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Re-packed and booted my orignal Front CV axles last month due to both Trans side boots ripping.  I went with the Re-pack option because I was weary of inferior parts from over-seas.

 

They just started clicking last week.  So bascically I wasted my time and now I'm going to need to purchase something.

 

Any "tried-and-true" suggestions on some budget axels?

 

On Rock Auto's website I can get some A1Cardone's anywhere between 60-80/ea., Napa gets around 135 (after core)...Yadda yadda, feedback time.

 

Thanks in advance.

Edited by Mr.Atlantis
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I can double check nuts, but I should probably mention that when I slipped the axel side cover off to remove old grease - the 3 bearings fell on the table and I completely lost the original positions.  I installed them correctly, but bearings may have switched or flipped.  Damn thing was too greasy to hold let alone keep track of bearings.

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I just bought EMPI/Empire axles for by '84 Brat - they are really nice so far. www.rockauto.com seems to have them for your 2008 (if I looked it up right) for ~$60.00 and no core cost.

Yep, that sounds about right for my Outback.  Thanks for the feedback.

Edited by Mr.Atlantis
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typically the inner OEm cv joints never fail...

 

... but I should probably mention that when I slipped the axel side cover off to remove old grease - the 3 bearings fell on the table and I completely lost the original positions.  I installed them correctly, but bearings may have switched or flipped.  Damn thing was too greasy to hold let alone keep track of bearings.

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I've heard good things about the axles from Car Quest.

World PAC is the name I believe.

 

I've bought one, haven't installed yet been waiting for my failing one to start clicking after I rebooted.

They do have a life time Warranty too.

Edited by Dinky26
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I've heard good things about the axles from Car Quest.

World PAC is the name I believe.

 

I've bought one, haven't installed yet been waiting for my failing one to start clicking after I rebooted.

They do have a life time Warranty too.

Car Quest and NAPA get same parts right?  Either-way, I've received better reviews from those two and the opposite from Advanced and Autozone.

 

get some real soob units from car-part.com and rebuild them.

 

Raxles.com

 

FWE in Colorado (was MWE - Shawn has them ; http://retroroo.com/subaru-axles-denvercolorado/ )

 

just some more ideas.

I'll look into this, but I fear the frustration involved with rebuilding again..

 

I went with an EMPI shaft from RockAuto for our one Forester (3) years ago and it's still going strong.

Tried and true, exactly what I like to hear!  Thank you.

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Strange because I don't think the inner joints click when failing, only the outer joints. Any chance you screwed up the reinstall? Cone washer installed wrong/ditto for washer/insufficient nut torque? 

I got to thinking...  When I replaced the axles, I also installed new Oil Seals and O-Rings.  I counted the turns when I removed the retainers and was sure to re-install them the same.  As to not allow the beveled bearings to fall out I replaced one at a time by turning trans on to side allowing gravity to keep all gears and bearings in place.  Would noise come from my case if this 'lash' adjustment wasn't performed absolutely, dead nuts perfect?  I mean, even if I knew the exact gap between retainer and bearing surface - how could one even get an accurate measurement?  It's a sealed enclosure once installed :wacko:

 

Could I give each side an extra 1/8 of a turn tighter in hopes of fixing the chatter?  Or would that introduce a whole world of messy stuff?

Edited by Mr.Atlantis
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You could try swapping them side to side.  

 

 

I may do that, but I also kept one of my old axles. I may get enthusiastic and rebuild that one to swap back in.

 

EMPI was sold/bought BETWEEN my purchases and, evidently, there have been more problems now than previously. They may be called Empire now ?

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Could I give each side an extra 1/8 of a turn tighter in hopes of fixing the chatter?  Or would that introduce a whole world of messy stuff?

 

No.  1/8th of a turn is 45 degrees which would be 5 or 6 notches......WAAAAY too much

 

Really you shouldn't mess with it at all......if you installed them back to the proper marks......that's were it should be.

 

Bearing preload is only part of it.  The cup position also sets the R+P engangement....so messing with it messes with the teeth of that gear which could wreck the R+P

 

And bearing preload doesn't have any effect on CV axles.....if they are clicking after a regrease/boot...... they are just old...time for new ones.

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No.  1/8th of a turn is 45 degrees which would be 5 or 6 notches......WAAAAY too much

 

Really you shouldn't mess with it at all......if you installed them back to the proper marks......that's were it should be.

 

Bearing preload is only part of it.  The cup position also sets the R+P engangement....so messing with it messes with the teeth of that gear which could wreck the R+P

 

And bearing preload doesn't have any effect on CV axles.....if they are clicking after a regrease/boot...... they are just old...time for new ones.

Ok, I'll leave them alone.  I'll just replace the axles soon.

 

What do you mean when you say "R+P engagment"?  Not sure I know the meaning of this...

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Ring and pinion gears/front differential. The "lash", how they engage, has to be just about dead on or failure is very likely. 

I never took the gears out of the case, I just unscrewed the caps to get the oil seals and o-rings out.  However, the gears inside were in my opinion free-floating in the case when I took the caps off.  As in, I could have easily removed them, or turned them and whatnot.

 

When I first started to unscrew the driver's side, I had the transmission sitting in it's 'as installed position', and I noticed a beveled gear trying to follow the cap out as I unscrewed it.  I quickly turned the case on its side to allow gravity to hold it in there.

 

I was refering to the axel cups and bearing orientation earlier.

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