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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Please help- EA82 Major hesitation/ rough idle. Out of stuff to try.


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9 replies to this topic

#1 jmoff

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 02:06 PM

Hi all, 

 

So, I've been having some problems with my 88 Lifted GL Wagon.  I'm all out of stuff to try.   

 

The problem includes very rough idle, and major hesitation (bogging down, etc).   The car is currently undrivable.  

 

The real bummer is the smog is now up (CA), so I can't re-register it.  

 

Here's where I'm at:  

 

-I replaced the EGR and gasket- no change

-I replaced the plugs and wires- no change

-I replaced the Throttle position sensor with a used one- no change

-I replaced the Ignition Coil- No change

-I had a new-ish idle air control valve, but swapped in another, just to see- no major change

-I made a new paper gasket for the IAC- no change

 

I thought it might be a vac leak, and took it to the mechanic to try and diagnose.  He said he didn't see anything, but I'm still not convinced he looked really really really hard.   Who knows.  I don't have much experience finding vac links.   

 

I would appreciate any thoughts, ideas, or help folks might have.  I love this car, but I'm all out of stuff to try.  I don't want to have to give it up.  

 

Thanks,
Jason 

 

 



#2 MR_Loyale

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 10:54 PM

Check this out:

 



#3 brat82

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 11:32 PM

Do you have a distributor? One of the things I've found is the vacuum advance canister(round thing on side of dist.) goes out. You can check this out by removing dist.cap, get a length of hose long enough so you can put it on the vac. can. pipe, and suck on it and see if the dist. plate moves. If it doesn't the vac. can. is shot.

Other than that check all the hoses you removed when you did all that stuff. Look at the ends and see how cracked they are. Cut the ends off the ones that look old/cracked/etc. Old rubber cracks when they get removed and replaced.

With all those hoses vacuum leaks can be hard to find.

Also, check your fuel filter for crud.

Edited by brat82, 03 August 2014 - 11:34 PM.


#4 superpoo93

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 11:39 PM

How many miles on car? Could be your Cat iif original lit, could be plugging up. My car starrted dying and running really rough, lost power. When it finally died... starting really heating up and running very poorly. And eventually stopped running all together. I had to loosen the exhuast at the head and drive it home. If you have checkied your timing and you have replaced/checked everything else. I would loosen the exhaust header just enough to allow a gap... Fire it up and see if still runs rough. It going to be load, so don't do it too early in the morning. :)

Edited by superpoo93, 03 August 2014 - 11:41 PM.


#5 superpoo93

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 11:49 PM

Any codes from the ecu??? You could have an intake leak where the intake meets the the heads. Spray water or windex at the base of the intake flange and see if it changes the idle. It happened to me before...sprayed at the base and idle levels out and then fell back to a bad idle. Note: do not spray anything flammable *

#6 jmoff

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Posted 05 August 2014 - 02:24 AM

Hey all,  Thanks for the feedback.   

 

It's weird, when I put in a new (used) Throttle Position Sensor, it started throwing out a 31 code.  I put my old one back in and it went away.  It runs crappy either way though.  Maybe the new (used) one is ever more bunk than my current one.    Really seems like it could be something in TPS system though.  When I have my foot on the pedal in a certain position it runs great, then other positions, or idle, and it starts getting funky.  

 

I have a new fuel filter on it, so can't be that.    The cat is relatively new as well.  

 

I'm headed back in to test vacuum lines again tomorrow.  Hopefully it's that.

 

Thanks again...



#7 djellum

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Posted 05 August 2014 - 04:52 AM

you really should diagnose actual problems before replacing items.  it makes the actual diagnoses harder by introducing new parts and problems.

 

vacuum lines are good to check.

 

buy a cheap vacuum gauge.  only a few dollars at a part store or harbor freight.  there are a half dozen symptoms that will show on a vacuum gauge and may help you.

 

start with the basics, fuel, spark, timing.

 

perhaps a little sea foam may help. 



#8 jono

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Posted 05 August 2014 - 07:42 AM

hot wire air flow meter been considered at all ? The ECU will only throw a code if the error is known to the ECU and many situations seem to trick 'em.

 

Fuel pump pressure been tested ? Can get crap in fuel pump esp if you ran it low to suck the crud through, get through filters to injectors - they is something else.....

 

No one is gonna know, only be able to suggest stuff for you to consider



#9 Goldenhands57

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Posted 12 August 2014 - 10:15 PM

hot wire air flow meter been considered at all ? The ECU will only throw a code if the error is known to the ECU and many situations seem to trick 'em.

 

Fuel pump pressure been tested ? Can get crap in fuel pump esp if you ran it low to suck the crud through, get through filters to injectors - they is something else.....

 

No one is gonna know, only be able to suggest stuff for you to consider

 Yup.. MAF sensor is my first thought. Been there...done that. ECU doesn't see the MAF very well in Sooby's so we end up jamming in all kinds of stuff. Basics need to be confiremed first but in the end the MAF usually solves this problem. Ask how I know!  BTW.. good USED MAF's for your car are pricy... be sure to sit down before you check the price of a new or "overhauled" one.



#10 scoobiedubie

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Posted 12 August 2014 - 10:21 PM

Replace the O2 sensor, then if that doesn't help, replace the alternator.






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