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Ej22 Engine pull to replace all gaskets, Seals, timing belt, et al

ej22 timing belt oil seals

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8 replies to this topic

#1 pa_trick

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Posted 19 May 2014 - 09:48 PM

The Basics: 1993 Legacy Wagon. 2.2 engine with 109k on it. Automatic transmission. AWD.

 

So we pulled the engine using the instructions from http://beergarage.com/ and YouTubes from the MercedesDieselGuy. The instructions we all good, but Beergarage was pulling a Stick shift and the Videos were great but glossed over a few points that I NOW know. I need advise on two different points.

 

1. One of the things that I missed in pulling it apart was removing the 4 bolts that hold the flywheel to the torque converter. When we pull it apart the TC was still attached to the Flywheel. Before we reassembled, I pull the TC off and then feed it back onto the transmission spindle and rotated it until is seated all the way back on the spindle.After getting it all back together and turning the engine over for the timing test, a big puddle of ATF appeared on the floor...... HELP

 

2. After: carefully getting the crank shaft spindle lined up on the TDC mark; AND both cam spindles lined up on the top center marks on the cover; AND getting the timing belt marks all lined up on the spindles and marks; AND all the of the engine put back together - We cranked it over and it would not start. We rechecked all the wiring plugs and hose connections and tried again. Still no luck. What am I missing?????

 

Thanks in advance for your HELP!

Patrick 



#2 lmdew

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Posted 19 May 2014 - 10:12 PM

you may have damage the TC input shaft seal.  The bad part is you will have to pull the trans to replace it.

 

Make sure you used the tick mark on the back crank tooth instead of the arrow on the front of the crank gear.  

 

Common error



#3 pa_trick

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Posted 19 May 2014 - 11:28 PM

I will check out the TC seal. Thanks!   I get that I will have to pull it all again, but I am getting really good at that.

 

The marks we are using are:

- The #1 on the tooth at the back of the crank spindle and lining it up to the tick mark just under the tack sensor directly above it.

- The paint marked tick on the front of both cam spindles to the notch in the plastic back cover on both sides.



#4 Fairtax4me

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Posted 19 May 2014 - 11:49 PM

Possibly the input seal on the trans got shredded. Easy to do with the sharp corners on the TC pump drive. Make sure you didn't just cut one of the ATF cooler lines from the trans to the radiator before pulling the engine again.

No-start problem... Did you make sure the cam sprockets didnt get mixed up when you removed them to replace the cam seals? Drivers sprocket has notches on the back for the cam position sensor. No cam sensor signal = no start.

#5 tedbull

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Posted 20 May 2014 - 11:43 PM

Possibly the input seal on the trans got shredded. Easy to do with the sharp corners on the TC pump drive. Make sure you didn't just cut one of the ATF cooler lines from the trans to the radiator before pulling the engine again.

No-start problem... Did you make sure the cam sprockets didnt get mixed up when you removed them to replace the cam seals? Drivers sprocket has notches on the back for the cam position sensor. No cam sensor signal = no start.

 

+ 1. I just did this, got the cam sprockets swapped around and no start. Had to pull apart and do again.



#6 pa_trick

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Posted 24 May 2014 - 05:41 PM

Well here is an interesting thing about the cam sprockets on this engine, if you look carefully then you will see that the have a L or R on them. And yes they were back word. So we swapped the sprockets. Got all of the line-up points lined up with the new belt on with tensioners all set (but tensionor piston still locked with a hold back pin). We tried the start test again and it STILL IS NOT STARTING



#7 pa_trick

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Posted 24 May 2014 - 06:48 PM

On a further note. One of the teeth on the Crank shaft shaft sprocket (the middle one) looks to be broken off. will this cause any issues or might this be related to this issue?



#8 Fairtax4me

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Posted 24 May 2014 - 09:05 PM

Yes, any broken teeth on the outside of the crank sprocket will cause it to not start.

#9 grossgary

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Posted 24 May 2014 - 10:37 PM

if by "teeth" you mean the triggers - yes it won't start.  those are what the crank sensor uses, so yes that's your no start issue.

 

weld the broken piece off if you can find it or just get a used one, post in the classified section here.  i have some 95+ sprockets.

 

if you mean "teeth" as in the teeth on the sprocket the belt goes around, no immediate issue but i'd file down the edges so they're not sharp and gouging the belt every revolution.







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