Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

ea82 purge control valve


  • Please log in to reply
18 replies to this topic

#1 Houston505

Houston505

    Member

  • Silver Subscribers
  • PipPip
  • 25 posts
  • Albuquerque, New Mexico

Posted 15 July 2014 - 02:46 PM

I have a '92 Loyale ea82 that is giving me error code 35, which seems to be the evap. purge control valve. I checked all the lines running to it and they're all in good shape so I think it's the valve itself. My question is, can I buy that individual valve or do I have to buy a whole evap canister? Looking at it, it doesn't look like the valve (or what I'm assuming is the valve from multiple diagrams) comes off separately from the canister.



#2 naru

naru

    1000+ Super USER!

  • Members
  • 1,790 posts
  • under the bridge

Posted 15 July 2014 - 05:47 PM

Only electrical faults will set the code.

Usually,the coil goes  open in the solenoid.

Check it w/your ohmmeter.Should be close to 35 ohms.

The purge control solenoid is mounted on the RH front of the engine and looks very similar to the EGR solenoid nearby.

I have a spare used one if you need one.

I`ll PM the details.



#3 Houston505

Houston505

    Member

  • Silver Subscribers
  • PipPip
  • 25 posts
  • Albuquerque, New Mexico

Posted 15 July 2014 - 06:49 PM

First off, thanks for your response! This whole having to pass emissions stuff is fairly new to me, I grew up in the sticks and was never needed before. So, the purge solenoid is hooked to the vacuum vent line from the vapor canister(I think). I pulled the hoses off the canister and the one that leads to that solenoid(which is similar to and near the EGR solenoid) and that hose seems to have plenty of vacuum. The hose next to it, which connects right underneath on the canister (purge control valve itself I'm guessing) has absolutely zero air flow through it either direction.


Edited by Houston505, 15 July 2014 - 06:51 PM.


#4 Houston505

Houston505

    Member

  • Silver Subscribers
  • PipPip
  • 25 posts
  • Albuquerque, New Mexico

Posted 15 July 2014 - 07:09 PM

Could it be the vapor canister, or the two way valve inside the vapor canister? Should the line coming from the purge valve on the canister have any air movement through it? I pulled that hose and gave it the old Lewinski, but there's absolutely no flow through it.



#5 naru

naru

    1000+ Super USER!

  • Members
  • 1,790 posts
  • under the bridge

Posted 15 July 2014 - 07:57 PM

Only solenoid circuit electrical faults will set the code.

 

Even if the solenoid is stuck closed or the vacuum lines are broken or plugged code 35 will not be set.

 

It has to be the solenoid,wiring harness or computer.

Pretty safe to assume it is the solenoid,but,they are easy to test.


Edited by naru, 15 July 2014 - 07:59 PM.


#6 Houston505

Houston505

    Member

  • Silver Subscribers
  • PipPip
  • 25 posts
  • Albuquerque, New Mexico

Posted 15 July 2014 - 08:01 PM

Visuals always help me so here's this. The line circled in red on the left is the one that can't be sucked or blown through. The line circled in blue is the one that runs to the purge solenoid, and it seems to have plenty of vacuum. The third line, in green, from what I understand is the incoming line, which I blew into that one too and there was no air coming out either of the other hoses.

Attached Files



#7 Houston505

Houston505

    Member

  • Silver Subscribers
  • PipPip
  • 25 posts
  • Albuquerque, New Mexico

Posted 15 July 2014 - 08:03 PM

Only solenoid circuit electrical faults will set the code.

 

Even if the solenoid is stuck closed or the vacuum lines are broken or plugged code 35 will not be set.

 

It has to be the solenoid,wiring harness or computer.

Pretty safe to assume it is the solenoid,but,they are easy to test.

The purge solenoid has vacuum, that's why this is driving me nuts!



#8 El Presidente

El Presidente

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Members
  • 537 posts
  • Northgate/Seattle, WA

Posted 15 July 2014 - 10:11 PM

The purge solenoid has vacuum, that's why this is driving me nuts!

 

It doesn't always need vacuum.

 

Your not understanding the problem, its has nothing to do with the vapor canister....Nothing...If the lines are intact, just stop looking there all together. Its an electrical issue that's located on your intake manifold. Follow the vacuum lines till one goes to a black boxish thing on the intake right behind the thermostat with a two wire plug. That's what you most likely need to replace or bypass with a 35 ohm resistor. 

 

Josh



#9 MR_Loyale

MR_Loyale

    20 Years of Ownership. 94-14

  • Members
  • 914 posts
  • Seattle

Posted 15 July 2014 - 10:23 PM

Josh is right. You could cut off the hoses for the canister and put  a 35 ohm resistor on that circuit and the computer would never know the difference. (If you get emissions tested, DON'T DO IT THOUGH) The ECU is measuring the resistance across the coil of the solenoid. That is the only basis that it uses to set the code.

 

My other Loyale Ash is also setting this code. If you go to the dealer for this solenoid it will prob run over $100 just for the auto equivalent of a doorbell - same principle.


Edited by MR_Loyale, 15 July 2014 - 10:23 PM.


#10 naru

naru

    1000+ Super USER!

  • Members
  • 1,790 posts
  • under the bridge

Posted 16 July 2014 - 06:34 AM

The purge solenoid has vacuum, that's why this is driving me nuts!

 

The solenoid is normally open.so a failed or unplugged one will apply  continuous manifold vacuum to the purge control valve at the blue circle.



#11 stratman977

stratman977

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 92 posts
  • Belle Vernon, PA

Posted 16 July 2014 - 07:12 AM

Just go to a junkyard and grab a two wire solenoid valve out of another subaru or something else from the early 90's. Someone on here suggested a Ford Tempo and thats what I used. Grab the wire connector so you can splice it in easily. I thin I paid a whopping 3 bucks for one.



#12 Houston505

Houston505

    Member

  • Silver Subscribers
  • PipPip
  • 25 posts
  • Albuquerque, New Mexico

Posted 16 July 2014 - 10:36 AM

That's my plan of action now. Go to UPull and grab 2-3 solenoids and see if any of 'em will fix the issue. If that doesn't work, where do I get a 35ohm resistor and will that pass emissions? They never do a visual inspection here in NM


Edited by Houston505, 16 July 2014 - 10:48 AM.


#13 El Presidente

El Presidente

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Members
  • 537 posts
  • Northgate/Seattle, WA

Posted 16 July 2014 - 09:01 PM

Digi-key, you need a 35 ohm 10 watt resistor.

 

I have a couple ready to install for both the egr valve and the purge valve I'd be up for selling. All joints are soldered and the entire unit is sealed in rtv silicone and heat shrink tube. They have the stock plug that the old solenoids use so it fits right in. $20 - PM me if interested.

 

Josh



#14 Houston505

Houston505

    Member

  • Silver Subscribers
  • PipPip
  • 25 posts
  • Albuquerque, New Mexico

Posted 17 July 2014 - 03:17 PM

Status: I pulled a few solenoid valves ( and a vapor canister for S's and G's) put them in and no more code 35. However, now I'm getting code 34, EGR solenoid/valve. I put a brand new EGR valve in it and am going to try a few of the solenoids I pulled yesterday to see if they'll correct the issue (waiting for the car and weather to cool down a bit first). I did notice when I put the new purge components in, my idle seemed to be A LOT smoother than it was before, but after shutting it off and starting it again the idle was rough and that's when I pulled the code 34. I know on newer cars if you have a CEL on it will rob some of the power or make the car run different, is this the same with the ea82?



#15 Houston505

Houston505

    Member

  • Silver Subscribers
  • PipPip
  • 25 posts
  • Albuquerque, New Mexico

Posted 17 July 2014 - 03:55 PM

After I put the new solenoid in will the CEL just go away or do I have to clear the code?



#16 Houston505

Houston505

    Member

  • Silver Subscribers
  • PipPip
  • 25 posts
  • Albuquerque, New Mexico

Posted 17 July 2014 - 07:57 PM

Swapped solenoids, car seems to be running fine but the CEL is still on and it's giving me the same code (34). Do I need to clear the code to get the CEL to go off? Also, my Chiltons says to clear the code you just plug the read and memory connectors together, but it doesn't say if or when to unplug them....I'm very close to having a Loyale bon-fire...



#17 El Presidente

El Presidente

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Members
  • 537 posts
  • Northgate/Seattle, WA

Posted 17 July 2014 - 10:34 PM

Just unplug the battery pos+, wait a few minutes and then put it back on. Start the car and the code should be gone.

 

The light usually goes right out for me, whats the resistance of the solenoids your using?

 

Josh


Edited by El Presidente, 17 July 2014 - 10:36 PM.


#18 Houston505

Houston505

    Member

  • Silver Subscribers
  • PipPip
  • 25 posts
  • Albuquerque, New Mexico

Posted 22 July 2014 - 12:12 PM

Had to step away from it for a few days before I drove it off a bridge, lol. I finally got rid of that pesky CEL! Had to try 3 different EGR solenoids before I swapped connectors on one of my purge solenoids and stuck that in there. CEL is gone and I'm not getting any other codes, so hopefully no more issues with that.



#19 Houston505

Houston505

    Member

  • Silver Subscribers
  • PipPip
  • 25 posts
  • Albuquerque, New Mexico

Posted 22 July 2014 - 03:18 PM

Now on to the fun stuff!






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users