Rooster2 Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 My 98 OBW has had blown rack boots for some time. It has finally progressed to the point that the rack leaks P/S fluid. I did research back in the archives on this forum to get some good advise. Advise was to buy a used rack from a yard, and that it is not difficult to swap in a replacement rack. I got this advise......... anyway - they're super easy to swap out. 1. remove exhaust manifold 2. disconnect 2 tie rod ends (you don't even have to remove the wheels - just loosen 19mm lock nut and unthread tie rod) 3. 4 bolts for steering rack brackets 4. 1 bolt to disconnect steering rack ujoint 5. 2 nuts for fluid lines on passengers side mark carefully u-joint placement to retain steering wheel alignment and tie rods for toe alignment That all sounds straight forward, however, I can see a lot of work in removing the exhaust manifold to be not so super easy. My 98 must have rusted bolts holding the manifold together. Is it a simple matter of zip cutting the bolts off, and replace with new bolts, or do they thread in, and have to be screwed out? If so, my luck is to break a bolt, then have to drill it out, and maybe have to tap in new threads. Any advise please?? Also, went to carparts.com to look for a used rack from a yard. Prices seemed to be in the $75 to $100 range. Anything I should be aware of before ordering a rack on line?? All posts are for Legacy, so I guess Legacy, and Legacy OBW are the same. Thanks for any advise...............Rooster2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
propane Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 I did a 96 Legacy rack recently, & separatedthe tie rod at the steering knuckle because that’s what was on the replacementrack, and kept some kind of toe in alignment from previous car. Also remember askid plate with 4 12mm nuts , bolts that is dropped out of the way for the rackto come out. Yeah, the manifold studs are threaded into the block, They use afairly low torque 22 ft lbs I think, so it shouldn’t be too hard to grab onwith visegrips if things go south, frequently the stud and nut come outtogether. On finish, leave the fill cap fairly loose,hang’n by a thread cause the air in system has to go somewhere and needs toescape from reservoir as it is being replaced by steering fluid. Then cap it afterit has filled, and the pump stops making cavitation sounds going lock to lock- to dipstick level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upnorthguy Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 (edited) On finish, leave the fill cap fairly loose, hang’n by a thread cause the air in system has to go somewhere and needs to escape from reservoir as it is being replaced by steering fluid. Then cap it after it has filled, and the pump stops making cavitation sounds going lock to lock- to dipstick level. +1 to this. I had a nice cavitation shudder after replacing the PS reservoir o-ring. A couple of circles lock to lock with the cap off took care of it. Edited August 25, 2014 by upnorthguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 Thanks, I appreciate the advise...............Rooster2..........................Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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