10 July 2014 - 06:58 PM

I did think about the freezing trick, I'll give that a try before I tear everything off again but its only 6 volts or so to get the whole assembly off. she's been in the garage about 3 months already so what's another few days or so its my winter car.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users