looks like it will work, it may not be the best quality one though. here my step by step process.
jack up the front end of the car and set it on a block under the crossmember, not the suspension. put the transmission in gear and yank the parking brake. take a wheel off, whichever side's axle you are replacing, lets say drivers side. pull the cotter key out of the axle nut if it has one, then take the axle nut off using the crescent wrench, you may have to slide the cheater pipe onto the wrench to get more leverage, or hit the crescent wrench with a hefty hammer. after you have the axle nut off, take off both washers underneath it, the regular one and the cone one, do NOT lose these. pop the hood, and on the side of the transmission you will see where the axle connects. look for the roll pin going through, you may have to release the parking brake and pull it out of gear in order to turn the axle to see the roll pin. use your tool of choice to force that roll pin out, i use a headless screw driver and smack it through with a hammer. now that you have the roll pin out, pull the axle off the transmission spline, and push it back towards the firewall. put just your axle nut, not the washers, back onto the end of the axle and gently hit it with a hammer, with a piece of wood between the hammer and nut, until the axle pushes through the bearings. there! your axle is out! now to install the new one, you do the opposite of all that. the only thing that is different is sometimes a new axle is difficult to force through the bearings, i just force it through far enough to get a big flat washer and the axle nut on it, then tighten that down, pulling the axle through a little more. then you back off the nut a little, and use a pair of crow bars tow pry on the washer and pull the axle through. hopefully this makes sense