It's inevitable...my weber questions. =\

[l75eya]

So, it was inevitable. I've been living by Jes Zek's guide ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/ ) as well as Kanury's excellent section ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/110926-seshs-1987-gl-build-thread/page-2?hl=sesh ) in his build thread, and this other thread ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/126083-weber-carb-for-my-87-gl/page-3 ) while going through my swap.

I am missing a few answers I need though..

 

Basically I'm wondering...what's this? This big black box by the distributor is on the driver's side of the engine and has a large diameter vac line that heads up to where to old air box was.
What is it and what can I do with it?

 

My next question is the same, but for a different part


This is on the pass. side of the motor. Right above the transmission. Has another very large (pictured) diam. vac line that went to the original air box.
What is it and what can I do with it?

and then, traveling back to the driver's side of the intake manifold, on the rear side of it is this switch with 1 brown/orange wire attached.



I honestly don't remember why I wanted to ask what this was. I'm sure I will when i get back to work on the car tomorrow though. Could you guys please tell me what this is and if it is a necessary component, or something that can be removed.

Next up is a multi part question about this thermo-vac switch.


This guy is on the pass side and from it's 3 ports it connects to a spaghetti like series of vac ports.
As you can see, most of my caps went to it's ports. I want to get rid of it ENTIRELY. Is this possible?

I'm pretty sure I tracked the metal lines that come from it and go under the intake manifold pretty well, and I'm fairly certain on of it's lines is what the vac advance off the distributor connects to.

I plan on connecting the vac advance to the assigned port for it on the Weber when it's on.

if I cap off the three ports on the switch itself, will I be able to remove all these metal lines easily without removing the intake manifold?

Pretty sure the switch with the brown wire actuated some type of vac connection I've already removed and that's why I want to get rid of the switch but idk

I can't BELIEVE how much stuff I've gotten rid of. It's great! I plan to only have basically
Vac. Advance
Brake Booster
HVAC
PCV valve....

That's it I think! And that pleases me greatly.

I was GOING to keep the EGR valve, but it was connected to that thing on the fenderwell, and mine has been malfunctioning for years, so I decided to get rid of it and threw the delete plate on today as well.

Can't wait to get everything together!

[TallonX]

Air suction valves, actually tied to the exhaust, should be able to search the forum for the delete

[l75eya]

Will get to searching on that. ASV for short I see.

Any ideas on whether it's a bad idea to just keep it open? (aside from the noise)

 

Edit: update. YES, there is a side effect to leaving the asv lines open; backfiring. At least in my case. I have a pretty free flowing exhaust no cat, big muffler, and the backfiring was getting ridiculous. Closing up those asvs took care of it completely.

Edited May 23, 2014 by l75eya

[l75eya]

Answered my own question about the thermo vac switch in post #46 of Kanury's engine thread linked above.

[l75eya]

What I've gathered so far is that the 2nd picture I have posted is the ASV "Air pump"
As djellum very thoroughly explains in post #15 here: ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138962-just-a-thought/ )

 

 

the ASV is simply an air pump that puts extra air into the exhaust.
 look up air injection on wiki or something, that is what it is.  it
took filtered air from the airbox and injected it into your exhaust
manifold so that your catalytic would be fed both unburnt fuel and raw
air so that it could do its thing.  my suspicion since in the older
times they only put them on california emissions cars is that it was
simply diluting the reading at the tailpipe.  the reason for deleting it
is that if any part of it leaks, which its prone to do, then it becomes
an exhaust leak.  It was causing afterfires when I shifted due to leaky
baffles.  it wont hurt or help power, its neutral and only related to
emissions.  for most of us the reason we want these cars is simplicity
and reliability, so for that sake we simply remove unneeded
complication.

 

the PCV system allows for 2 things, the release of pressure in the
crankcase, and the removal of gasses that make it by your piston rings.
 those gasses can be corrosive and harmful to your engine long term
(they are a big reason for your oil breaking down).  having the heads
open to the air will solve the pressure issue, but not the removal of
gasses, thats why you have a PCV valve.  the PCV will open to the
manifold and the engine vacuum will pull out the gasses to burn them.

 

The asv's mount to the exhaust manifold, right at the head, and then
at the air box, but not to the PCV.  the PCV will intake air at the top
of the passenger side head and will need a breather cap.  the air will
travel through the motor and exit out the top of the drivers side head.
 that hose will go to the PCV valve on the back of the manifold under
the carb.  you will want an inline T fitting between the drivers head
and the PCV valve.  some people leave it open, and others hook it to the
air cleaner.  its just to reduce some of the suction so you dont pull
raw oil into the manifold.

I now have a decent understanding of the ASV system. I still don't know if my first picture above of that more triangular black box is part of the ASV system as well.

[djellum]

both of those plastic containers are part of the ASV system.  there are 2 ASV valves on the back side of the motor, one on each side.  they go to those plastic chambers and then to the air box.I think the boxes are for sound, but either way they are useless if you remove or disable the system, and if you keep the system just put a breather cap or hook them to the filter.

 

you really can't get all the metal lines off of the manifold with it on the car, but all of them will be useless so you can dremel them off or something to get them out of the way more.  

 

when you hook up the dist you have to make sure its on ported vacuum.  use your finger or tongue to plug the hose and rev the engine.  if the vacuum gets stronger with rpms then its ported.  the port on the weber is likely right but you will want to verify.

[l75eya]

Thanks DJ, that takes care of my first two questions. Still remains

 

What's up with the sensor/whatever I have photographed in the third pic with the brown/orange wire?

And a confirmation on the ease of removal of that spiderweb of metal vac lines coming off the thermo-vac switch.

I'm pretty sure the metal lines are removable as I saw a picture of Jes-Zek's intake manifold with that part removed.

[rrgrr]

I am curious about that switch, too...

 

i went mercilessly at all those metal lines with cutters where I had to, I think  there were 3 bolts holding them to the mani. The a/c idle holder probably will not line up either, might as well delete that if you haven't. 

[l75eya]

Pretty much all done. Gotta hook up throttle linkage and get a couple breather lines set up.

Weber ea82:

 

Cell phone video makes the car sound like a cammed out big block 8 lol.

 

Fired right up. Little bit of running and sounds good. No bogs. Smooth. Very happy.

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

I'm Glad that you find my Writeup, Helpful.

 

... I've been living by Jes Zek's guide ( http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/ ) ... while going through my swap.

... I am missing a few answers I need though. ...

 

Not exactly "Missing" answers, because I wrote that you could get Rid of Everything else that is not on the List of parts that shall stay, for proper function of the PCV system; now I believe that I must edit my Writeup on the PCV connections' area, to emphasize that by "Get Rid of Everything Else", includes the ASV "Black Boxes" for sure.   

 

 

...I'm pretty sure the metal lines are removable as I saw a picture of Jes-Zek's intake manifold with that part removed.

 

Yes, They're Removable. I even removed the A/C actuator...

 

Some of the 3/16" ports at the intake were removed and welded close with aluminium as well, but the few rest, were capped with Rubber Caps for vacuums.

 

Kind Regards.

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

... now I believe that I must edit my Writeup on the PCV connections' area, to emphasize that by "Get Rid of Everything Else", includes the ASV "Black Boxes" for sure.   ...

 

 

The Editing is already Done.

 

Kind Regards.

[rdweninger]

I remember having to remove my intake manifold to get at the fasteners so I could delete the spiderweb of metal vacuum lines.   Now would be a good time for new the intake gaskets.   Careful on the removal of the 6 bolts holding down the intake... sometimes, they like to snap off.   I replaced mine with stainless steel bolts.  The old ones were very corrided

On the orange/brown wire... looks like it is just one wire going to your temp sensor for the dash gauge.  You want this.

Congrats on the Weber.   I have had mine in my '85 wagon since 1993.   I have never had to do any adjustment or work to it.   Just clean the filter every now & then.

[l75eya]

Running great when warm. Terrible when cold. Terrible. Thankfully my car warms up quickly. Thinking of adjusting the choke so it's not fully closed when on cold idle cam. Definitely running too rich.

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

Do you know the size of the Main Fuel Jets on your Weber?

 

My "BumbleBeast" does not have a Choke, and still works good when cool! ... But our cool climates never gets too cool... minimum temps gets here to ~ 50º F, During December and January only... so maybe your Weber could have a too "big" Low (Primary) jet.

 

My Weber has 140 in Low (Primary Stage) and 162 in High (Secondary Stage)

 

But Also, has you already advanced the ignition Timing to ~ 20º? 

Edit: works better @ 15º

 

maybe it isn't properly set, yet.

 

Kind Regards.

Edited October 11, 2020 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

[l75eya]

I honestly have no idea what the jet sizes are. It was a kit for Datsuns. Its also a north american built weber (black choke housing).

I have advanced the timing but my timing light was commandeered by my brother so I don't know the exact number i'm at.

 

All I know is that when the motor is cool it runs terrible. Like missing and smoking out the exhaust. As soon as it's warmed up, it's perfectly smooth.

[TallonX]

Sounds overly choked

[djellum]

the top butterfly shouldn't be fully closed.  activate the choke when its cold but don't start it.  loosen and twist the choke housing until it has a gap between the housing and the top butterfly. i cant remember the actual measurement but just make sure there is a gap and it should be a starting point. 

[l75eya]

That's exactly what I was thinking. I'll probably give the choke an adjustment later today. I have to give some attention to the throttle linkage as well as it's too tight (it's very difficult to give very little throttle) and it occasionally sticks a slight bit. Not cool.

[ferox]

I know I sound like a broken record about this, but you should always verify your jetting especially if you are pulling a carb off a different application. 

 

There is no excuse for not checking your primary and secondary idle jets since they are easily accessible from the exterior of the carb with just a standard screwdriver. 

 

Your primary idle jet is going to have a much bigger impact on idle quality versus the mains.

[l75eya]

Definitely good advice. Is there a number stamped on the jet? How can I tell?

[l75eya]

Double post.

Edited May 15, 2014 by l75eya

[djellum]

yes it should be stamped, but some times it will just be a designation not a measurement so you may have to look it up.

[Señor Brat]

Look into the Quarter trick to block off the ASV's

[hatchsub]

Jets should be 140/140 mains for a stock application.  If your modified you may have to go up a bit in jet size.  it is stamped on the jets.  

[l75eya]

Weber install complete: