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Ellevehc's gl build thread


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#1 ellevehc

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 11:20 AM

https://onedrive.liv...thint=photo,jpg

 

Picked up a 1987 Subaru GL Wagon. Drove it back several hundred miles and it seemed to do ok, but it is in need of a build! I plan on keeping everything together in this one thread. Ok so I guess I should add a little background on how I got it and the trip. I posted up on here asking for anyone to post up if they were selling. I had someone contact me and everything seemed to be pretty spot on. Except that it was a bit far away. I live in Seattle and the car was in the Medford Oregon area. So the trip would be from Bellevue/Seattle to Medford. It was about time for a trip anyone and the car seemed like it would do just fine on the trip back. A friend and I drove down and waited about an hour, it all seemed at a loss until finally the seller responded... It was a tense period of waiting. I check out the car and everything seemed fine. A few minor things, but nothing too bad seemed to stand out. Got the car for 900. And we were off! I test drove it gently because it wasnt my car yet, but when we were merging onto the highway I realized that I would be in a world of stress. Massive hesitation at half throttle, and it is a struggle getting to 60. After some stressful merging onto the highway and a few hill climbs trying to keep it at 50mph and not getting run over I had a flashback...."Damn, this Kia Rio is total crap, I dont think I will ever drive something this slow again in my life"... I was wrong. We decided that we should just get onto highway 101 and take the scenic route. During which time we camped out over night and I started having my clunking and rattling which ended up being the hub and stub shaft. We got separated at Portland where my friend had my phone...the phone case had my id in it... the tabs were 1 day expired... There was heavy traffic and some cops... I was terrified. But fortunately nothing came of it and we managed to get back together after someone at a rest stop let me use their phone. He was a bit far ahead, and I almost ran out of gas... with no phone or wallet. BUT! It made it home :D

 

Goals: 

4" lift with stock geometry (Stock geometry because it will spend most of its' time on road, I think SJR and AA can do it? Let me know if youre selling)

27s

Tune EA82 for fuel efficiency (after setting stock timing, wont be going weber unless I can get everything setup for $75)

Maybe EJ22 swap, but that would be WAY down the road.

Timing belt (It probably really needs one at 237k miles)

Rear wheel HUB and probably half shaft stub shaft for the rear hub

Door locks... Unlocks when door closes...Strange

Roof rack

Light bar 

Cruise control

Primer rattle can "paint job"

EGR light?

Tailgate struts (oreilly gave me the wrong ones twice... Will probably just end up using a small stick/pole to hold it up.

Driver side cv axle (torn boot)

 

That about sums it up, for now.

 

Currently need to figure out the carb and timing belt. I have built my fair share of qjets, holleys, eddys, etc but have never touched a Hitachi. If you have any tips or tricks to getting the most mileage out of these post up or send a link to the thread where its' at. 

 

Right now the carb has a nasty hesitation at half throttle, and getting pretty bad gas mileage. Also, dear god WHY are there so many hoses!!!?? Ill be looking for stock settings, post up if they come to your mind. 

 

Also here is a video of the hub/half shaft problem. Oreilly couldnt find any of the parts, so maybe you guys know the part numbers for what I should replace. 

 

 

For the tailgate what is the difference between: http://www.autoparts...Parts & Mirrors

 

and 

 

http://www.autoparts...Parts & Mirrors


Edited by ellevehc, 05 August 2014 - 09:30 PM.


#2 AKghandi

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 12:52 PM

most of that is minor but as far as the door locks ar concerned you have to hold the handle up when you close the door for it to stay locked, its a import car thing. its actually easier to break into these cars than it is to lock your keys in

 

 

the rear hub problem will have to be a junk yard find, you need the "stub shaft" it will be a challenge to get it out but a big hammer and a block of wood inbetween to keep it from gettin damged and you'll get it done

 

here's the PN for the hub/ drum http://www.oreillyau... drums!s!rotors


Edited by AKghandi, 03 August 2014 - 12:55 PM.


#3 ellevehc

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 01:12 PM

most of that is minor but as far as the door locks ar concerned you have to hold the handle up when you close the door for it to stay locked, its a import car thing. its actually easier to break into these cars than it is to lock your keys in

 

 

the rear hub problem will have to be a junk yard find, you need the "stub shaft" it will be a challenge to get it out but a big hammer and a block of wood inbetween to keep it from gettin damged and you'll get it done

 

here's the PN for the hub/ drum http://www.oreillyau... drums!s!rotors

Interesting little design with the door handles. 

 

So the stub shaft is not part of the half shaft/cv axle? (Still trying to pick up the terminology, have only dealt with live rears)

 

Thanks for the part number. There arent are junkyards around Bellevue Washington :( At least the ones I am aware of. Ill search around again though.



#4 ellevehc

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 04:50 PM

Bit of an update. I will be setting the timing to 16* BTDC then checking the float level. Let me know if you guys have run other timing with success.


Edited by ellevehc, 03 August 2014 - 04:50 PM.


#5 Mykeys Toy

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 07:32 PM

Great story!  Glad everything worked out for you.  That car should be getting close to 30 mpg so you got some work ahead of you.

   There are a few yards in your neck of the woods.  Lynnwood PNP, Arlington PNP and a private yard in Lake Stevens.  Row52 is your friend trust me for all the hard to come by parts.

 

Good luck!

Mike



#6 AKghandi

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 08:47 PM

Interesting little design with the door handles. 

 

So the stub shaft is not part of the half shaft/cv axle? (Still trying to pick up the terminology, have only dealt with live rears)

 

Thanks for the part number. There arent are junkyards around Bellevue Washington :( At least the ones I am aware of. Ill search around again though.

the stub is not part of the rear cv axle, there is a roll pin that holds the cup to it. sometimes though if the axle has been there a while they will not want to separate. what i usually do is get the roll pin out, soak it with pb blaster tap it with a hammer a few times and then take it down the high way. dont worry it wont come off it will just loosen it



#7 ellevehc

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Posted 04 August 2014 - 12:37 AM

Great story!  Glad everything worked out for you.  That car should be getting close to 30 mpg so you got some work ahead of you.

   There are a few yards in your neck of the woods.  Lynnwood PNP, Arlington PNP and a private yard in Lake Stevens.  Row52 is your friend trust me for all the hard to come by parts.

 

Good luck!

Mike

 

Yeah 30 sounds a lot better than my other cars sub 15. Ill mark those down. So I take it I will have to get the drive shafts/stub shafts from a junker car by pounding them out? Row52 is a member? Or a junkyard location?

 

Anyway, update on the carb stuff.

 

Set the timing to about 16-18* BTDC. Hoses... I really dont like the hoses. Half of them didnt seem to do a thing! I assume I only NEED timing advance, PCV, and brake booster hoses? Or do others actually play a vital role? Either way they are plugged in... most of them... I think... hope... After setting the timing I went to the carb and turned the air fuel all the way in. It was about 7 turns out. Too mucho turno out. I set it at 2.5 and got the idle to around 750 with ac on. I drove it around and the idle kicked up to 1200! Not sure why. I backed off the idle again to 750 and it was a little rough. Set the air fuel to 3 turns. It seems to be ok. Drove it around some more and it seemed fine going from the idle to cruise circuit. However, secondary (do these even have that?) opening up had a hesitation. I am pretty sure these are vacuum driven "secondaries" and not mechanical. Also I never did the float level, I was too mesmerized with the hoses. But it seems as those I may have to pull the carb and go through it with some fishing line. Going to run seafoam and see if that will help. 30 mpg seems like a long shot right now. 

 

the stub is not part of the rear cv axle, there is a roll pin that holds the cup to it. sometimes though if the axle has been there a while they will not want to separate. what i usually do is get the roll pin out, soak it with pb blaster tap it with a hammer a few times and then take it down the high way. dont worry it wont come off it will just loosen it

 

 

Ok gotcha that makes sense. Are there certain model years/models to avoid? If I go to a junkyard I would like to not limit myself to just one model, hopefully other Subaru cars had that stub shaft?



#8 ellevehc

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Posted 04 August 2014 - 12:47 AM

Oh yeah I forgot to mention. I have a wideband O2 sensor setup that I never got around to installing on my other car. How would you guys wire it up? It would probably make this tuning much easier. Anyone in the area is welcome to come use it if they need it too. Comes with software that makes pretty graphs.



#9 AKghandi

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Posted 04 August 2014 - 03:04 AM

most of the time the factory settings on the carb are ok.

if you go about removing things then its worth messing with. if its really a problem weber it. there are alot of threads about this. its the best bang for buck with a carbed engine. more power and if tuned properly better mileage.

 

 

the stubs should be the same on all ea82 4wd cars. unless i missed something.

 

also dont forget the cone washer and flat washer, these are very important, hub, then cone washer then flat washer with the rounded side out then the nut, torque the bejezzus out of it, i usually stand on the breaker bar. i think the tq number is 150ftlb 


Edited by AKghandi, 04 August 2014 - 03:09 AM.


#10 AKghandi

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Posted 04 August 2014 - 03:05 AM

im pretty sure the timing on the carbed cars is 8* btdc. any more and it pings. and loses power.

 

have you sprayed all the hoses with starter fluid or the likes to check for vacuum leaks?


Edited by AKghandi, 04 August 2014 - 03:10 AM.


#11 Mykeys Toy

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Posted 04 August 2014 - 07:13 AM

Do a google search for row 52.  You can search multiple wrecking yards at once for a specific car.  This saves a lot of time.


Edited by Mykeys Toy, 04 August 2014 - 07:14 AM.


#12 ellevehc

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Posted 04 August 2014 - 02:26 PM

most of the time the factory settings on the carb are ok.

if you go about removing things then its worth messing with. if its really a problem weber it. there are alot of threads about this. its the best bang for buck with a carbed engine. more power and if tuned properly better mileage.

 

 

the stubs should be the same on all ea82 4wd cars. unless i missed something.

 

also dont forget the cone washer and flat washer, these are very important, hub, then cone washer then flat washer with the rounded side out then the nut, torque the bejezzus out of it, i usually stand on the breaker bar. i think the tq number is 150ftlb 

Yeah I have been looking up weber and I may end up running one. Getting the carb out is looking to be more work than I expected. Looks like I would have to remove A LOT of other things to get the whole thing out. I just removed the top end and sprayed the tunnels through with carb cleaner. Nothing seems clogged up. I did strip the bottom press nozzle tip and will need to get a new one ... sigh... But hopefully it will clear up. The jetting is 70,100. Not sure if that is stock or not. Pump doesnt have any rips and seems to pump ok. Not sure where the transitionary circuit is. Ill need to pick up a 36mm socket. I have a decent breaker bar. 

 

im pretty sure the timing on the carbed cars is 8* btdc. any more and it pings. and loses power.

 

have you sprayed all the hoses with starter fluid or the likes to check for vacuum leaks?

Yeah it seems to run much better with the 18 or so. Thats around what I run on my 350. Wouldnt think combustion dynamics change that much between the two. I havent heard any knocking or pinging. Getting better power though. Slightly. 

 

Do a google search for row 52.  You can search multiple wrecking yards at once for a specific car.  This saves a lot of time.

Yeah I looked around, it is exactly what I was looking for in the past! I should be able to pick everything up within a week or so. Just really want to get the carb sorted out first. 



#13 ellevehc

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Posted 04 August 2014 - 04:53 PM

I may just end up going with a weber. But going to try to tune it for mileage instead of power. The power valve in the hitachi is busted and its $40 for a rebuild kit, from which I would only use the power valve... I found a Weber that has "50 miles" on it for 160. The part number is 43860. Also a used K551 for 100. I tried googling around for model and part numbers as to what would match up but end up getting a lot of less than useful results. 

 

I am also too spoiled with the basic Chevy carbs. I need these vacuum lines gone!



#14 ellevehc

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Posted 04 August 2014 - 05:03 PM

Ok so found these guys are the closest to me. A bunch of early 90s legacys and a justy. Would the shafts swap over from them? Thought I would post it up while I checked elsewhere. http://row52.com/Sea...e=1&IsVin=false

 

Those are the only things between 1980 to 1994 within 25 miles of me. :( 

 

Whats nice is that I think I will also be able to get the hub while I am at it! 



#15 ellevehc

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Posted 05 August 2014 - 09:31 PM

Just noticed that the front drivers side cv boot is torn really bad. Guess I will be looking at that on thursday too! If anyone is going picking and pulling on thursday in tacoma let me know! Ill be there probably most of the day. 



#16 ellevehc

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Posted 07 August 2014 - 05:13 PM

Ok so  update. Went to the pick and pull. It was overall... a failure... I could not get the axle nut off let alone the shaft out. Im not really sure what part number the shaft is new. I did though pick up a 32/36 DGEV172. It is practically new! Also came with filter. All for 160. Hopefully this is a decent carb for these. I may pick up an electric choke if needed. It is my pretty paperweight for now while I figure out what adapter to get. 



#17 Mykeys Toy

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Posted 07 August 2014 - 05:58 PM

The trick to axle nuts is usually a friend or a long bar/ lug wrench pry bar etc.  The weber is a good find just check around for the jets sizing and such..  Maybe someone that is a little more weber savvy will chime in.  you will need a base adapter many of us use the weber base adapter but there is another made by trnsdapt or someting that from what I hear works better or fits better I don't recall off hand.

 

Mike



#18 ellevehc

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Posted 07 August 2014 - 07:40 PM

Ok cool. Ill support someone local if they make the adapter. 

 

Yeah I tried several things. Problem was keeping the wheel from rotating. These cars are sitting in the air. The rears are drums so I cant just stick a screwdriver in the disc. Put on a tire and stuff one underneath. Not enough traction. Used the jack to "hold" a stud while I tried to rotate but it just compressed the suspension. It would have been easier with two people. 

 

Just checked and the jets say 160/170 air correctors. I didnt know the jets were so easily accessible on these.

 

Ok stats on carb: The top jets are 160/170. I think these are the air correctors. The jets inside the fuel bowl are both 140. The primary idle jet (larger one) is 60 and the secondary idle jet(?) is 50


Edited by ellevehc, 07 August 2014 - 08:18 PM.


#19 ellevehc

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Posted 08 August 2014 - 09:47 PM

Ok so looks like I need to get the weber on asap. The hitachi is eating fuel pretty quick. I drove like a granny and got just above 15mpg. That is not bueno. I noticed that on the weber the secondary starts opening before the primary is fully opened. I have been curious about running it with the secondary turned off. 



#20 Mykeys Toy

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Posted 08 August 2014 - 11:20 PM

  It sounds like you know your way around a car pretty well so it is only a difference in how things are put together. Maybe try searching outside the forum may net you some better redults.I know we are not exclusive with using webers so samurai, jeep and yota forums are likely to pop up.  As for the adapter I think scott in bellingham adapted the intake instead of using the adapter but you could try dropping him a PM.  He might be able to do something for you.  I have talked with him a few times and he is genuinely a nice guy..  Granted it has been a few years and he has since opened his own machine shop. since then.

 

One other thing.  The build threads are in the members ride section.  A mod may move this for you at some point.  The general forum tends to be questions and showing off and just chatter bout the subes.  Be as specific as you can when you want to know something and dont be afraid to start a new thread for differing issues.  Hope this helps some


Edited by Mykeys Toy, 08 August 2014 - 11:24 PM.


#21 AKghandi

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 02:27 AM

Yeah it seems to run much better with the 18 or so. Thats around what I run on my 350. Wouldnt think combustion dynamics change that much between the two. I havent heard any knocking or pinging. Getting better power though. Slightly. 

 

The timing on the carbs cars is 8* yes 18 on a 350 is correct but the ea series engine is a shorter stroke and thus needs less timing..

 

if thats the way it worked, all cars would run the same timing.

 

trust me follow the procedure for setting the timing and put it at 8*

 

 

when i first got my car the timing  was set at around 20* it would overheat and ping under heavy load. since then i have fixed it and not had an issue



#22 ellevehc

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 12:20 PM

  It sounds like you know your way around a car pretty well so it is only a difference in how things are put together. Maybe try searching outside the forum may net you some better redults.I know we are not exclusive with using webers so samurai, jeep and yota forums are likely to pop up.  As for the adapter I think scott in bellingham adapted the intake instead of using the adapter but you could try dropping him a PM.  He might be able to do something for you.  I have talked with him a few times and he is genuinely a nice guy..  Granted it has been a few years and he has since opened his own machine shop. since then.

 

One other thing.  The build threads are in the members ride section.  A mod may move this for you at some point.  The general forum tends to be questions and showing off and just chatter bout the subes.  Be as specific as you can when you want to know something and dont be afraid to start a new thread for differing issues.  Hope this helps some

 

I know my gm A body cars a bit but have a lot to learn. I have been googling around a bit and getting bits and pieces of information. Ill have to contact him about the adapter. 

 

Yeah hopefully a mod will give it a move to the right section. Ill be sure to post up more threads. Just wish the search function was a little better, seems a bit cluttered.

The timing on the carbs cars is 8* yes 18 on a 350 is correct but the ea series engine is a shorter stroke and thus needs less timing..

 

if thats the way it worked, all cars would run the same timing.

 

trust me follow the procedure for setting the timing and put it at 8*

 

 

when i first got my car the timing  was set at around 20* it would overheat and ping under heavy load. since then i have fixed it and not had an issue

 

Ok ill set it back. I didnt take the stroke into account. 



#23 AKghandi

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 02:23 PM

Some have reported that running about 10-12 nets good results but i like to trust subaru with their numbers

#24 ellevehc

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 07:49 PM

Ok so looking more into this shaft problem... Is there going to be a way to remove it without making too much noise? Its a "no work" apartment complex so I do everything after management leaves and the neighbors dont mind because I help them with their cars. But I cant be hammering on a pressed in shaft right below someones home. Any ideas? Because I may be stuck with 3wd, or probably 2wd since there is no locker...

 

Edit: I think I may have to just replace the entire trailing arm. It should be a much easier pull from the yard too. 


Edited by ellevehc, 09 August 2014 - 08:03 PM.


#25 AKghandi

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 11:29 PM

it will make noise, but if you use a block of wood between the stub and the hammer it shouldnt make too much noise. the block of wood is a good idea just to keep the threads on the end of the stub from gettin ruined.

 

you can take the whole rear drive train out and still drive it. rear axles rear diff and the rear half of the drive shaft can all be removed  to make it 2wd and you will get better mileage.

 

 

 

if you get a new stub and hub it wont take more than an hour to swap them

 

just drive to a selcuded street and do it, or drive out into the woods.


Edited by AKghandi, 09 August 2014 - 11:32 PM.





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