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Legacy 2.5L DOHC EJ25D - Just put timing belt back on. Trying to rotate crank clockwise - springy resistance. is this right?

legacy EJ25D EJ25 DOHC timing timing belt crankshaft

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13 replies to this topic

#1 kevinrse

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Posted 17 May 2014 - 04:04 PM

I just finished putting my new timing belt on. Checked cam & crank sprocket position markings carefully per Haynes manual, pulled tensioner pin, then checked marks again and counted teeth between sprockets just to make sure all was right.

 

The Haynes manual advises turning the crank clockwise at least 2 full revolutions by hand, prior to starting engine, to make sure all is well. I encountered a springy resistance at a little less than half a turn of the crankshaft. (Requires increasing force with rotation, I gave it up to maybe 40-60 foot-pounds before stopping for fear I'd break something).

 

I don't recall feeling this resistance when I was turning the crank with the old belt installed. Did I do something wrong? Should I be worried? Note that I turned cam sprockets back and forth some while belt was removed---removed & replaced them all to replace cam seals. But as I said above, I'm certain the new timing belt is positioned correctly relative to all sprockets.


Edited by kevinrse, 17 May 2014 - 05:18 PM.


#2 lmdew

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Posted 17 May 2014 - 10:15 PM

No you should not  be hitting  anything.  Are  you sure the Crank back tooth was properly aligned?  It's not the arrow on the front of the gear but the tick mark on the rear tooth.

 

Hopefully you did not bend any valves.



#3 forester2002s

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Posted 17 May 2014 - 10:45 PM

As each piston reaches TDC, you'll feel resistance as you turn the crankshaft. And as the piston passes TDC, the resistance disappears and the crank turns suddenly on its own.

 

Take all spark plugs out, and the crankshaft should turn freely.



#4 kevinrse

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Posted 18 May 2014 - 07:06 PM

@ lmdew, yes, it's lined up with mark on rear tooth:

 

A

 

(You can see the arrow on the face of the gear too, located 90 degrees clockwise relative to rear tooth mark). Did I do this right?

 

@Forester2002s, I thought this resistance was from the pistons passing TDC.... but the resistance just seems too high. I haven't tried turning it "past" that resistance---because I was afraid I'd done something wrong. The resistance has only increased for as far as I've dared turn the crank.

 

I also have a "feel" for the spring resistance when turning to TDC position, because I had to wrestle the left-side (drivers side) cam sprockets into aligned position for putting the belt back on. This resistance just feels significantly stronger than the amount of muscle needed to rotate cam sprockets individually---even after accounting for added resistance of turning multiple sprockets at once with the belt reinstalled.

 

I guess I'm still stuck here... anyone with advice on what to do next?



#5 darsdoug

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Posted 18 May 2014 - 09:18 PM

This might help.Attached File  2.5Timing.pdf   662.96K   19 downloads



#6 86BRATMAN

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Posted 18 May 2014 - 10:28 PM

It shouldn't take that much force to rotate the motor at this point. If it were me I'd put the crank back to its timing mark, quadruple check every mark and go from there. The dohc motors can be a pain when it comes to timing belts.

#7 kevinrse

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Posted 19 May 2014 - 12:41 AM

I forgot to mention to @forester2002s that my plugs are out.... so it should turn freely, afaik.

 

@darsdoug, thanks---this gave me some confidence that I got the alignment marks right, but doesn't mention turning crankshaft through 2 revolutions. I am worried though since it did turn freely before.

 

The PDF also mentions that a valve interference/collision might result from the left side cam sprockets spinning around quickly when old timing belt released, from compressed springs releasing. This did happen, and startle me, when I took the old belt off---the Haynes manual didn't mention it and I didn't know to expect it. Could this have bent a valve? If so could that have resulted in the resistance I'm feeling now?

 

@86BRATMAN, not sure if I understand you right---you're saying it shouldn't take that much force to rotate---but that I should proceed anyways after verifying the marks are aligned right? I'm kinda worried about this resistance, so reluctant to proceed without some more assurance that it is OK (or that it could be the result of somehow damaging things, and what to do in that event)...



#8 lmdew

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Posted 19 May 2014 - 05:57 AM

If the plugs are out it should spin freely.  There is  no compression so you are just turning against the spring pressure of the valves which is not much.

 

Is the motor out of the car?

 

A leak down check would confirm a bent valve but it's very hard to do if the engine is in the car.



#9 86BRATMAN

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Posted 19 May 2014 - 08:33 AM

Right, do not try any more to rotate it. I had an incident when timing one of these, when going to rotate the engine after timing it, that the tensioner hadn't fully extended and it allowed the crank to turn several degrees without the driver's side intake came turning at all.

#10 MilesFox

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Posted 19 May 2014 - 09:40 AM

It is possible the valves are colliding if the cams are out of phase to eachother. be sure to use the proper marks. a cam can only be rotated during belt assembly if the other cam is not spring with any valves open. When the camps line up in phase, th one cam will have open valves. It is ok to rotate the cam backwards to line it up. Avoid rotating the crank backwards.



#11 Fairtax4me

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Posted 19 May 2014 - 10:13 AM

Is it a manual trans? Is it in gear?

#12 kevinrse

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Posted 19 May 2014 - 12:36 PM

@Fairtax4me, ding ding ding, we have a winner. I had the car in gear. Feel a bit dumb now, but problem solved.... thanks all!  :wacko:



#13 86BRATMAN

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Posted 19 May 2014 - 01:20 PM

At least it was something completely simple.

#14 Fairtax4me

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Posted 19 May 2014 - 08:39 PM

I can usually tell when the car starts moving. Happens all the time.





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: legacy, EJ25D, EJ25, DOHC, timing, timing belt, crankshaft

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