WJM Posted May 9, 2004 Share Posted May 9, 2004 Ok, so I pulled the ultimate Ricer move today...but its not as bad as you think! I cut the springs....but I didnt use any heat! I used a Portaband! Pretty much ate up 2 blades...and I have two more springs to go...the rears. But...I am at the height i want for the front now, and my negative camber is back...its about 2.5-3 negative deg...GOOD!! Autocross time! Where are the cones.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suba Posted May 9, 2004 Share Posted May 9, 2004 i'd be interested to know how it handles after that. you just cut them right? i have heard that with cutting them you're always hitting the bump stops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted May 9, 2004 Author Share Posted May 9, 2004 I know its really close to the bumpstops. On hard/deeper than usual bumps...i think its hitting them. Its got MRTrally camber/caster plates...so along with the stiff (400 lbs front and rear) springs, the wide grippy tires, and the proper camber...its very very grippy. Its also got an 18MM front, and 20MM rear sway bar. Once i get the rear down, it will be very happy. I did have a set of springs that were softer, 250 lbs, that set the front end 1/2 higher than now, and it never hit the bump stops. Handling was GREAT. At that time I had 330 lbs on the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gravelRX Posted May 9, 2004 Share Posted May 9, 2004 Bump stops are progressive, like the spring are from the factory. They are tapered at the top on most cars. Jay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subusolo2nut Posted May 9, 2004 Share Posted May 9, 2004 Yea--that's all I did to my front springs--the ride is acceptable & the bumpstops don't hit (much) if you're careful. In the rear I found that you need to change the control mounting points--my first try gave me about 7/8deg negative!! If you look at the inner mounts, you will see that they are not level with the tube--cant at about 15deg--I welded a washer where I wanted the new location to be (only needed to change the inner holes)--welded inside & outside, then used a rotary file to reopen the hole in its new location--now I have about 1/2deg negative. You will need to slot the arms on the outboard side--this makes the rear toe-adjustable (kind'a like the old VW's were in the rear). I was out yesterday for the first time with the car almost done--can take 25 mph corners at 60/65--car tucks in & exits the corner like a slingshot--WUHU!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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