Starlite Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 (edited) Hello i have a superstation with some engine problems. The engine is hard to start when warm and when runs the idle is very low , the engine shakes. Have checket and found these codes flashing. 21. Coolant temperature sensor or circuit 32. Oxygen sensor or circuit (no. 1, right side on SVX) 33. Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) or circuit 42. Idle switch or circuit 51. Neutral switch (manual transmission)/inhibitor switch (automatic transmission) the only code i know is the oxygen sensor,going to buy a Bosch universal sensor this week. But what is the rest? Edited May 11, 2014 by Starlite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Coolant temperature sensor is often linked to difficult starting when warm. Replace that with a good one and you'll probably have the starting issue solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starlite Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 Any know the part number on the coolant temperature sensor Having trouble finding the right one I have only found one with one cable, mine has two of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starlite Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 I have change the coolant sensor I think? I also change the lamda sensor. Butt still i getting faulty code 21 and 32. I have also cheked the compression and getting theese readings. Upper left 10 Bar Lower left 11 Bar Upper right 13 Bar(This cylinder had some carbon on the sparkplug or maby it was overheated) Lower right 11 Bar I also belive the cylinderhead is cracked or the head gasket is broke because it leaks water. I dont see any leak butt it runs porly and when i open the coolant expansion cap i see bubbles. The oil looks good to. This is the sensor i changed. What are these two sensors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 the first of the two pics is your temperature gauge sender unit - try disconnecting it and see no result or change on the gauge on dash the second pic is the controller for afm metered air to bypass the throttle body butterfly for a faster idle. I think it uses the heat from the thermostat housing to regulate it. The next gen vrsion of this unit was remote, not on any heat device, think it was a timer system - seen on spider manifold EA82's It may not be the sensors themselves that cause the error codes. It may be corrosion of wires in connector plugs or a bad earth on inlet manifold. The the black earth wires with brass eye behind the throttle body.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starlite Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Find out it was a blown headgasket I have removed the camshaft on the distributor side and wondering if it makes any different how I put the camshaft back? Or is there any markings on the sprockets , camshaft and distributor? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 (edited) You have the turbo engine. That last photo regulates the cold idle. The temperature sensor you want to change/check is located on one of the intake runners. Edit: You changed the correct coolant sensor. Didn't see that photo. Does sound like a blown gasket/cracked cylinder head. Someone will post a link to how to time the timing belts. Edited July 16, 2014 by john in KY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starlite Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 I want to know how to set the camshaft and the distributor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 ''setting the cam shaft is at the belt install stage. The cam and its belt sprocket have a mating pin that lines them up - fool proof at this point, then you need to check reference points of TDC on flywheel with where rotor in dizzy points with other reference marks on belt puleys and all in relation to #1 being at TDC. The dizzy might be out 180 deg after timing belt install Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Houston505 Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 89 problems and a switch ain't one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 Align crank to TDC on Compression stroke. This will put the drivers side (left on car) cam dot 45% downward and out.....about 4:30 on the clock dial. Then align small dot on distributor drive gear with small tab on distributor shaft. Drop straight in without rotating until gear contact.....then let it rotate slightly as it fully engage. Oh yeah....Give your fuel pump a Fresh new wire for ground to body.......original grounds through small transitor in ECU and gets weak......causes low fuel pressure......weird hard starts......poor acceleration. Provide new ground (-) to pump and ECU will still control +12v through relay. Only on MPFI ea82s set up with ground through ECU....dumb. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starlite Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 Well you guys don't seem to understand what I trying explain so I will take a picture later this day You all talking about belt timing when I talking to set the distributor right in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 (edited) sorry, my bad, reading and posting when I should be asleep most likely. Was trying to answer #6. really trying to say why didn't you say so ? There is a certain process that needs to be followed, and if you have it all back together and just need to fit the dizzy to complete engine assembly ? yeah ? Better let someone else take over here if this is the case. My foolproof method was for Series one. Series 2 with optical - I marked everything on pull down, noting which cyl was on TDC - can tell by looking at both cam wheels and their locating pins? holes and marks - always opposite each other. Dizzy needs to land in centrally between lock down bolts and here where I get stuck coz I misplaced my notes. But, take a squiz at the dizzy, really can only go in one way, and you want it to end up pretty equally central between the lock down bolts. Just sample it first, see which way and by how much the rotor turns as you seat the dizzy. I visualise the 1 i penned inside the dizzy on the metal plate disc below rotor button. If you stand at front bumper, look at dizzy, #1 is about between 1 and 2 o'clock 1 may be on dizzy cap casting I move crank from #1 TDC to the 20 DBTDC mark, make dizzy rotor point just before at caps #1 spot, spins anti clock. Then it might just start Edited July 17, 2014 by jono Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starlite Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 (edited) Well you guys don't seem to understand what I trying explain so I will take a picture later this day You all talking about belt timing when I talking to set the distributor right in place. I understand......But you have to set the Timing belts to a certain point FIRST.... Then with Timing belts on.....and engine at TDC #1.........THEN you align dot on Distributor gear to mark on it's body.......And then install disty like that. Align crank to TDC on Compression stroke. This will put the drivers side (left on car) cam dot 45% downward and out.....about 4:30 on the clock dial. Then align small dot on distributor drive gear with small tab on distributor shaft. Drop DISTRIBUTOR straight in without rotating until gear contact.....then let it rotate slightly as the gear fully engage. Edited July 17, 2014 by Gloyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdMobile Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 (edited) Instead of using the dots on the distributor, I've always set the flywheel to TDC compression stroke of cylinder #1 at 0 Degrees (put finger over spark plug hole to feel for compression as opposed to no compression on exhaust stroke), then taken the cap off the disty and moved the rotor to point to #1 plug wire position while checking/fine tuning angle with cap on/off. I then drop disty into hole with the bolt hole centered on the oval slot, compensating slightly for helical rotation angle of the gear. I've done this half a dozen times, it's always super easy and always fires right up - though in need of timing. Edited July 17, 2014 by BirdMobile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starlite Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 Well the engine is running but I have to high idle and sometimes it's hard to start the engine. I believe the coolant temp sensor is bad. I have tried with a new one, not original. Where can I get an original temp sensor? The Subaru in Sweden can't help me they don't even found the sensor in their lists. One more thing can I adjust the idle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Check timing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starlite Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 Timing checked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starlite Posted September 12, 2014 Author Share Posted September 12, 2014 Rpm is constantly on 1000. When i start it goes up to 2000 for a while. It takes 1.1 liters on 10km = 21.38 miles per gallon Is this normal consumption? sometimes the rpm goes down to 500 and the engines runs uneven, and seconds after it goues up to 1000 rpm. When i trying to drive slow on first gear it will stumble and twitch, Have changed cooling sensor (Not genuine part) Sparkplugs NGK Ignitioncables (Not genuine part) Rotor and dissy. (Not genuine part) oxygen sensor. (Not genuine part) Bosch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starlite Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 Anyone who know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Are you still getting error codes? Check the engine wiring harness carefully. I have found a wire broken inside it's insulation, and on another, a wire rubbed 1/2 way through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starlite Posted September 22, 2014 Author Share Posted September 22, 2014 No codes Today I noticed a old problem The engine have start to spitt water from the exhaust system again And the coolant box was almost empty Wt hell I have installed new gaskets and all was fine until now 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 Rpm is constantly on 1000. When i start it goes up to 2000 for a while. It takes 1.1 liters on 10km = 21.38 miles per gallon Is this normal consumption? sometimes the rpm goes down to 500 and the engines runs uneven, and seconds after it goues up to 1000 rpm. When i trying to drive slow on first gear it will stumble and twitch, Have changed cooling sensor (Not genuine part) Sparkplugs NGK Ignitioncables (Not genuine part) Rotor and dissy. (Not genuine part) oxygen sensor. (Not genuine part) Bosch. Check your new spark plugs. I had a similar problem and when I checked my brand new spark plugs I found one was dysfunctional and had bad carbon build up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 No codes Today I noticed a old problem The engine have start to spitt water from the exhaust system again And the coolant box was almost empty Wt hell I have installed new gaskets and all was fine until now Cracked head. Not the regular little between teh valves but actually in the Exhaust port. Coolant drips directly into exhaust. The turbo EA82 engines all do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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