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Adjustable rear trailing arms


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11 replies to this topic

#1 Battle Wagon

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Posted 24 June 2014 - 11:04 AM

Read several threads on this topic but still can't decide which trailing arms to use to correct geometry on my 93 legacy. KYB/ King spring lift, 28" tires ...

Mixed reviews on the EBay stuff ( Godpeed and the like) - http://m.ebay.com/it...VIDESC&gxo=true

http://m.ebay.com/it...Id=190804344943

Cusco and OBX are pretty spendy...

Thoughts ?

#2 NorthCoast

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Posted 24 June 2014 - 01:19 PM

I bought the cheaper ones you have listed.  They work just fine.  Cheaper to buy those than rebuild them but they are rebuild-able.  Depending on the size of your lift and how you have the trailing arm connected it may need to be modified.

 

IMAG0641.jpg

 

IMAG0648.jpg



#3 shotgun_Willie

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Posted 24 June 2014 - 02:48 PM

I think that I have the same ones as Northcoast on my Forester,  they seem to work fine with my 2" strut top lift.  I think I've had them on for about a year now.



#4 Battle Wagon

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Posted 25 June 2014 - 08:08 PM

Thanks for the replies. Ordered the Godspeed kit. Did you guys block down the front mounting points for the trailing arms ? If so, what worked best ?

#5 NorthCoast

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Posted 26 June 2014 - 08:25 AM

No blocks.  Blocks just give you a spot to get hung up on.



#6 Battle Wagon

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Posted 26 June 2014 - 11:16 AM

North coast - were you able to re-center the wheel with just the trailing arm adjustment ? I saw in another thread where someone was pointing out that you may have suspension binding issues with your setup. What's your take ? How likely is it to bend stuff or have premature wear on bushings ?

#7 Battle Wagon

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Posted 26 June 2014 - 11:16 AM

Is the idea to get the strut perfectly vertical ?

#8 NorthCoast

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Posted 26 June 2014 - 02:16 PM

North coast - were you able to re-center the wheel with just the trailing arm adjustment  ?

 

 

Yes, although mine is lengthened to compensate for the 7" lift.  There is plenty of adjustment to compensate for a strut only lift.  legacygt4 did the same thing in his thread.

 

http://www.ultimates...legacy-outback/

 

 

 I saw in another thread where someone was pointing out that you may have suspension binding issues with your setup. What's your take ? How likely is it to bend stuff or have premature wear on bushings ?

 

My take?  That guy is a ... oh wait, this isn't Rally Anarchy. Free speech not allowed here.  

 

I don't have any suspension binding and won't have any unless I find a magic set of super suspender struts that would increase my travel by a minimum of 4".  

 

Likelihood of bending stuff is relative to your speed vs the mass of the object you hit.  

 

Premature bushing wear?  I'll answer your question with these questions.  How long are bushings supposed to last? How often do you wash your car?  How do you drive it? 

 

My take on bushings is this... If they last two years with the abuse I put on them then I'm happy. 



#9 Uberoo

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Posted 29 June 2014 - 01:24 PM

North coast - were you able to re-center the wheel with just the trailing arm adjustment ? I saw in another thread where someone was pointing out that you may have suspension binding issues with your setup. What's your take ? How likely is it to bend stuff or have premature wear on bushings ?

The suspension binding issues is because the control arms pivot around different axis's.However, it is "solved" with the heim joints because they allow much more sideways deflection than the stock rubber bushings.



#10 MetricMuscle

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 02:55 AM

How much travel are you able to get with this arrangement?

Is toe effected?



#11 NorthCoast

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 08:57 AM

Toe is not effected.  Travel is approximately 7.5" down and a little less up because it rubs the top of the wheel well.



#12 MetricMuscle

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 12:34 PM

Wow, so over 12" from full droop to full bump?






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