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EJ Swap Wiring Questions


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61 replies to this topic

#26 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 27 June 2014 - 07:36 PM

Right on, hopefully someone can chime in concerning those wires. As far as TPS goes, I'm all hooked up there, got all 4 wires where they need to be, just not sure about those extras. Seems to me though for an auto trans, there may need to be some TPS info sent to the AT control unit. Just wish that could be confirmed.

 

I've got that wire isolated (white/green), but the writeup on the VW site said the green/white is oil pressure, will check my schematics.

 

I do have an electrical meter, can't say I've ever used one too much.. I vaguely understand how it operates though.



#27 Scooner

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Posted 27 June 2014 - 08:20 PM

Is it a digital one? If so you can use the continuity setting to find exactly where those wires originate from the motor. That or use can use the ohm setting bud.

#28 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 27 June 2014 - 08:58 PM

No, it's got a needle for the readout.

 

Back to the question about the fat blue with red trace wire, it goes to the starter switch wire? Like, the fat one that runs to the starter from the battery? The only wires I see going to the starter, are that one, the ground that also goes to the battery, and the one you referred to earlier scooner, the one that clips on the back of the starter.



#29 Scooner

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Posted 27 June 2014 - 09:45 PM

Yeah and as a matter of fact when i was out there i noticed the wire is a fat black with red trace that i spliced into. It kills me that you are so far away bro, if you were close i'd be over there helping you out and help make sense of the whole thing, and also give you loads of shielded wire i have left over!

#30 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 01:02 AM

Like, the huge main battery cable? Just want to make sure before I hack into that thing.

I appreciate the thought man, maybe if I'm short on shielded wire you could send me some?

#31 Scooner

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 07:37 AM

No, on the back of the starter there is a fat black/red wire, like 14 gauge that has a plug that slides into the starter. Maybe, yours doesn't have that wire? Hmm

#32 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 10:01 AM

I'll look more closely today.

#33 Gloyale

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 06:22 PM

I was referring to the coil that sits underneath the fusible links. There is a yellow wire on one terminal and a black on the other. If you splice the tach wire into the yellow one your tach in the car will read.


Glo, Glo, Glo...Both of my EJ swaps were from 5 speed Legacies both being year 1990. Meaning I never hooked it up. Ever.. That neutral switch means nothing to this ECU in a manual, how the hell would this ECU know whether the car is traveling 1 mph anyways? Are you sure you're not confusing this OBD I ECU with an OBDII?

This OBD I ECU is not as complicated as it is being made out to be. Geeezus.

Your ECU is just doing a good job of compensating and keeping the engines running.....some ECUs have a harder time than others.  But there is a Nuetral switch in the system, and it has an effect on the Closed loop operation.  Your ECU just basically is seeing you're engine as in gear all the time.  Your particular driving style could be preventing symtoms......But those who put the clutch in around turns and coast in nuetral to a stop HAVE reported problems with stalling and/ random high idles..

 

The VSS is how the ECU knows the car is moveing.  Duh..

 

I have done 9 swaps in person and stripped wiring for  dozens more board members....OBD I, OBDII, EJ22, EJ18, EJ257 and EJ20G........and a few SPFI to EA81 swaps.

 

I am trying hard to give helpful, accurate, thorough information.

 

Do you have your CEL hooked up.?.....If not how do you know if it's not causeing a CEL and an Open loop condition? (loss of mileage and possibly power)

 

Anyhow.....Ystirday......nuetral switch is in the transmission of FI cars.......if you don't have one on your trans a common "hack" is to wire it through a Clutch switch that is ussually used for Cruise.....can be scavanged from any MT legacyor other w/ cruise. Mounts to clutch pedal bracket

Wire so clutch "in" is like "neutral"

 

Green/White is OIL light wire (not fuel, Scooner) and the White/Green is temp....as mentioned.


Edited by Gloyale, 28 June 2014 - 06:24 PM.


#34 Scooner

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 07:52 PM

That's good to know, i will have to go out and check oyt my wiring. I can tell you for certain that i do not have the vehicle speed sensor or neutral switch hooked up and now i am very curious as to what will happen if i do.

Gloyale, would you mind setting us up with a link here to your write up on the EA to EJ swap? That would be super helpful, you have to remember that most of us who attempt this swap go off of numbchux write up which don't get me wrong it is great for the basics but alot of the detail in the neutral switch, vss, etc would be super helpful bud! Thanks!

#35 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 29 June 2014 - 10:55 AM

So the moment of truth came and went last night. I tried to start it and it wouldn't fire. Tried starting fluid and got a couple pops, but wouldn't stay running.

I'm thinking it has something to do with the way I hooked the power in.

Also, don't hear the fuel pump running at all.

Hmm...

#36 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 29 June 2014 - 02:53 PM

So here's some more detail. I've got all my engine harness grounds hooked up to the ECU as they are supposed to be. My ignition relay ground goes to the correct ECU pin. I'm using the original EA power supply cords, going to the starter, and the ground from the battery goes to the starter lug. The engine ground is hooked up as it is supposed to be on the DS of the intake manifold. I also ran a ground from the chassis to a bolt on the engine(where the A/C bracket used to be) I also ran a ground from that same chassis spot to the negative terminal on the battery. (not sure if this is necessary) There is a ground running from the steering column to one of the screws on the side of the ecu as well(also not sure if this is necessary)

 

My power comes in from the fat white and the fat black wires under the steering column that go to the ignition(key). I have a 20A inline fuse on the white(constant?) and a 15A on the black(switched?) Connected to the white I have, my backup power wire from the ECU, as well as the fat yellow that combines the fat yellow from the fuel pump relay, and the two fat yellows from the ignition relay. I also hooked up the fat yellow which comes from the engine bay to this wire.(power to injectors?) I combined the fat yellow/reds that come off the ignitor and the 02 sensor with the three fat yellow/reds that come off the engine plug, they run to the fat yellow/red coming off the ign relay. The other fat yellow/red from the ign relay goes to it's designated spot on the ECU.

 

So yeah, that's my wiring mess, how bad is it?


Edited by ystrdyisgone, 29 June 2014 - 02:53 PM.


#37 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 29 June 2014 - 02:57 PM

Oh and I also have the black/red wire from the fuel pump spliced directly to a new wire that I strung up from the fuel pump, connected to the red//green wire, left the other (black i think) intact.

 

:banghead:



#38 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 29 June 2014 - 03:29 PM

Okay I found two problems, first, my yellow wire coming out of the diode was not attached to anything, so I hooked it up to switched 12V. Now I hear clicking from the main relay when I turn the key to on. YES!

 

I also grounded the fuel pump to the body right at the fuel pump, as suggested in another thread.

 

But I think the issue is this, I have 12V reading at the fat yellow of the fuel pump relay, but the others, there is nothing. So, no power coming out of the relay going to the fuel pump..



#39 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 29 June 2014 - 04:38 PM

So I took the thin yellow coming out of the FPR, and also the thin yellow on the ECU that it was connected to, and gave them both switched power, I get voltage going to the pump when the key turns now. But it only stays on for a second, then cuts power. The engine really sounds like it wants to start, but it won't catch and stay running. ??



#40 Gloyale

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Posted 29 June 2014 - 07:47 PM

Is the start signal wire hooked up?  Ecu will on;y power the fuel pump if it sees proper voltage to that and CAM/Crank sensor signals.



#41 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 29 June 2014 - 09:18 PM

Yeah I hooked up the start signal wire to the ea wire that clips onto the back of the starter.

So essentially by hooking those thin yellows directly to the switched 12V I bypassed the ECU control?

Also, I currently have the ground from the ea alt hooked to the ej alt, but the rest of the ej alt wires are loose. Do these need to be hooked up for it to run?

I'll check to see if I've got a signal at the ecu for those sensors.

It's definitely getting fuel, as the exhaust reeks of it. It's got spark, cause starting fluid fires it.

I followed the schematic wiring to a T concerning grounds. But I read somewhere the ignition relay should be a separate ground?

Ps thanks for bearing with me Gloyale, you rock man.

#42 Gloyale

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 10:30 AM

There is no "ground" at the ALT. 

 

there is 12v to battery....Big white wire,

 

12v from Ig. switch (BW on EA, Y on EJ)

 

and "charge Lamp" wire (WR on EA, BW on EJ)

 

 

Ig relay should be the ONLY ground you need to deal with.....all others ground through the harness at the intake.....if you connected all wires back toghether properly, you should not need to add any other grounds.

 

The "thin yellow" wires are the IG switch ciruit......so you haven't bypassed the ECU, just allowed it and the IG relay and FP relay to get power....that sounds correct.  You may need to make sure that the IG switched power is getting to the Ignitor, the IAC, and the coil.....those IIRC are also on the same cirucit.

 

Do you have the intake boot and the MAF hooked up???  they need to be for the engine to run for more than a moment.

 

keep forgetting to bring the legacy FSM home for scans.....I really will try today.



#43 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 01:16 PM

Good to know, I thought the wire that was fastened with the 10mm nut was ground.

 

Concerning the grounds, I left the splices intact off the ecu pin 25(26 pin connector) So I had a leftover one and hooked up the ign relay to that. As far as I know all the other wires are hooked up just like they are supposed to be, like I said I followed the schematics to a T. Only difference is that I put a ground strap from the intake ground, to the chassis, and another from that same chassis point to the negative terminal on battery. ???

 

I checked the ignitor and the coil for power yesterday, and they both were getting power. I didn't check the IAC. Will do that next.

 

Intake and MAF are all hooked up. The engine won't even run for a moment. It fires maybe a couple cylinders at first key turn, and then just cranks. Gas pedal has no effect.



#44 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 10:16 PM

Here's a video of what the engine does on cranking. A hint of firing right at first crank, but then nothing. If I give it any gas, it won't fire at all when cranking.

 

 

What I don't get is that it runs with starting fluid. So does that mean TPS, or IAC problem?

 

Just checked the wires at the TPS and IAC. With the ignition turned on, I get power on the middle wire or the IAC (yellow/red) nothing from the other two. That seems right though. And for the TPS, I get power on the brown wire, and the red wire, nothing on the black or white. This also seems right.

 

Checked out the Crank Position Sensor, got no reading from any of the three wires. That makes sense though cause it's not running, right? Same thing for the other sensors(cam, and knock)



#45 Scooner

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 10:55 PM

Just had a thought having to do with the IAC, on my first swap i did, i also ran all of my own wires to the sensors (which was ridiculous) Either way when i ran the wires i criss crossed the two signal wires to it and it wouldn't run. After switching those two wires it ran!

Maybe there's a chance you have them backwards?

#46 czny

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 08:08 AM

You're video doesn't play ystrdyisgone - it is marked private.



#47 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 08:44 AM

Thanks Bruce, fixed that.

#48 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 03:10 PM

Levi, checked out the iac wires, they are hooked up to pins 1 and 2 on the 26 pin ecu connector.

One thing that just occurred to me, when I had the engine hanging for a few days, it did rain, I had paper towels covering the intake holes, but maybe some moisture got in. Might that cause this sort of issue? I'm going to remove the plugs and see what I can see there. But still, it runs with starting fluid, so wtf..

#49 Scooner

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 04:06 PM

Hey Mitch, do you have the harness still strung outside of the car, or do you have it all installed?

How is you ignitor (igniter?) wiring looking? Also, where did you mount it at?

#50 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 06:23 PM

It's strung in place, but it's not wrapped or anything.

 

At the igniter, there is a bit of wire showing through on the yellow/blue, right near the plug. Can't be easily replaced.. I didn't mount it yet, it's just sitting loose.

 

I think my problem is the fuel pump though. There was a bit of pressure in the fuel system when I unhooked the fuel line, but I put the hose in a bottle today to see if anything comes out, and it doesn't. I hooked up the fuel pump to a battery, and it pumps just fine. I don't know where the issue is. I've got it grounded right at the pump on the body of the car, I took the power wire and strung it inside the car up to the black/red wire on the FPR. Got power coming into the FPR, got the light green/black wire hooked to the ecu.. idk what's up with it.


Edited by ystrdyisgone, 01 July 2014 - 06:23 PM.





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