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D/r swap tips?


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8 replies to this topic

#1 Subinoobi

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Posted 22 July 2014 - 02:50 AM

So I plan on grabbing a d/r trans for my 90 loyale this weekend, I was just wondering what little I should look for to ensure it's a solid trans. I know you can't tell much without driving it but if theres any tips you guys have I would love to hear them. Also any tips on making the dropping process easier? Should I just pull the engine and drop it from there or leave the engine in? What basic seals should I replace while I have it out before I drop it in my loyale? Thanks guys! :)



#2 Ibreakstuff

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Posted 22 July 2014 - 07:42 AM

Personally I stick my finger in the drain hole looking for metal and then blindly check how well it shifts into each gear. Look for a car that stopped for an obvious reason.

 

At my local pick n pulls most cars are in the air, so my general process is:
remove shifter assembly above and below

disconnect engine from trans..

(pitch stopper/starter/pressure plate bolts/bellhouse bolts/clutch cable/disconnect trans harness/etc)

punch out the axle pins, they will separate when the trans drops

stack up a bunch of tires under and drop the transmission onto them using a rattle gun

leave the 2 trans x-member bolts for last for "safety"
kick out the lowest tire until you can wrestle it out

 

I know I forgot a couple of steps but that is the general idea.

Must warn you not to trust the "jack stands" they use at PnP, I've had some close calls. I saw a guy smash his face with a ford explorer gearbox once too, if the shifter/bell housing didn't get wedged dude would be dead for sure 100%.



#3 Subinoobi

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 11:37 PM

Personally I stick my finger in the drain hole looking for metal and then blindly check how well it shifts into each gear. Look for a car that stopped for an obvious reason.
 
At my local pick n pulls most cars are in the air, so my general process is:
remove shifter assembly above and below
disconnect engine from trans..
(pitch stopper/starter/pressure plate bolts/bellhouse bolts/clutch cable/disconnect trans harness/etc)
punch out the axle pins, they will separate when the trans drops
stack up a bunch of tires under and drop the transmission onto them using a rattle gun
leave the 2 trans x-member bolts for last for "safety"
kick out the lowest tire until you can wrestle it out
 
I know I forgot a couple of steps but that is the general idea.
Must warn you not to trust the "jack stands" they use at PnP, I've had some close calls. I saw a guy smash his face with a ford explorer gearbox once too, if the shifter/bell housing didn't get wedged dude would be dead for sure 100%.


Wow that's crazy! Yeah I'll definitely be careful on that.

Do I need to fully remove the axles or can I just punch out the pin and maneuver them out of my way?

#4 Ibreakstuff

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 11:45 PM

Wow that's crazy! Yeah I'll definitely be careful on that.

Do I need to fully remove the axles or can I just punch out the pin and maneuver them out of my way?

 

Indeed, it changed my approach to working under cars at PnP. Be careful out there.  :headbang: 

I just punch the pins, the axles (usually) just slip out when pulling the box back/dropping it down.



#5 Subinoobi

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 11:45 PM

Also what all is included in removing the shifter assembly below? I'm assuming from above is the console and 4wd shifter right?

#6 Subinoobi

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 11:48 PM

Indeed, it changed my approach to working under cars at PnP. Be careful out there.  :headbang: 
I just punch the pins, the axles (usually) just slip out when pulling the box back/dropping it down.


Good, that simplifies things! :D I apologize for the seeming stupid question I've just never dropped a trans so I want to get a good picture in my head before I get underneath it.

#7 Ibreakstuff

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 12:03 AM

Good, that simplifies things! :D I apologize for the seeming stupid question I've just never dropped a trans so I want to get a good picture in my head before I get underneath it.

 

No worries, I completely understand. If you encounter any hiccups, let us know.

The first one will take awhile, each after that will get faster and easier.

Trying to think of any other tips.. If the motor/trans is being stubborn to separate, even with the pressure plate bolts loosened/removed, loosen the lower engine mount bolts and rock the motor side to side/front to back. 

That's all I got.. good luck.



#8 Ibreakstuff

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 12:25 AM

Also what all is included in removing the shifter assembly below? I'm assuming from above is the console and 4wd shifter right?

 

I missed this question, sorry. I usually leave the whole assembly together and drop it down (do this before you separate the engine/trans or it will get wedged). If I forget/impatient or just don't need it I just rattle it apart.



#9 stratman977

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 07:04 AM

Make sure you grab the rubber bumper that holds the shifter up. It's bolted to the underside of the tunnel. I believe youre going to need the axles for the swap so unless you plan to get new ones you probably should pull them.

 

Grab the electrical connectors from the engine side of the transmission, the front half of the drive shaft, crossmeber bolts, rubber bumpers from the crossmember, flywheel, flywheel bolts, pedal assembly, clutch cable. I would also grab the bracket from the hill holder cable even if you don't plan to put the hill holder in. It gives you a place to hook a return spring to. Also get an extra brake light switch and a few two pin wiring conenctors off of what every you can find so you can bypass the neutral safety switch. Those conenctors come in handy and look stock so I would grab a few.

 

If youre going to try to swap the gage clusters get the body side wiring harness to go with it cause you will need to do some splicing.






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