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Thinking About Giving Up On My 99 Outback


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55 replies to this topic

#26 grossgary

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Posted 09 May 2014 - 09:12 PM

 I can drive it and as long as I don't push it , it goes pretty good and occasionally bucks. it does this while turning or going straight.

 

sounds like torque bind.

 

I took it in parking lot and did some real slow turns both ways and it definitely binds. ( feels like I braked ) the mechanic thought it was the passenger front axle and replaced that. the owner took it for a test drive and said it was the front diff..

 

that is torque bind.

 

Reread my previous post.

 

You are 8 bolts away from having a perfectly drivable car for free, it's definitely worth keeping. 

It'll be FWD after you remove the rear half of the driveshaft - 8 12mm bolts, that's it.  Very easy.

 

Then you can plan to repair it if you want - simply replace the center diff, which is easy and doesn't require trans removal.  Install a known good used one or buy a new one.

 

Or just drive it around in FWD and get studded snow tires in the winter.



#27 grossgary

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Posted 09 May 2014 - 09:14 PM

Um..I have a 97 Imp OBS with a 5spd and it has the fwd fuse holder under the hood. If you cant go into fwd mode with a manual then why is it there?

 

You should start another thread rather than confuse a thread for a guy who has a non-operational car that's costing him lots of money to not get fixed and mechanics are telling him it's not fixable.   The 5 speed subaru's don't have FWD fuses, so at some point someone was trying to be cute, added it, or the car has been swapped, front end clip/wrecked, etc.



#28 abog

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Posted 10 May 2014 - 09:40 AM

Roadsubie, if you are thinking of selling it as is I would be interested. I am in Reno.



#29 roadsubiedog

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Posted 10 May 2014 - 05:51 PM

gary. I will try taking off the rear drive line either tonight or tomorrow and check back in with the results.



#30 roadsubiedog

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Posted 10 May 2014 - 07:58 PM

just to be sure it is the back drive shaft about 3 foot long.??? it doesn't seem to hard . I just have to remove a heat shield and a 6 nut foot long cover and the 8 nuts.  I'll wd 40 everything and gonna try tomorrow.

 

I just want to make sure im taking the right shaft off. I couldnt find any pics in my manual or any videos on you tube.



#31 grossgary

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Posted 10 May 2014 - 07:58 PM

you'll have so many future options, what to do, what to do!?!

 

1. get studded snow tires for the winter and enjoy your free repair, for the life of the vehicle!

2. convert it to RWD for mad subaru burnouts

3. replace center diff

4. sell your mechanic/trans shop on a half day of Subaru consulting from me. $500 +air fare. (20% commission for you).



#32 grossgary

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Posted 10 May 2014 - 08:04 PM

you got it, the back 3 foot-ish section, bolts to the front flange of the rear differential and then again at the carrier bearing which is bolted with two bolts under the vehicle.

 

the front half should stay in the transmission, don't remove that.

 

may take some force but it should wedge out from between the exhaust and vehicle underbody, i've never had to remove the exhaust to get one out.

 

get some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (any auto parts store, Lowes, etc, has it).  WD40 won't really help at all. But you're out west, so you can probably sing a song and all the bolts will come out. LOL  my 1988 Subaru i had shipped from California and it's a breeeeeze to work on.  amazing.



#33 roadsubiedog

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Posted 10 May 2014 - 09:10 PM

ok, will do. anytime I attempt a repair , it takes about 3-4 times longer than the average guy. just not too experienced.



#34 johnceggleston

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 06:25 AM

Or, more accurate to this discussion, "You cannot run a normally operating (non-failed) 5spd in 2wd."

 

got it.



#35 grossgary

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 08:40 AM

got it.

 

sorry my reply reads so abrupt, was trying to be clear and concise so it didn't shift gears from the original question. doesn't read very conversational, and i'm a big JCE fan, so hope you didn't read it that way!



#36 Crazyeights

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 09:30 AM

sorry my reply reads so abrupt, was trying to be clear and concise so it didn't shift gears from the original question. doesn't read very conversational, and i'm a big JCE fan, so hope you didn't read it that way!

Thank you for "outlier" Gary.



#37 roadsubiedog

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 09:56 AM

"outlier" had to look up that word. ha ha



#38 johnceggleston

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Posted 11 May 2014 - 11:21 AM

no problems here.

as i said,

i don't understand exactly how it works,

and since i drive autos,

i don't really need to.

 

i just have to guard against giving advice on anything i don't know about,

because i tend to have an opinion on EVERYTHING.



#39 roadsubiedog

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Posted 13 May 2014 - 06:58 AM

grossgary

 

finally got back on here after some kind of server glitch.

 

the only thing I can repay you with is a laugh. took almost 4 hrs to take the rear drive shaft off. you were right about the wd40. only about 3 nuts came off with it and then had to use the pb blaster. they were still hard to break free. some I had to use a cheater.

 

plus I had to break 4 14mm bolts on a cover over the rear diff to get to the 4 back nuts on the shaft. then pry the cover down.

 

anyway, it was late in the day and had to get cleaned up for a Mother days dinner with wife so could NOT take it for a test drive. probably will have to wait till  Saturday as my workday is 14-15 hrs and I sleep rest of time.

 

"Auto Science" website has some good pics of the transmission as long as an explanation how the center diff fails. if it is my center diff, he says most of the time there are some pieces of metal in the whole transmission.

 

i'll report back after a test drive. whether this works or not , THANK YOU very much for all the help.



#40 grossgary

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Posted 14 May 2014 - 08:45 AM

good job getting it done even though it was a debacle!

the right tools, stuff, and experience help a lot.

rust belt folks have seized fasteners to deal with all the time, i'd hope to never go at those driveshaft bolts with just one normal wrench in the rust belt.

 

1. must use 6 point wrenches/sockets

2.  interlock two wrenches for leverage:

http://i200.photobuc...cs/DSCF9471.jpg

i'd never anticipate getting those nuts off with just one wrench unless it's REALLY long.

3.  use a penetrant.  ideally you spray it on the fasteners days or hours ahead of time, not just right before to allow it to soak.

on really bad ones you can soak rags in penetrant and then wrap them around the rusty parts.  have a soaked rag wrapped around those driveshaft bolt/areas for instance.

4. if you get the driveshaft positioned just right you can get 3 bolts out at one time without rotating anything, but that probably only comes with experience since there's some "give" between when you turn the wrench and the driveshaft stops and begins to loosen the nut/bolt.

 

lots of little things/experience make it go much quicker.



#41 roadsubiedog

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Posted 18 May 2014 - 09:34 AM

unfortunately, the damage must be more extensive than we thought.

 

I put it in reverse and it moved about 3 feet and then clunk, and then nothing. the front drive shaft rotates a little bit off and on even in neutral.

 

when I put it in any gear , the front drive shaft is moving but the car doesn't. oh well. it was worth the try.



#42 blk99obs

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Posted 18 May 2014 - 06:30 PM

You should start another thread rather than confuse a thread for a guy who has a non-operational car that's costing him lots of money to not get fixed and mechanics are telling him it's not fixable.   The 5 speed subaru's don't have FWD fuses, so at some point someone was trying to be cute, added it, or the car has been swapped, front end clip/wrecked, etc.

Or it could be that they use the same wiring harness on both cars, and just use the features needed depending on what features that car calls for. For example, a 99 impreza-auto uses the same body as a 99impreza-manual, they just added and took away different components to accommodate the different drivetrains.



#43 blk99obs

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Posted 18 May 2014 - 06:41 PM

unfortunately, the damage must be more extensive than we thought.

 

I put it in reverse and it moved about 3 feet and then clunk, and then nothing. the front drive shaft rotates a little bit off and on even in neutral.

 

when I put it in any gear , the front drive shaft is moving but the car doesn't. oh well. it was worth the try.

I would replace the transmission with a junkyard unit. I got a used 99 outback tranny for my car a couple years ago, with rear differential for $500, and its been fine. They offered me one with less miles for 800, with a warranty, but I didn't have the money to spare at the time. If you can pull the tailshaft, thats half the battle of ganking the whole tranny. I'd just get a used one, and put it in there yourself. I came from Hondas, and had never worked on Subies before, but I put in my tranny, rear diff, new clutch, flywheel, etc. no problem in a couple days, and I've driven it to Canada and back, and otherwise beaten the piss out of it offroad, without any trans issues. You could probably do the whole thing over a weekend for less than a grand, and maybe a grand and change if you wanted to do a clutch while you're at it. Its really not that hard.


Edited by blk99obs, 18 May 2014 - 06:42 PM.


#44 roadsubiedog

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Posted 18 May 2014 - 06:55 PM

blk99obs

 

you did that without pulling the engine? I don't think I have the expertise to do it myself. how far off the ground would I have to lift the car?

 

btw. I took the rear drive shaft on the hope that it was my center diff was bad but apparently its the front diff. thanks for the suggestion. im on vacation for the next 2 weeks and live close to Reno so I can do some snooping around.



#45 roadsubiedog

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Posted 21 May 2014 - 01:59 PM

anybody want to do an insurance job,? ( only kidding, big brother )



#46 AdventureSubaru

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Posted 21 May 2014 - 02:22 PM

I've done 2 5 speed replacements in the last few months. It's a little bit of a chore, but it's not very technical.

 

http://www.rs25.com/...-pictorial.html

 

This is a very good write up that includes clutch and pilot bearing replacement if you so choose. Everything should be the same as your outback except you may have a clutch cable instead of a slave cylinder. (Which I found even simpler.)  I did mine without the luxury of a transmission jack. You can open the front doors and wrap a few ratcheting straps to hoist it. I muscled it onto the front subframe, tied it off so it wouldn't fall, then jacked it up from behind with a few floor jacks.



#47 grossgary

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Posted 21 May 2014 - 02:36 PM

Or it could be that they use the same wiring harness on both cars, and just use the features needed depending on what features that car calls for. For example, a 99 impreza-auto uses the same body as a 99impreza-manual, they just added and took away different components to accommodate the different drivetrains.

 

i'm very aware of that, but in this case it's not the case, the manuals do not have FWD fuse holders.

the possibility of it being an outlier is more rare than some other reason so it's unlikely.

 

unfortunately, the damage must be more extensive than we thought.

 

I put it in reverse and it moved about 3 feet and then clunk, and then nothing. the front drive shaft rotates a little bit off and on even in neutral.

 

when I put it in any gear , the front drive shaft is moving but the car doesn't. oh well. it was worth the try.

 

so now you can buy a failed VLSD center diff, install it, and run it in RWD instead. LOL

 

yah, front differential binding means you need another transmission. 

www.car-part.com

or classified section here

 

save the center diff if you do swap transmissions.

 

was the gear oil ever changed?



#48 roadsubiedog

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Posted 21 May 2014 - 05:28 PM

adventure Subaru: that is an excellent picture tutorial that I will keep forever.

 

gary: thanks. going to reno tomorrow to talk to a couple shops.



#49 NV Zeno

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Posted 22 May 2014 - 02:20 PM

Road:  "Independent Automotive" on Bergin way (just off Mc Carran/80, might be Sparks over there).  Those guys are great with older Subes, prob the best I've seen in Reno.

 

Unless of course you'd like to try Norm's up here in Tahoe...



#50 roadsubiedog

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Posted 22 May 2014 - 07:15 PM

independent quoted me 2500-4000 for my headgasket job 5 years ago. thanks but no thanks. I bought a 97 legacy from a couple at southlake that used Norms. they are very pricey too. ( but I appreciate the heads up ) there is a place that does headgasket jobs on / off greg that does them for about 1200. keys speed or something like that.

 

my guy in truckee recommended Trans Craft in Reno but he quoted me 1000-1800 or more for the tranny job. not gonna give a guy a blank check. going to talk to a couple more shops.

 

I can wait for a good deal since we have good back up vehicles.






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