Houston505 Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I have a '92 Loyale ea82 that is giving me error code 35, which seems to be the evap. purge control valve. I checked all the lines running to it and they're all in good shape so I think it's the valve itself. My question is, can I buy that individual valve or do I have to buy a whole evap canister? Looking at it, it doesn't look like the valve (or what I'm assuming is the valve from multiple diagrams) comes off separately from the canister. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Only electrical faults will set the code. Usually,the coil goes open in the solenoid. Check it w/your ohmmeter.Should be close to 35 ohms. The purge control solenoid is mounted on the RH front of the engine and looks very similar to the EGR solenoid nearby. I have a spare used one if you need one. I`ll PM the details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Houston505 Posted July 15, 2014 Author Share Posted July 15, 2014 (edited) First off, thanks for your response! This whole having to pass emissions stuff is fairly new to me, I grew up in the sticks and was never needed before. So, the purge solenoid is hooked to the vacuum vent line from the vapor canister(I think). I pulled the hoses off the canister and the one that leads to that solenoid(which is similar to and near the EGR solenoid) and that hose seems to have plenty of vacuum. The hose next to it, which connects right underneath on the canister (purge control valve itself I'm guessing) has absolutely zero air flow through it either direction. Edited July 15, 2014 by Houston505 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Houston505 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Could it be the vapor canister, or the two way valve inside the vapor canister? Should the line coming from the purge valve on the canister have any air movement through it? I pulled that hose and gave it the old Lewinski, but there's absolutely no flow through it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 (edited) Only solenoid circuit electrical faults will set the code. Even if the solenoid is stuck closed or the vacuum lines are broken or plugged code 35 will not be set. It has to be the solenoid,wiring harness or computer. Pretty safe to assume it is the solenoid,but,they are easy to test. Edited July 16, 2014 by naru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Houston505 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Visuals always help me so here's this. The line circled in red on the left is the one that can't be sucked or blown through. The line circled in blue is the one that runs to the purge solenoid, and it seems to have plenty of vacuum. The third line, in green, from what I understand is the incoming line, which I blew into that one too and there was no air coming out either of the other hoses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Houston505 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Only solenoid circuit electrical faults will set the code. Even if the solenoid is stuck closed or the vacuum lines are broken or plugged code 35 will not be set. It has to be the solenoid,wiring harness or computer. Pretty safe to assume it is the solenoid,but,they are easy to test. The purge solenoid has vacuum, that's why this is driving me nuts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 The purge solenoid has vacuum, that's why this is driving me nuts! It doesn't always need vacuum. Your not understanding the problem, its has nothing to do with the vapor canister....Nothing...If the lines are intact, just stop looking there all together. Its an electrical issue that's located on your intake manifold. Follow the vacuum lines till one goes to a black boxish thing on the intake right behind the thermostat with a two wire plug. That's what you most likely need to replace or bypass with a 35 ohm resistor. Josh 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 (edited) Josh is right. You could cut off the hoses for the canister and put a 35 ohm resistor on that circuit and the computer would never know the difference. (If you get emissions tested, DON'T DO IT THOUGH) The ECU is measuring the resistance across the coil of the solenoid. That is the only basis that it uses to set the code. My other Loyale Ash is also setting this code. If you go to the dealer for this solenoid it will prob run over $100 just for the auto equivalent of a doorbell - same principle. Edited July 16, 2014 by MR_Loyale 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 The purge solenoid has vacuum, that's why this is driving me nuts! The solenoid is normally open.so a failed or unplugged one will apply continuous manifold vacuum to the purge control valve at the blue circle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stratman977 Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Just go to a junkyard and grab a two wire solenoid valve out of another subaru or something else from the early 90's. Someone on here suggested a Ford Tempo and thats what I used. Grab the wire connector so you can splice it in easily. I thin I paid a whopping 3 bucks for one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Houston505 Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 (edited) That's my plan of action now. Go to UPull and grab 2-3 solenoids and see if any of 'em will fix the issue. If that doesn't work, where do I get a 35ohm resistor and will that pass emissions? They never do a visual inspection here in NM Edited July 16, 2014 by Houston505 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 Digi-key, you need a 35 ohm 10 watt resistor. I have a couple ready to install for both the egr valve and the purge valve I'd be up for selling. All joints are soldered and the entire unit is sealed in rtv silicone and heat shrink tube. They have the stock plug that the old solenoids use so it fits right in. $20 - PM me if interested. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Houston505 Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 Status: I pulled a few solenoid valves ( and a vapor canister for S's and G's) put them in and no more code 35. However, now I'm getting code 34, EGR solenoid/valve. I put a brand new EGR valve in it and am going to try a few of the solenoids I pulled yesterday to see if they'll correct the issue (waiting for the car and weather to cool down a bit first). I did notice when I put the new purge components in, my idle seemed to be A LOT smoother than it was before, but after shutting it off and starting it again the idle was rough and that's when I pulled the code 34. I know on newer cars if you have a CEL on it will rob some of the power or make the car run different, is this the same with the ea82? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Houston505 Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 After I put the new solenoid in will the CEL just go away or do I have to clear the code? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Houston505 Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 Swapped solenoids, car seems to be running fine but the CEL is still on and it's giving me the same code (34). Do I need to clear the code to get the CEL to go off? Also, my Chiltons says to clear the code you just plug the read and memory connectors together, but it doesn't say if or when to unplug them....I'm very close to having a Loyale bon-fire... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 (edited) Just unplug the battery pos+, wait a few minutes and then put it back on. Start the car and the code should be gone. The light usually goes right out for me, whats the resistance of the solenoids your using? Josh Edited July 18, 2014 by El Presidente Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Houston505 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Had to step away from it for a few days before I drove it off a bridge, lol. I finally got rid of that pesky CEL! Had to try 3 different EGR solenoids before I swapped connectors on one of my purge solenoids and stuck that in there. CEL is gone and I'm not getting any other codes, so hopefully no more issues with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Houston505 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Now on to the fun stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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