JEBalles Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 You need stubs. I just cut the shaft right by the splined end that goes into the cage on the hub end of the axle. Remove the shaft and the transmission end of the axle and the wheel will stay together. You need to make sure there isn't shaft left that's going to fly around and damage anything. There's also debate as to whether or not it's a good idea, but it's worked for me in the past. You will need to cut the grease boot off to get close to the cage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick1208 Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 So what I'm getting is on the knuckle side I need to cut an axle behind or in front of the boot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegablade Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 So what I'm getting is on the knuckle side I need to cut an axle behind or in front of the boot? Don't just cut the axle. Remove the whole cage assembly from the cup. Just leave the cup and attached axle piece through the hub. I always keep a couple of these laying around, just in case. I do warn you again that you will be putting lots of extra strain on the diff. I exploded a welded diff with 26" tires. Also these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 I broke the passenger side axle shaft. That is why i asked. Why not just fix the axle? Pretty cheap and sure a lot easier to deal with. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegablade Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Why not just fix the axle? Pretty cheap and sure a lot easier to deal with. But that's not "cool". 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 GLoyale, thank you. Bantum... Please stop posting links that do not apply to this tranny. It is not FT, it does not have a center diff and it is 100% to the rear with the front axles out. 4WD has nothing to do with reverse. Again, the pinion shaft (main shaft) is the main drive that ALL gears go through. You will still have reverse unless you didn't have it to start with, then you've got a whole other set of issues. Again, what you are proposing is far more work than changing the axle unless it's a money issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick1208 Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 Also using this thread to help with my questions. So if it did have a center diff it wouldnt put all the power to the rear correct? Does the 83 brat 3 SPD auto tranny have a center diff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sumoco Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 You should do it, it's gonna be super fun plus I want to know how it turns out because I've been wanting to do this for a while and would love to see how it turns out first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 Not 1oo% sure, but I believe the center diff did not come about until the FT5MT so the 3 spd auto would be direct couple as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bantum Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 (edited) Wonder which GL you have there 19804wdPOS ... ? This might help to tell us which model you have ie: Wagon etc : http://ridehomehappy.com/index.php/blog/post/vintage-subaru-brochure-1980-model-lineup 2675-skishop69 - as far as I can tell, the internals of a 1980's 4wd 'part time' gear box are similar ( both in layout & gearing ) to the later 1983 'Dual - Low range' box I showed earlier, just the rear out put is different & its missing a few gears ( low range ) ... ( sorry I haven't been able to find an internal image of the correct gear box - will post when I've found it ) Add : I know it don't have no center diff also - never said it did either ... Add : One way of confirming how much power is getting to the rear end, is to put the car on a dyno with a before & after test measuring just how much HP is getting back there & see if it's actually 100% ... By the sounds of it, 19804wdPOS wants to do some 'burnouts' & waste a few tyres ... So I'd say let him find out the hard way when something goes bang ... Cheers, Bantum ... Edited May 24, 2017 by Bantum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEBalles Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 Needing to prove that 100% of the power goes to the rear wheels with a dyno test is like needing to prove that I can't draw 4 red lines with green ink by actually trying to draw 4 red lines with green ink. If fact, theoretically, you would be getting slightly more power to the rear wheels than the front wheels received previously, since there is one fewer axle that is adding drag to the drivetrain. In any case, let's put this point to rest. If you'd like to know the specifics as to why this is, just let me know, I have a bachelor's degree in mechanical engineering. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 Also using this thread to help with my questions. So if it did have a center diff it wouldnt put all the power to the rear correct? Does the 83 brat 3 SPD auto tranny have a center diff? Not a diff. Also not a direct gear coupling either. It's a Multiplate Hydraulic clutch......just like the 4EAT......except it's either got no pressure (2wd) or full pressure (4wd).........A propely working rear output on a 3AT will deliver "locked" 4wd......although most have a bit of wear at this point. I have the 3AT 4wd trans in my 84 GL.......When I broke a front axle, 4wd did get me home using RWD.....but I could tell the Multiplate clutch was slipping some......driving like that all the time would wear it out. *****notes about 3at******* 84 and earlier 3ats use a slight reduction at the transfer gears for the front and output relative to the rear .(981).......so the Front diff is 3.54, and the rear diff is 3.7.......yeilding actually slight overdrive to the rear diff once the math is all done. 85 and after they went to a 1:1 coupling.....so front and rear diffs are the same ratio.......and they also went to 3.9 ratio in ~86? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick1208 Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 Not a diff. Also not a direct gear coupling either. It's a Multiplate Hydraulic clutch......just like the 4EAT......except it's either got no pressure (2wd) or full pressure (4wd).........A propely working rear output on a 3AT will deliver "locked" 4wd......although most have a bit of wear at this point. I have the 3AT 4wd trans in my 84 GL.......When I broke a front axle, 4wd did get me home using RWD.....but I could tell the Multiplate clutch was slipping some......driving like that all the time would wear it out. *****notes about 3at******* 84 and earlier 3ats use a slight reduction at the transfer gears for the front and output relative to the rear .(981).......so the Front diff is 3.54, and the rear diff is 3.7.......yeilding actually slight overdrive to the rear diff once the math is all done. 85 and after they went to a 1:1 coupling.....so front and rear diffs are the same ratio.......and they also went to 3.9 ratio in ~86? ok, my brat is an 83, so that means it would be the 3.7 in the rear? It's going to get a welded rear and my goal is to build a semi-reliable rwd brat with very little modification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 Nick, You won't be able to do what you want to with the auto since it has a hydro clutch system and have any semblance of reliability. That's the first issue. The second is you live a climate with rain 9 months out of the year. The rear of the vehicle is far to light to provide any type of reasonable traction in wet weather with the tires available to us Brat owners for a daily driver scenario. The a** end would be all over the place. lol If you're looking to drive it for fun in dry weather, it might be ok, but I'd recommend against it. Just my 0.02. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick1208 Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 Nick, You won't be able to do what you want to with the auto since it has a hydro clutch system and have any semblance of reliability. That's the first issue. The second is you live a climate with rain 9 months out of the year. The rear of the vehicle is far to light to provide any type of reasonable traction in wet weather with the tires available to us Brat owners for a daily driver scenario. The a** end would be all over the place. lol If you're looking to drive it for fun in dry weather, it might be ok, but I'd recommend against it. Just my 0.02. Getting the rump roast end all over the road sounds like my cup of tea! That's what I'd want to do. Sounds like it won't last very long before something goes bad. So I'll just wait until the weather permits. do my skids. And be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 get a clutch pedal if you wanna burnout in your brat 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick1208 Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 I still have my push button from my d/r swap...5spd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 I still have my push button from my d/r swap...5spd. That would be better than the 3at. 5 spd S/R in a brat would do just fine to go RWD Like I said.....the 3at won't do RWD for any time at all.......I mean really AT ALL. I barely limped home a few miles...and it didn't like it one bit. The clutchs will slip and smoke the first time you try to burnout....especially with a welded rear diff. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick1208 Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 That would be better than the 3at. 5 spd S/R in a brat would do just fine to go RWD Like I said.....the 3at won't do RWD for any time at all.......I mean really AT ALL. I barely limped home a few miles...and it didn't like it one bit. The clutchs will slip and smoke the first time you try to burnout....especially with a welded rear diff. rad. not very familiar with the ea81. is it the same mount up from the ea82 tranny? or is there an adaptor plate involved? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 same b housing, will need to address the driveline difference. theres a couple ways to acheive this 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick1208 Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 same b housing, will need to address the driveline difference. theres a couple ways to acheive this you're my guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 Like Ski said earlier, the lifted rigs with a divorced t-case use RWD. My lifted hatch had this setup, but I went thru 2 trans because I stripped the teeth of the ring gear. With the EJ trans, the center diff can be welded which allows all power to go to the rear. I'm going to use this setup on my upcoming project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 Like Ski said earlier, the lifted rigs with a divorced t-case use RWD. My lifted hatch had this setup, but I went thru 2 trans because I stripped the teeth of the ring gear. With the EJ trans, the center diff can be welded which allows all power to go to the rear. I'm going to use this setup on my upcoming project. I Think you mean transfer gear.....not the ring gear in the front diff correct??? I welded my transfer gear collar rigth to the gear to keep maximum engagement on the teeth in my T-cased rig.......no need to use the FWD option. But that is T-cased not really relavent here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19804wdPOS Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 Why not just fix the axle? Pretty cheap and sure a lot easier to deal with. the axle popped out and I've wanted to go rwd and I'm lazy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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