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ea82 weber final conversion pics


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okay, guys.

 

first, i want to thank you all for your geat posts and the superb threads i have read on here.

here's the deal.

bought an 86 gl 5spd 4wd hi-lo.

doing the weber conversion, ripped out a bunch of stuff, put some back the way ive seen on some of these threads, reached a dead end.

got the weber on, got it all connected, but still need some clear pictures of where to run the final lines of vacuum hoses, what all needs closed off, what needs to stay. ill put some pictures on here in a little bit to show what ive got done.

thanks for any help you can give. i need to finish her this weekend.

love this forum!!!

~awdwagon

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yeah, bud, i've read through that several times. ive checked all the stuff i can find on here, but still have some questions.i did the datsun adaptor plate like you recommended, and the hoses for the PCV also using the t junction likei saw on there too.i got the return line closed from the tank, gonna put a filter on the tank vent line. but im needing some clarification on those three vacuum lines that need to be ran. now ive pulled almost everything out that i thought needed removed. my car does not have A/C, so i dunno what else i need to run and from where to have the vacuum system work correctly, esp. the brake booster and the distributor lines and where they hook up

...

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... but still have some questions ... im needing some clarification on those three vacuum lines that need to be ran. ... my car does not have A/C, so i dunno what else i need to run and from where to have the vacuum system work correctly, esp. the brake booster and the distributor lines and where they hook up...


 
Everything is well explained at post Nº 10 of the Writeup whose Link is posted Above, but if you still need some clarification on Vacuum lines, let me re-explain it here.
 

One Vacuum Line from the intake manifold to the Brake Booster.
......(this is the Thickest hose, shall be connected to the Thickest outlet on the intake)
 
One Vacuum line from the Front-right port of the Weber Carb, directly to the Distributor Advance.
 

One Vacuum Line from the intake Manifold to the Vacuum Accumulator Bottle.
 
Despite that your subie does not have A/C, if it has the accumulator bottle under the Windshield, at the engine bay, behind the Passenger's side strut Tower
(on LHD Models) that vacuum accumulator Bottle provides stable vacuum to the A/C buttons on the Dashboard and also for engaging the 4WD mode on the Push-Button Models. So, if your subie doesn't have that kind of Transmission nor A/C, you can simply omit to connect that third vacuum line.
 
Kind Regards.
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okay, so i have the manual shift version for my 4wd and no a/c, so i dont need the third one evidently. What does that bottle look like? is it a big round plastic ball? because i have that. and it doesnt matter what opening on the intake i use, just the biggest i have open for the brake booster? also, that flexible piping that connected to the old air filter housing and goes directly to the first catalytic converter, what do i do with it? because that cat needs the fresh air to help it work, right? so if i am not gonna cut that one out right away, should i just put a filter on that thing?

you have been a massive help, and  ive tried to follow the directions i have found in the post, but most of the time the photobucket pictures werent there and this is my first solo major project ive done on a motor. helped a guy rebuild a top end on a 350 chev once, thats really it...

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... you have been a massive help, and  ive tried to follow the directions i have found in the post, but most of the time the photobucket pictures werent there and this is my first solo major project ive done on a motor...

 

Thank you for your Kind Words.

 

About Photobucket, Please read here:

 

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139920-photobucket-sucks-a-rant-about-picture-hosting-woes/page-2

 

The Problem has been Solved.

 

 

About the Fresh air / Catalytic issue,

 

those are refered as ASV system on the Writeup,

 

look for it and follow the Directions.

 

Kind Regards.

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how do i attach photos on here?

 

First: Upload 'em to your Facebook, PhotoBucket, ImageShack, etc...

 

Second: Obtain the Photo's URL address from there,

 

Third: open a New Post here and look for the Green icon,

located under the  :) and the A. icons on the Post management above,

 

Fourth: Click that green icon, it will open a dialog box on which you should...

 

Fifth: ...Paste that URL Address, and Voilá! ... The Photo will be seen here.

 

Kind Regards.

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10451025_10202133281920395_5650956247595

10513538_10202133282280404_3743242241640

10473983_10202133283240428_8607249276587

okay, first photo is everything i have removed. if you see anything i shouldnt have removed, please point it out and tell me what it does... second photo - the air valve that comes out of the intake into the block, i saw you had that closed off. is it necessary i close that and why? also second photo - i have these two holes left.ill check the ASV system post for the bottom one, whats the other one for? i removed some canister that was attached to it, large hoses on it. and last picture - whats this thing next to my distributor? big opening also like the one i am asking about in the previous pic, dunno what it is for.

any help is good help at this point,i am almost finished!

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... the air valve that comes out of the intake into the block, i saw you had that closed off. is it necessary i close that and why? ...

 

That is the one I mentioned in the Writeup as the E.G.R. System and is for engine gas recirculation.

 

I had to change the Heads on my "BumbleBeast" long years ago, those are the third gen EA82 Heads and those came from factory with that passage sealed; so the EGR valve at the intake was cap closed for being useless, for years; however, when I did the Weber Swap, I removed that EGR Valve and the closed pipe, because I don't want to have unuseful stuff on the Engine bay, and in that way, the intake looks cleaner.

 

Is it necessary? ... Well, the answer will depend on your area's Laws against pollution and what will be needed to stay in the car in order to pass emmissions; but that EGR design is unhealthy for the EA82, that is the reason why the Subaru Engineers removed it from the third gen Heads.

 

But if you want to keep it and make it work as close as it should, the front of the weber carburetor has two pipes that provides vacuum, the one on the Right side which is Progressive, is intended for the distributor's advance; while the pipe on the Left side, provides vacuum until the engine is at higher RPM's, when the Secondary (high) stage of the carburetor is activated; so it is intended to be hooked at the EGR Valve; you can run a 3/16" vacuum hose from said front-left port on the Weber Carburetor, to the EGR Valve.

 

The rest of the Openings on the Exhaust, shall be Closed, otherwise your engine bay will become Noisy from exhaust...

 

Kind Regards.

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Since seems like you don't have too much previous experience on Engines / Carburetors \ Repairs, if you know someone around you with more experience, it could be good idea to ask for an inspection / check on your install, previously to try starting the engine; because a fuel \ Vacuum  leak or other kind of problems could be pretty Dangerous...

 

Please take care.

 

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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okay, so what is this for and to? there was a small tube going to a small can, dunno what it does... passenger side of the engine bay, had 5/8 hose on it, the line that is there goes to the block. is that like an oil overflow or something? can i just hook that to the one from the other side nd let them flow back and forth from one side to the other?

 

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Edited by 1184lix1194lixu
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You have removed your cruise control, -which is the plastic ball-shaped can and bracket with wiring and vac switch. (in the left corner of your picture) 

Also, the vacuum accumulator bottle referred to by JesZek in post #4 is the white bottle near your hatch latch, -I think you need it to make your heater vents work.

Hope this helps!

Edited by rrgrr
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You really should learn more about carburetor theory..........willy nilly removing things from your car when you don't know what they are could have unforseen results.

 

But with that said here is a few more tips.

 

ok also, that flexible piping that connected to the old air filter housing and goes directly to the first catalytic converter, what do i do with it? because that cat needs the fresh air to help it work, right? so if i am not gonna cut that one out right away, should i just put a filter on that thing?

 

That is not an air supply to the cat.

 

It mearly feeds "warmed" air from the jacket around the CAT, to the intake during warm up.  You can remove it......and don't do anything to the CAT....the metal "tube" coming off the CAT is just part of it's heat sheild will not leak exhaust.

 

For the ASV (pipes coming off heads) unscrew the tube from the ASV block.......slip a Quarter ($.25 US coin) into the hole and screw the pipe back in.....now the ASV is effectively blocked off.

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well, i started her up and she runs fine. the idle is a little high, but ill adjust that. gonna add the coolant back in and warm her up and set the best idle and take her for a run... i will leave that hole  on the cat open like you said. we'll see how she does on a short run and ill post finished pictures here... thanks everyone for your help!!

~Red

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