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AC Compressor Clutch?


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8 replies to this topic

#1 JEBalles

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Posted 05 June 2014 - 02:06 PM

I think my compressor clutch needs to be replaced on my '89 GL. Last May, I was attempting to use the AC, and it gradually began cutting out sooner and sooner after turning it on. I've watched the pulley right after it turns on and I can see the clutch trying to engage, but after ten seconds or so, it gives up and releases the clutch.

 

Is this indeed the clutch that is the problem? Or could it be something else? The compressor turns by hand (albeit, not easily, but I'm not too familiar with how easy it should be). And if it is, where can I find a new clutch?

 

Unrelated note, if anyone has a spare crankshaft pulley lying around or on a parts car, I could really use it.



#2 l75eya

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Posted 05 June 2014 - 03:06 PM

Sounds like it needs a charge. There are sensors that will disengage the compressor if the ac charge is low.

#3 czny

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Posted 05 June 2014 - 03:44 PM

Yeah, sounds like its low on freon.

Low side pressure falls below the set point of the triple switch cutting out the compressor. Switch is in the line from the condenser to filter/dryer bottle.



#4 JEBalles

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Posted 05 June 2014 - 08:26 PM

Well, shucks, I'm glad I asked. I assume it's R12? Should I convert to R134a or try to find R12? I'm looking for the cheapest option, but I'd like to do it right.



#5 czny

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Posted 05 June 2014 - 09:13 PM

Well, shucks, I'm glad I asked. I assume it's R12? Should I convert to R134a or try to find R12? I'm looking for the cheapest option, but I'd like to do it right.

There are at least two other threads in the '80s part of this forum asking much the same questions.

And links to other reading. Big green button in right hand corner top of page........


Edited by czny, 05 June 2014 - 09:14 PM.


#6 l75eya

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Posted 06 June 2014 - 08:30 PM

Converting is a bit of a job. You need to install new o-rings at every coupling in the a/c lines.

Then you need to evacuate the system of r-12. Then you're SUPPOSED to run some type of cleaner through it.

I converted my system in a very ghetto manner last summer. I threw new o-rings in the easy to get to lines, and I filled it with the new stuff. It worked, but leaked out of the high side sensor eventually and haven't bothered with it again yet.

 



#7 JEBalles

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Posted 12 June 2014 - 06:25 PM

Fair enough. After my reading, I think I'd like to do the conversion if the materials aren't too expensive since I have the time. I can't, however, find kits or anything online with all the materials. Do they sell them separately? Here's my ideal plan:

 

-find a shop to recover any R12 left in the system (if there is any and it's not outrageously expensive)

-replace all the gaskets, o-rings, accumulator/drier and lines with parts that are compatible with R134a as well as install the R134a port fittings

-recharge the system

 

Are there any parts/steps I'm missing? I read stuff about having to flush the system and whatnot that I wasn't quite clear with. I read if you use ester oil, it's okay if there's some R12 mineral oil still in the system. Thoughts and cost estimates?



#8 czny

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Posted 12 June 2014 - 08:32 PM

Removing the residual oil & contaminants is a good idea if you want the conversion to last. Access to an air compressor to blow out the remaining solvents is a must.

 

Here's some reading:

http://www.e38.org/p...sh/flushing.htm

and

http://www.aa1car.co...ry/retrofit.htm

 

http://www.4s.com/Up...EM FLUSHING.PDF

 

And here's some shameless product promotion for ester oils, dyes, etc by Car Quest :lol: :

http://www.carquestp...ONDITIONING.PDF


Edited by czny, 12 June 2014 - 08:34 PM.


#9 JEBalles

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Posted 13 June 2014 - 05:24 PM

Does anyone know where to get new lines? I read that I can buy a bunch of generic o-rings and use those for the fittings.

 

And should I remove the valve stems in the existing ports or should I replace them? I took the cap off the low pressure side and I could hear hissing.






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