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Overheating and power loss
Posted 13 July 2014 - 09:10 PM
2001 Legacy Wagon with 236 on the clock and completely stock other than maintenance mentioned above.
Thank you in advance, you were all a big help on my timing belt.
Posted 13 July 2014 - 09:15 PM
Posted 13 July 2014 - 09:33 PM
Was the O2 code description for a "stuck lean" condition? if so, you may have a weak fuel pump. this is especially likely because you say it takes a few tries to start, like you are priming the fuel system. a lean condition will cause hotter combustion temps, and could cause overheating. If the fuel starvation is bad enough, it will cause a lack of power under load, but may run fine at idle. if you have a fuel pressure gauge, that's the best way to check pressure, but a simple and crude way to check is to squeeze the fuel supply hose between your thumb and forefinger and have someone turn the ignition on. if the hose gets rock hard instantly, you might be ok, if it stays soft or takes a couple of seconds to get hard, you may have a suspect fuel pump.
also, the overheating may be a completely separate issue, like a faulty thermostat installed when you replace the water pump. it has been my experience, that if you dont use an OEM or other very high quality thermostat, you're taking a big gamble.
Posted 13 July 2014 - 09:44 PM
Posted 14 July 2014 - 12:00 AM
Also Subarus are picky about thermostats. The cheapo parts store stats cause trouble due to inferior design. The stat has to be of OE design or it will cause problems. Stant and Gates both offer OE equivalent thermostats available at most parts stores.
Stant Exact-stat 48457 or Gates 34012.
Fuel pump problem is very likely on that year. There is a cap on the pump assembly that cracks and bleeds fuel pressure back into the tank. Replacement caps can be bought but are pricey. Also need a new o-ring not included with the cap.
Posted 14 July 2014 - 10:31 AM
Posted 14 July 2014 - 10:50 AM
You may have to do this periodically. The HG may be allowing combustion gas into the cooling system, pushing it out. Be sure to only fill the overflow to the mark near the bottom of the jug. If the fluid level rises, you have coolant pushing out. Sometimes combustion gasses can get past the gasket although the gasket is not failed. This is especially true with turbo engines. Just be adamant about checking the coolant and burping it off as necessary. Even my swapped 86 3door with an ej22 from an o1 impreza loses coolant somehow, although there is nothing wrong with it and 80,000 mi on the engine itself.
Posted 14 July 2014 - 11:33 AM
Posted 14 July 2014 - 11:38 AM
definitely inspect the fuel pump assembly - cheap/easy insurance.
but it does seem like you have typical HG problems. There is a chemical test from the parts stores but people have had variable results with it. best to use if you see bubbling in the coolant.
You might email Blackstone labs and see how much/if they can sell a test for bad HGs. probably need to sen din a few ounces of coolant.
Edited by 1 Lucky Texan, 14 July 2014 - 11:41 AM.
Posted 14 July 2014 - 12:19 PM
New scenario is that the car has no power and stutters under load, especially uphill.
Check timing marks. If there's a "new" issue after installing the timing belt then there's a good chance it's one tooth off.
I'd expect a cam sensor code on the check engine light, but still worth a check.
Scan the check engine light codes again and see if you have any "Pending" codes, they'll be stored but the Check Engine light won't be on for it.
Spark plugs - check and see if the'yre covered in oil or old. Should have a cylinder misfire check engine light but i've seen stranger things.
Highly unlikely it's related to fuel pressure or the catalytic converter.
If you get a check engine light and read the code - tell us exactly what the code number is.
If it was aP0420 it'll likely come back, they are very intermittent at times - but it's benign so you can ignore it until you solve the starting/driving issues.
It's nearly impossible for a P0420 code or oxygen sensor to cause this issue in your vehicle.
Edited by grossgary, 14 July 2014 - 12:19 PM.
Posted 14 July 2014 - 12:33 PM
Posted 14 July 2014 - 01:05 PM
I would probably spray carb cleaner down the holes to clean them out then rotate via/starter (without starting) to get oil moving through it, then start it up to burn off the carb cleaner. I've rotated engines by hand before and seen the oil moving, not sure it'll get to the cylinder by hand though.
Or if you're concerned about getting it in the engine, spray cleaner down with spark plugs in there and then draw it out somehow.
Cranking the engine would get limited oil out, spread it out over the surfaces,and still leave residual oil over everything.
Did you replace the spark plug tube seals and the valve covers?
Those spark plug access holes and wires/boots, plugs themselves all need cleaned and oil free.
Posted 14 July 2014 - 01:39 PM
Posted 14 July 2014 - 01:44 PM
Check the fuel pressure and maybe that fuel pump cap is bleeding off fuel pressure. I've never seen one consistently/for a long time make the car hard to start, it seems once they start to fail, they're done and the car won't start at all.
You can check the timing in a few minutes: pull the drivers side timing belt cover only to check the cam mark and then you should be able to check the crank position mark...hmmmm...i've never actually done it on one this new. older Subaru's had a crank position mark on the flexplate/flywheel and you could verify it throught he bellhousing cover (rubber plug just under the throttle body to the passengers side). or pull the crank sensor to peer in there with a flashlight - though that's likely not enough room.
Even if you just pulled the accessory belts and timing cover, that doesn't take terribly long, i just did one this morning. you don't have to pull the belt, just the covers to check marks.
The caps are fairly easy to check - pull the rear seat bottom and fuel tank access cover.
Posted 14 July 2014 - 07:07 PM
I just recently dealt with a similar issue. I was getting very little power and it would shutter on acceleration. I would actually have to floor it in 1st gear to make it up hills. I replaced the downstream O2, MAF Sensor, Spark Plugs and Wires, and treated my fuel. Nothing.
I had someone rev the engine while I cupped my hands over the exhaust pipes and realized very little was escaping. It never triggered the appropriate codes because it was clogged in an un-monitored resonator/cat thing built into my intermediate pipe. However it did randomly trigger lean A/F ratio type codes (which is what made me spring for the downstream sensor and MAF).
The fix (for me): Removed intermediate pipe, attached wire coat hanger with several twists at end to my battery powered drill and aborted the filling into a shop vac.
Immediately fixed my issue. It actually has more power now than when I purchased.
WARNING: My car's intermediate pipe was un-monitored. This could present a serious issue if done to a vehicles monitored converter.
Posted 15 July 2014 - 02:52 AM
Hooked up right? Maybe a weak pump? I'm afraid to drive to oreilly again to use their scanner and my amazon Bluetooth scanner says no stored faults. I call bs as the light flashed and became constant. So, no codes to post tonight for you guys, but this is my progress.
Thank you so much for the help so far.
Posted 15 July 2014 - 11:43 AM
Posted 15 July 2014 - 10:45 PM
Posted 15 July 2014 - 10:52 PM
you had the water pump out. Fill block by upper hose. BE sure to burp the air pockets, this is critical if the cooling system was open. You may have to hodl a high idle and babysit the thermostat until it opens. Run the heat full hot.
Do the burp procedure before troubleshooting.
Posted 15 July 2014 - 11:28 PM
Posted 16 July 2014 - 10:16 PM
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