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EA82 slooowly nears overheating with a/c running


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10 replies to this topic

#1 SmashedGlass

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 05:38 PM

1988 EA82 SPFI, a/c converted by a shop from R12 to R134a, typical central Florida summer temps in the low 90's and humid. Everything works dandy, decent amount of cooling (for a conversion). Problem I'm having is that over the course of a drive, particularly stop and go, the car nears the overheating mark on the gauge, hitting say between 2/3 of the sweep to the tick for the start of "red". NOT running the a/c, I can pretty much romp the crap out of all day and never get warmer than the half mark, just enough to kick the fans on for a few and cool it back down.

 

The cooling system was flushed the backyard method with flush from Autozone, a/c condenser was power washed free of debris while off the vehicle, expansion valve and receiver/drier replaced with new, aftermarket dual electric fans installed and functioning correctly via OEM setup. I see no evidence of a HG leak anywhere in the coolant, engine oil, unusual smoke from exhaust, etc.

 

Any thoughts, before I throw more money at it? Car is equipped with what appears to be the original single-row all-metal radiator; I can get a new twin-row all-metal radiator but hate spending the money if it isn't going to fix the issue.

 

Special question for Jeszek: did you have heat issues with yours before switching to the twin-row radiator?



#2 john in KY

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 08:35 PM

Are the aftermarket fans turning in the right direction?



#3 SmashedGlass

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 08:49 PM

Yes, they are set up as pullers.



#4 ferp420

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Posted 20 August 2014 - 12:41 AM

i had the same problem with after market fans i have no problem with the oem fans i dont think my aftermarket fans where big enuff now im runing both factory fans and a aftermarket one set up as a pusher

#5 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 20 August 2014 - 04:01 PM

...Special question for Jeszek: did you have heat issues with yours before switching to the twin-row radiator?

 

 

 

Yes, my Subaru "BumbleBeast" is an Early EA82 (1985 model) and Despite that it came from California, USA; (running to Honduras almost new, that year) it came with a single row radiator, that was never enough for the car.

 

If the car was Gently driven, without A/C and not too much hill climbs, the temperature needle stayed right above the Mid Mark, which is where the Electric Fan (Auxiliary fan) started to spin... and almost kept spinning all day long.

 

If the car was driven in several hill climbs without A/C, the temperature needle went up to 3/4, and if we add the A/C to the mix, the Needle went without mercy to the mere Top at "H" and even worse, it pointed to the Sky a couple of times on traffic jams... with time, the issue ended with blown headgaskets.

 

So, I removed the original radiator and took it to one of the many local radiator shops, where a guy only used its measurements and main frame, to built a complete, brand new, custom fully metallic radiator in the old fashioned way: All Brass, not Aluminium.

 

The double row radiator augmented the overall cooling system capability, from around half gallon, to a complete gallon, and solved forever the overheating issues.

 

Since then, the temperature needle used to stay pegged around 1/4.

 

But since I removed the mechanical fan, it stays around 1/3, despite that I run at higher RPM's due to the increased tire size, and do lots of hill climbs with the A/C, and the needle keeps around 1/3.

 

The needle moves a little up, in traffic jams without A/C during hot weather days, right below the half mark the twin electric fans start, and spins for less than half minute to return it down... and it takes five minutes to raise the needle again on those circumstances.

 

If I turn on the A/C, the temperature keeps Cool down at 1/3 due to the permanent fans, and in open roads without A/C, the electric fans never work... 

 

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 20 August 2014 - 04:14 PM.


#6 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 20 August 2014 - 04:21 PM

...Any thoughts, before I throw more money at it? Car is equipped with what appears to be the original single-row all-metal radiator; I can get a new twin-row all-metal radiator but hate spending the money if it isn't going to fix the issue...

 

Don't forget to check if the Thermostat is good.

 

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 20 August 2014 - 04:22 PM.


#7 wagonist

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Posted 20 August 2014 - 07:43 PM

As Loyal 2.7 Turbo said, the factory single row radiator is borderline for keeping NA carb engine cool, let alone anything better.

 

Aus cars have many problems with this, and our temps are a lot higher than yours. Sydney spends weeks over summer with temps over 40 degrees C (but with a lower lower humidity), let alone anywhere not near the ocean.

 

Do you have shrouds around the electric fans like the factory ones? Otherwise, the "corners" not covered by the fans don't get this cooling effect. There's a reason why factory fans have those shrouds.

 

Ultimately, the only real solution is a thicker twin cooler radiator, unfortunately.

 

A temp quick fix (often also used by those doing hard core 4wding), is to rig up a manual override switch for the fans inside the cabin.

So when you know you're going to be in traffic, turn the fans on early. Although, if you're running your A/C, the fans should be on anyways.

 

Not sure how you wired up your fans, but the factory ones have power with the key at ACC and then earth out via temp sensor on the rad.

Intercept the wire(s) going from the fan to the sensor, extend to the cabin.

You'll need at least a 2 position ON-ON switch (although 4wd'ers use a 3 position ON-OFF-ON switch so they can turn the fans off for water crossings).

Connect 1 position back to the temp sensor for automatic operation, the other position to earth to run the fans constantly.

Due to the amount of current running, it may be advisable to run relays so the switch isn't copping the full current load.



#8 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 20 August 2014 - 09:02 PM

...Not sure how you wired up your fans, but the factory ones have power with the key at ACC and then earth out via temp sensor on the rad...

 

I Bet he followed this Writeup for the Wiring:

~► http://www.ultimates...tric-fans-swap/

Kind Regards.



#9 SmashedGlass

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Posted 21 August 2014 - 08:51 PM

^ I did, JesZek  :lol:

 

Replaced thermostat just to be safe tonight, as well as the radiator cap.

Two-row radiator on-track to arrive sometime tomorrow and will be in shortly thereafter.


Edited by SmashedGlass, 21 August 2014 - 08:52 PM.


#10 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 21 August 2014 - 10:47 PM

AwesomeThumbup.jpg

 

Don't forget to share photos of both radiators together,

 

for comparison purposes.  ;) 

 

Kind Regards.



#11 Dania02525

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 09:19 AM

Also, In our 107 degree heat in texas, I found the crap aftermarket thermostats to be, well, crap.  If you look closely at them, they do not open up to as much flow as the subaru one when exposed to heat- I would say 30% less flow.  After I switched to the relatively inexpensive subaru one, the car never went above about 3/5 on the guage- and 220 a the hottest point on the lower right corner of the radiator.  No AC yet, but thats sitting in austin traffic not moving at all, with only the main fan running- (the left one).






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