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EA82 rebuild kits?
Posted 16 June 2014 - 12:43 AM
And while I'm asking, will factory fuel injection and a set of delta cams work together without problems?
Thank you ahead of time.
Posted 16 June 2014 - 12:08 PM
How extensive of a rebuild are you looking at?
Posted 16 June 2014 - 12:48 PM
Posted 16 June 2014 - 06:51 PM
When you get into the bottom end of these is when the $$$ start really racking up.
And not to mention the time you would have to input, maybe you have more time than I though.
I know if you're in the Midwest like I'm these cars are not that popular and hard to come by. If you look hard enough you'll find one though. A 2.2 out of a 96 outback or older legacy would be perfect those are rock solid engines.
Posted 17 June 2014 - 03:15 AM
Anyone know anything about these?http://m.ebay.com/it...7320?nav=SEARCH
Never seen this one. But i would call them to make sure its everything you need. I wouldnt bother replacing rods, they are forged. Pistons are the weak spot. I got a set of wiseco pistons in my ea82t. Its going to be spendy building that little motor that in depth. With parts and machine work to be done. There are some vw springs out there that are stiffer.
Posted 17 June 2014 - 09:49 AM
It's not that expensive to rebuild the engine if you assemble it yourself. $300 for the kit. Pistons, rings, oil pump, bearings, lifters (HLAs) and gaskets. $60 to turn the crank, $10/hole to bore it ($40). Maybe $200 to have the heads done and of course, you'll want a new water pump, timing belts, tensioner and pulleys. Should be about $700 roughly though it's been a few years since I've done one. If the rest of the car is in good shape, it'd be worth it. If not, like Dinky said, find another one.
Posted 18 June 2014 - 03:58 PM
I would look into an EJ18 or EJ22 swap from a 90s era impreza. it might be more economical.
Posted 18 June 2014 - 04:54 PM
Hope it didn't come off that I'm pissed, I just get tired of reading "ej swap", when I didn't ask about it.
Posted 18 June 2014 - 06:33 PM
Never heard of the brand safety gaskets, not sure how good that kit would be. I would ask where they source the parts for the kit.
I am building several ea82t motors at the moment, all with forged pistons. My recommendation would be to take the motor apart and do an inspection before buying parts or moving ahead with that motor. You will need to know how worn or out of round the cylinders are before ordering pistons. Also depending on how/why the motor needs a rebuild, the crankshaft and rods could have wear/damage from spun/worn bearings. Excessive cylinder wear and damaged crank/rod journals can make even the basic diy sketchy/risky/expensive. That said.. if you have the tools and know how or know a good shop, there is no reason not to go for it. Even if that motor is toast, pick n pull motors can be had with 1 year warranty for cheap (look for 50% day).
As mentioned.. the stock forged rods are usually fine, place them on a flat surface (precision plate) and you can easily tell if they are twisted at all. The concern would be the big end race and how jacked up is it from the old bearing. There are no aftermarket rods that I know of anyways, unless custom (117mm c2c).
Stay EA if you are inclined, shun the non-believers!
Edited by Ibreakstuff, 18 June 2014 - 06:38 PM.
Posted 18 June 2014 - 11:03 PM
The stock EA82 SPFI pistons are 9.5:1. Rods are still available, or were a couple years back when I did my XT GL10 motor. Had to replace the crank and rods thanks to my lead foot driving and old rod bearings. Whoopsie! lol I will always stay EA81, rebuild stock EA82's when necessary, but I would never mod and EA82. They're a great every day motor providing you monitor your cooling system religiously, but there are too many poor design choices to make them stout enough to withstand modding without serious upgrades costing more than lightly modding and EJ and swapping. I am figuring in driving style of having a modded motor based on you built it to pound, and you will. If you don't pound it, it'll survive, but not as long as an EJ.
Posted 10 August 2016 - 02:45 PM
I'm reading this thread because of a noise my 88 GL started making yesterday, just did a 3 mile test run after replacing head gaskets. I cranked it this afternoon while friend was listening, and he says it's a rod, rebuild/replace engine. I may be misunderstanding what I read here, rods are usually pretty substantial, and may not be the problem?
background, the car was driven for a few miles with blown head gaskets, water in the oil. Probably been up to temperature for a couple of miles in that condition.
I guess I'm hoping for a suggestion that isn't as extensive (expensive) as replacing or rebuilding the engine before I tear back into it again.
Posted 10 August 2016 - 04:28 PM
I once ran one with 50 / 50 oil and water in the crankcase. A few times, at 65 on the highway. Before I discovered the water had been dissappearing into the crankcase. .. Ooops! I was running expensive 100% synthetic oil. Had no problems with the bearings after I replaced the headgaskets, which had been blown by the overheat while low on coolant problem that caused the mixing. It did burn oil like crazy however.
Posted 10 August 2016 - 05:31 PM
Rockauto has upper and lower gasket set. Crank bearings. Valve springs. Bunch of stuff.
I'm really surprised no one mentioned it. No pistons though.
Posted 10 August 2016 - 08:02 PM
Sorry for hijack the thread, but I should ask, about this:
I could only find genuine valve springs for EA82
I need a set of Hydraulic Lifters and Springs for an EA82.
Posted 11 August 2016 - 08:14 AM
DaveT, after reassembling the engine, there was a thin ticking noise, and it made that noise for a few miles. The next morning though, when I cranked it, it started making the knocking noise.
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