Dee2 Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 ACDelco TCK299 Timing Belt Component Kit Anybody recommend this brand for EA82 engine. Looks like low price is available on ebay ($75 w free shipping) and I was thinking of doing the front seals and belts for my '90 Loyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Sorry, I could not answer your Question, but bring here another: I've seen "GATES TCK299" but Never AC Delco TCK299 ~► http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCK299-Timing-Belt-Component/dp/B000C2UL5U ~► http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-TCK299-Timing-Belt/dp/B000C9S7S6 Could it be the Same? If it is made by Gates, it should be a Great Quality product, But I Don't know who made the AC Delco version. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 here's the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACDelco-TCK299-Timing-Belt-Component-Kit-/291201677097?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ccf8f729&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibreakstuff Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 (edited) Gates does make some parts for AC Delco (99% sure that kit is Gates). But think of AC Delco like Fel-pro, they just source wholesale parts in bulk and put their name on them.I prefer Gates belts and NSK tensioner pulleys. But the full Gates kits work well.If you do the water pump, try to get a paraut or aisin unit. Edited August 21, 2014 by Ibreakstuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 (edited) So I ordered the belts kit and it arrived, still waiting for seals to arrive so I thought I would start disassembling things in the meantime. First time for me to do the belts and the seals, so I'll have lots of dumb questions. Got the oil drained, accessory belts off, fan shrouds off, electric fan removed. Dumb question #1, how does the clutch fan get removed, since everything spins freely ? Is there a trick to locking the fan down to remove the four bolts on the water pump pulley? ah HA, I see the shaft on the pump is square ! Never mind... Edited September 1, 2014 by Dee2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 Let me ask you a Question: Does the Belts say "Gates" in them? Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 (edited) Let me ask you a Question: Does the Belts say "Gates" in them? Kind Regards. No, but they do say made in the USA. Dumb question #2 trying to get the front belt covers off, okay except for 2 bolts. One bolt is rounded and the other is simply spinning in place and won't unscrew. Any suggestions, (besides bust off the covers )? Update: Got the rounded head bolt off. The ear on the cover for the spinning bolt broke off in my efforts to extract the bolt, but the front covers are off. Edited September 1, 2014 by Dee2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 In my experience, an belt kit from NAPA under the 'ALTROM' brand supplies a gates timing belt kit. I would imagine there would be AC Delco branded kits as GM had a 20% stake in subaru before they sold it to Toyota.. With auto parts, the same manufactured parts can be packaged as different brands depending on their retail outlet. Here is another tidbit regarding GM and AC delco: the engine temp sensor for 2000-2004 legacy outback cross references with chevy malibu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 I'd use Subaru seals, i've had aftermarkets not fit well and leak shortly afterwards on EA/ER engines. two easy solutions for the timing cover bolt madness - leave them off and run it naked, or install with zipties so you're not reliant on the bolts and inserts not spinning in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 (edited) I'll look closely at the seals when they arrive. If they look dubious I'll pick some up from the Subie dealer. The old seals are NOK. Only one is weeping a very small amount of oil. The seals are hard but not brittle. I ordered the FelPro crankshaft and cam seals from Rock Auto. Slow delivery. Good tip on the zip ties. The old belts actually look surprisingly good shape. Since changing the timing belts themselves isn't a big deal, I may just put them back on and run coverless to see how that goes. Dumb Question #3: Is there any reason not to install the cam seals while the cam holders are off the car instead of installing the seals back in after the holders are bolted back on ? Edited September 2, 2014 by Dee2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe5 Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 I made the switch to coverless also recently and like it allot, no secrets on how the belts are doing ha. I did my cam seals while the cam towers were off, didn't even think about doing it the other way around... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 (edited) Finally, the seals arrived today. They are sold by FelPro, under National brand name, made in Mexico. They look to be a little less sturdy than the NOK, but still look sufficient, so I'll give them a try. Also, while waiting, I took off the oil pump because it was coverd in oil and I thought it was leaking too and wanted to see how bad the gaskets were worn. Surprisingly, the micky mouse gasket and O ring appear in great shape - both were soft and rubbery. I'll replace them and the seal anyway since the pump is off. Hopefully it's not to hard to get back on My concerns about coverless are oil spills while refilling oil or filters not on tight and possibly power steering pump leaks. Edited September 3, 2014 by Dee2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 (edited) Dumb question #4 I'm not having much luck reinstalling the oil pump. Mickey Mouse gasket keeps slipping off when I try to install the pump. What tricks are used to keep it in place during assembly? Dumb question #5 Does the pump need to be primed after installation? Edited September 4, 2014 by Dee2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 felpro indeed national seal made in mexico or canada. The NOK brand can be found by an oem supply such as NAPA altrom. The cam retainers can come off and do the seals on the bench separate than the motor, if you wish. Don't forget the o-rings if you have it apart. Open belts ok. spill fluids, wipe it off. Open belts sling off contaminants. Othersise, you can inspect the belts any time you open the hood, and keep a spare in the trunk. It only takes 2 tools and 10 minutes to change open belts if you are good. 20 minutes if you already know how to do timing belts. put a dab of ulta grey between mickeys eats and on the end of hus nose to keep the gasket in place during install. Rotate the pump sprocket. If you have room to chuck it in a drill, you can prime the whole engine before installing the belts. At least prime the oil filter. Coat the rotor in oil when you install the pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe5 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Dumb question #4 I'm not having much luck reinstalling the oil pump. Mickey Mouse gasket keeps slipping off when I try to install the pump. What tricks are used to keep it in place during assembly? I had some trouble with the mickey mouse gasket too. I got it half way tightened down and realized it had slipped out of place. But by then it had stretched out and would no longer fit in the groove. I ended up making a run to the subaru dealer to get a different one and it was impressive to compare the two and see how much my first one had stretched out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted September 6, 2014 Author Share Posted September 6, 2014 (edited) Seals are in, oil pump is back on, tensioners and idler replaced. Everything has been reassembled. Timing belts were put back on and I left the covers off, refilled the oil and turned the key --- fired right up and ran smooth Took a quick test drive, power seems the same, so I'm going to call it done. Thanks for all the help folks, it made the job a lot easier. Just a note for those considering no covers, be sure to check for wires dangling close the camshaft pulleys. Once the covers were off some wires were a little too close for my comfort zone. A couple of zip ties solved the problem. Edited September 6, 2014 by Dee2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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