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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Friend's alternator cable split


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19 replies to this topic

#1 1-3-2-4

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 12:37 AM

It's like pulling teeth trying to get info from him.. I tried to get him to send me a picture but all I know is he said the wire for the alternator output split near the part that gets screwed down.. so he is looking to get a replacement cable from the dealer but I can't see to find a part number for the cable?



#2 lmdew

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 07:00 AM

It's part of the wiring harness.  It connects to the engine compartment fuse box.  

 

1) if the wire is long enough crimp on a new end and be done with it.  Don't use a cheap crimp, get a good one and a quality crimper

2) hit the junk yard and remove a good one



#3 1-3-2-4

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 09:11 AM

So you are saying it's a pain to get to and change it? I'm not out at my car right now to look.

#4 jp98

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 10:08 AM

Odds are the dealer will not even have it in stock if they can even get it, and usually with pieces for a wiring harness they will only sell you the whole harness.  The quickest and easiest way to fix it would be to just get a piece of wire of the same gauge and crimp a connector on the end.  Then cut and crimp it to the old wire back where there is good wire and before the so called split. 



#5 1-3-2-4

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 10:27 AM

The yard has a outback but the question is is it really involved in replacing the harness part for the alternator? I would crimp it but where would I find the connectors and what tool would do a good job of crimping?



#6 jp98

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 11:20 AM

If you don't have a crimping tool but do have a soldering iron or gun you could use the one from the junk yard, solder it and then heat shrink the connection.  If you don't have a soldering iron or gun you really should if you do work on vehicles.  Also use rosin core solder for electrical and electronics and not the acid type for plumbing.  In a pinch you could even use a large electrical connector called a wing nut.   



#7 1-3-2-4

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 11:25 AM

I have all that but I use my soldering iron for smaller electronic stuff so my highest wattage is 40w he told me the rubber cover was burned.. I don't have a crimper.

#8 jp98

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 11:30 AM

You really don't need the rubber cover, all that is for is so that you don't short it out while working on something else.  A 40w one would work but it would take a while to heat up the wires. 



#9 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 11:48 AM

don't forget to pull the neg terminal off the battery before any work,

 

It's just too easy to be 'casual' and forget about that 600A battery under the hood!


Edited by 1 Lucky Texan, 06 July 2014 - 08:18 AM.


#10 Cougar

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 11:35 PM

I suggest you try to find a service shop that specializes in electrical repairs. They should have the parts you really need to fix this. You can't use a normal wire crimper tool for this or connectors. You are going to need something for 8 or 6 gauge wire most likely. If the remaining end of the wire is long enough a new terminal could be crimped on it, otherwise you will have to splice a small section onto the end with a new terminal on it. You should also try to find another boot to go over the stud connection. It leaves the hot connection exposed without it. If a ground comes into contact with that it's good by fuse. Make sure the connection to the alternator is clean an snug tight, not over tightened.  



#11 1-3-2-4

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 11:44 PM

He went ahead anyways and ordered a new cable from the dealer.

 

not sure how much it costs but it's going to take a few days.



#12 1-3-2-4

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 08:20 AM

Forgot to post pictures but he ended up getting the wrong part from the dealer he got the battery cables to starter and ground.. I still don't see a part for it and he looks like he might have to crimp it.

#13 1-3-2-4

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 08:24 AM

Let's see if this works

Edited by 1-3-2-4, 14 July 2014 - 09:58 AM.


#14 1-3-2-4

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 09:59 AM

Ended up going to a yard and cutting

#15 1-3-2-4

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 10:54 AM

Question the nut that screws on is very tight he already picked up a reman alt and I wonder if I should use it?

#16 Fairtax4me

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 11:00 AM

Reman alt is gonna be trouble unless it came from Subaru.
If the threads on the post are OK clean any corrosion off with a wire brush and use a new 10mm nut. Apply some di-electric grease or anti-seize lightly to the threads to prevent rust.

#17 Fairtax4me

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 11:00 AM

Reman alt is gonna be trouble unless it came from Subaru.
If the threads on the post are OK clean any corrosion off with a wire brush and use a new 10mm nut. Apply some di-electric grease or anti-seize lightly to the threads to prevent rust.

#18 1-3-2-4

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 11:11 AM

Yeah I know trying to keep the alternator

This site sucks on mobile can't upload the pics but heavy oxidation on the first 3 inches of the cable along with a burning smell.

Edited by 1-3-2-4, 14 July 2014 - 11:13 AM.


#19 1-3-2-4

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 01:16 PM

Wow I tested the old alt and it was putting out 30vac

#20 1-3-2-4

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 01:53 PM

Ok it was a cheap autozone meter and I checked on my better one and it's fine.




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