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Posted 07 June 2014 - 06:17 PM
Posted 07 June 2014 - 07:31 PM
The 2.2 is considered bullet proof.
Non-interference so somewhat lax maintenance and a broken timing belt won't mash up the engine. I stand corrected by the masters.
Enough power for the Impreza footprint. Auto is just fine for me as I am past the boy racer stage.
If the Impreza fits your needs size-wise, then why buy the larger Outbacks and Legacys? They will just cost you more to run.
Hope I don't sound too much like your dad but that is what I'd advise my daughter/son if asked. Just sayin'...
Edited by brus brother, 08 June 2014 - 09:13 AM.
Posted 07 June 2014 - 09:03 PM
I scored a 96 impreza outback wagon for 800 bucks. It shows new struts and tire rotations in history, 165,000 mi, no rust as a western car. Drove it home 50 miles. It will need brakes, but for what i got it for, and its condition, it is easily worth 1500 bucks, if it weren't for the fact the stereo is missing ad the wiring is a hack job. This was an automatic trans. even for 1200 as it is would have been a deal.
Posted 07 June 2014 - 10:52 PM
hands down the best for practicality, reliability, and inexpensive high mileages - 1990-1994 legacy/impreza.
most people go with 1995-1999 because they're fairly reliable but look a lot nicer and have better trim options.
EJ25's suck, they have lots of headgasket issues and the 1996-1999 EJ25 is an ominous motor for specific reasons, i'll avoid the diatribe about it here but i've spoken about it before if you want to search.
1997 and later EJ22's are interference. 1996 and earlier are not - so if you're going to skip timing belt jobs, and not do well with maintenance, you're better off getting a 1996 or earlier EJ22 or EJ18 (impreza only motor). if you do a complete and proper timing belt job then it doesn't really matter.
the best thing to do is buy a rust free southern or western 1996-1999 Outback, GT, or LSi with a blown EJ25. they're easy to find because they have so many issues. Then swap in the much more reliable EJ22 or EJ18. those engines run forever and are cheap and easy to maintain. then install the $100 gates timing kits off ebay or amazon.
but if you can't get into engine work - get an EJ22 engine for sure. way more reliable and cheaper and easier to maintain.
Posted 08 June 2014 - 07:07 AM
1990-1996 Legacy are non interference 2.2 engine, best Subaru engine available - after 96 the 2.2 is interference, all 2.5s are interference, and the early ones had head gasket issues.
Impreza models - someone else will have to chime in on - I have no idea how long they were non-interference.
my first legacy - 1990 LS wagon - was $200 - needed new struts and some exhaust work to be drivable
my current - 1995 L wagon - was $300, but needed a tranny...
They are out there for cheap if you hunt and have a little patience
Posted 08 June 2014 - 07:41 AM
Check out Subarus for sale on Craig's List "by owner," not by dealer. That is where you can find some good deals. Even check other Craig's List cities that are not too far from where you live.
I agree with others, the 2.2 engine is the one to own, either in an Impreza or Legacy.
If you have some mechanical skills, and knowledge of how to repair cars, then you can definitely save your self some money on car up keep.
Lots of good advise on repairs on this forum to help you.
Keep us posted on your Subie search..............best of luck.
Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:00 AM
Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:07 AM
Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:28 AM
Iwould not object to it. 1995 subaru legacy outback is a desireable car for my tastes. It could be a salvage title for insurance claim, as minor damage will total out a low book value car. For example, hit a deer requiring a headlight, hood, and fender would total out a car, although the frame is not bent alnd allt he repair is bolt on. It's worth investigating
I would say avoid it if it was in any side t-bone collision, but frontal collision ok if it was superficial damage. Maybe only engine or driveline parts were swapped, it could have been rescued from a salvage lot over a bat engine or whatnot.
Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:34 AM
I would defenetly inspect the car for damage but if I can get the car for 1k it's defenetly would buying I think. Between me and one of my friends who built his whole engine and my mechanic it should be easiy to fix the thing that are wrong with it
Posted 08 June 2014 - 12:54 PM
Well, since you ask for free advice here's mine. I have bought four used 90's subarus [still own two] so I have some experience. I don't like the milage. It's just too high. I don't like the fact that the seller knows nothing about the rebuilt engine or trans. I don't like that the front or rear stuts are bad. Thats $500 right off the bat and more things could be found as the struts are replaced. Pass unless the price is around $500.
Posted 08 June 2014 - 05:21 PM
Posted 08 June 2014 - 08:22 PM
Posted 08 June 2014 - 10:05 PM
rebuilt titles aren't a big deal. research, inspect, look for serious damage, proper repairs, get as much info as possible on it, etc.
Posted 09 June 2014 - 06:32 AM
I will bet the rebuilt title is due to rear end damage in the right rear - the paint doesnt match from right behind fuel filler door back...betting lift gate was replaced as well.
Ad claims that is an Outback, and the 2 tone paint job would support that.
Looks to me like all 4 stuts are done - sitting kind of low on the tires...would also suggest checking for broken springs...
If you do go look at it, do so with a very critical eye. be sure to check for fit/finish of the interior panels in the rear - will help tell you how good the repair job was/is
Posted 09 June 2014 - 07:41 AM
As stated, a car with a rebuilt title is no big deal. I have two cars with rebuilt titles. Both were involved in accidents, with damage not that bad. The insurance company just wanted to total both cars out. It made sense for me to take the insurance money, and keep the car. A small body shop did great work on repairs. I have kept photos of the before and after pictures to show anyone the cars, if and when I should sell them.
A rebuilt title car will have lower value, when time to sell or buy. Ask to see pixs on the 95 to see damage, if available, and offer a lower figure, if you want to buy it.
Posted 09 June 2014 - 07:50 AM
Posted 09 June 2014 - 09:41 AM
Well today after school me and my Freind are gonna go look at it and inspect exactly what type of damage it has. If I do find damage or not the best body work I'll take pic of it and also generally pic of the car itself. Thier are many reasons why a car could have a rebuild title, it could have been stolen and took forever to get back, accident, flood, slight weather damage. I'll be back later today with news on the car
Agreed, rebuilt title could be for a number of reasons........from a wreck, flood, or what ever. Ask owner why it has a rebuilt title..............I bet you already plan on doing that. If still interested, get a carfax report on this car. The report prolly will describe why the car has a rebuilt title.
Posted 09 June 2014 - 06:01 PM
Posted 09 June 2014 - 09:24 PM
So today me and my Freind went and looked at the Subaru outback. The car looked like it was not in an accident was was wearing all of the original paint. I checked the back floor pan and it wasent dented or anything. I test drove it and it ran and drove fine and strait and he said that the brakes and tires where new and already has a aftermarket radio in it. So wensday me and my dad will go look at the car since we will be close and he will be the one to decide
So were you able to learn why the car has a rebuilt title?? Glad to hear the first look at this car went well.
Posted 09 June 2014 - 09:32 PM
Posted 09 June 2014 - 09:56 PM
You're doing good! If you have an OBD2 code reader take it with you Wednesday and find out exactly what the codes are. And don't be afraid to try bargaining the price down--based on salvage title and work that needs to be done. Good luck!
Posted 09 June 2014 - 10:08 PM
Posted 09 June 2014 - 11:08 PM
Are you sure? My '95 is OBD2 and I've never seen one that isn't. But if by chance it is OBD1 you can still pull the codes with test connections under the dash. BTW, It'll probably take more than fresh fluids to dump codes! Good luck.
Posted 10 June 2014 - 06:36 AM
my 95 is also OBDII...
there should be a small access door on the far left side of the lower dash panel - looks like this...
Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: First car, cheap
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