pginter96 Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 (edited) I recently purchased an EJ22 from a trusted friend of mine. Got it for $200. Includes sensors and wiring attached to the engine (no harness), and AC compressor, flexplate, valve covers, etc. EDIT: does have the harness 'NOTHER EDIT: SHE'S STAYIN' STOCK. My EJ25's starting to overheat so I just need this one together sooner than later... :/ tl;dr version: -need advice on how to rebuild/where to start -what will give me more power without compromising reliability -any general tips Full, rambling and slightly boring version: The story I got is that it was pulled from a car that hit a deer and tweaked the frame, was wrote off as totaled. The last owner intended to build it, however never had the time and hasnt done anything to it. It supposably has 140k on it. Did not come with an oil pan, stored in a cool, dry, fairly clean area as far as I know. I got a "money back guarentee," so if I take the motor apart and find its blown up, the person I bought it from will buy it back. Discovered it is most likely a 97 (see thread "What year is my engine?") however by the way it sits I cannot access where the VIN is supposed to be, so the manufacture date on the oil filler cap is what I am going by for now. Im making this thread to document the build process I will most likely go through. This is a long term project. Im working on a college budget but still am (mostly) financially able to work on it. I am 17 and this is my first major build done alone. Ive been inside small block mopars and AMC I6 motors, however those have all been someone elses under their supervision and I did not do anything besides taking parts out and putting them back/installing new parts. Im also here to ask if anything could be done to improve power output without ruining reliability. I would like to keep this engine tame for daily deiver use eventually, Im waiting for my EJ25D to chew up its head gaskets (its at 81k) and might temproarily swap depending on if/when it happens. Ive done a small amount of research on porting, decking and polishing heads, delta cams, stroker kits, frankenmotors, turbo builds and the sort. Im wondering if anyone has experience building an EJ22. I know a lot can be done with these and they are strong engines for the most part (forged crank, strong bottom end, etc). Im open to NA or turbo, maybe a WRX turbo swap (last owner's intention). My main worry is that upgrades will cause fitment issues, electronic issues, ECM issues, timing issues, and, well pretty much anything that could cause a problem. Essentialy, what should I be aware of and what should I stay away from? The build hasnt started yet, so Im open to any suggestions (within reason, of course) If the motor goes in anyting soon, it would be my 97 OBW EJ25D 4EAT. As stated before, this will be a long term build. Im going to college for Chrysler training and Im an intern in the shop of a Dodge dealer. I have tools (with the exception of specialty tools, air tools, and welding equipment). I just lack in experience. Edited November 15, 2014 by pginter96 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pginter96 Posted September 5, 2014 Author Share Posted September 5, 2014 What it looked like when I got it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pginter96 Posted September 5, 2014 Author Share Posted September 5, 2014 How it sits now. Oil pan from rock auto, new OEM oil pan bolts. Waiting to borrow my buddy's hoist to get it on my engine stand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 Those engines aren't that heavy. Flip it onto some blocks so you can bolt the bracket part to the bellhousing, then just pick it up and put it on the stand. As far as a build. Delta cams are cheap and add a few ponies for daily driving. Thats not a great block for a turbo setup. It can be done with enough work but you're talking full-on build with low compression pistons. Otherwise you're limited to about 5 psi. The way I see it a turbo just isn't worth it if you can't run at least 10. The main thing ill stress with any build: cleanliness is key. Make sure your parts are clean, and your work area is clean. These engines have very tight tolerances, and making sure everything is clean during assembly goes a long way towards reliability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pginter96 Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 anyone know where to look for some decent cams? Im having the heads decked, polished, and ported. a slightly hotter cam could add to the airflow a little. the only research I've done only reveals that in 2004 or so it was much easier to find parts for the NA EJ series engines. Im having trouble finding cams for the EJ22E. Also, whats a good way to lift this engine with a hoist? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Delta Cams does regrinds for that engine. Their website www.deltacam.com appears to be down this morning. But if you are on Facebook they have a page there as well. Nobody else to my knowledge does cams for the ej22e. You can also use a thinner head gasket, such as a cometic .041" thickness to raise your compression ratio to make better use of the cams and headwork. This would put you at approximately 10.3:1cr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pginter96 Posted October 7, 2014 Author Share Posted October 7, 2014 Finally got it on a stand. Like I said before, I bought this engine and didn't really have an idea of what shape it was in, told it had 140K and came from a deer victim car. it came with an oil filter on it, so i drained that into a clear container and ran a magnet underneath, then through it. No metal shavings or slivers. Oil smelled healthy, looked to have about half of its life left. I then pulled off a valve cover. No sludge. appears to have roller followers from what I could see, so the cam was like new, no scoring. Anything else I should look for? Im going to be tearing it down eventually, so ill be looking at pistons, rods, crank, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pginter96 Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 Ok so looking at timing belts, there are two available for this engine. A "California" spec one and a "federal" spec one. Parts numbers are different according to AllData, and the guy at the parts counter of my subaru dealer had the same results, but doesn't know the difference. Like I've previously stated, I can't do a vin check because there is no vin on my engine, just a smooth space where it should be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 Just basing this off your pictures and person experience, that's a 97/98 motor, from the coilpack and valvetrain and presence of egr. I've never heard of different timing belts for the ej22e, it's possible their listings are mixing in the ej222 which does in fact have a different timing belt. In the 15 years I've been working with ej series cars I've never seen a phase 1 sohc not use the same belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 IIRC the Calif. spec belt has the 105k change interval and was cheaper than the Fed spec unit which had a 60k change interval. No other differences outside of construction material. O. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pginter96 Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 So if theres no other differences, I should go for the california belt? Both are $59.37. Are there any differences between the 1997/1998 engines? Well due to my cooling system airlocking from time to time, Ill probably abort the head work. I dont want to be waiting on parts if/when my head gaskets finally go, and i have no idea how long head work would take. Im sure Id be happier with a stock engine than with no engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 No differences in them at all. Just be sure you replace all the idlers and tensioner pulleys with the belt, the bearings are the most common fail point in the timing system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pginter96 Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 (edited) A few hours ago a 98 Legacy outback went up for sale on craigslist, $500. 5 speed, 2.5 with blown head gaskets. Ive always wanted a 5 speed. Since i have a motor and that needs a motor, im comsidering looking at it... The only thing im worried about is if there are further differences between engines with auto/manual trans? I know with automatics the only difference between the ej22e and the ej25d is the flexplate (use the 2.5 flexplate) Can anyone give me some advice? Thanks. -note- this is new york. The only rust on this is bubbling around the rear wheel arches and a rust hole in the bottom of the drivers door. Pretty typical and ive seen a lot worse. (Mine's a lot worse, apart from the rusty door) If I do the engine swap how much could I sell it for? Im thinking around $2500, or at least ask that Edited October 20, 2014 by pginter96 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Since your ej22 has egr the only thing you need to worry about is swapping the single port exhaust manifold. Just use the flywheel from the ej25d, probably a new clutch. Everything is a bolt in affair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Major difference between auto and manual engines is EGR. Pretty much all autos have EGR, while most manuals do not. The outback will need an engine with EGR or it will throw CEL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pginter96 Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 Major difference between auto and manual engines is EGR. Pretty much all autos have EGR, while most manuals do not. The outback will need an engine with EGR or it will throw CEL. Hmm... Ok. Well I might go look at the car later this week, check for an EGR valve and see how far gone the underside of the car is. Thanks for the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pginter96 Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 Any advice on how to remove the harmonic balancer without an impact? Im currently using a chain wrench to hold the pulley with one hand while using a breaker bar on the bolt with the other hand, but thats pretty cumbersome and I cant get enough torque on it. As the engine is on a stand, it just spins the motor if I dont hold the pulley. Is the bolt reverse thread? Should I just break down and finally get an air compressor or battery impact? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 Good strap wrench, then take your ratchet & 6 point socket, put it on and hit the ratchet handle with a heavy hammer. If the flexplate is still on you can use it to lock up the crank. If option 1 or 2 does not work, you can pull a plug and stuff a bunch of rope down the plug hole to lock the cylinder as the piston comes up against the rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upnorthguy Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 The crank bolt is not reverse threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pginter96 Posted November 15, 2014 Author Share Posted November 15, 2014 (edited) What should I do/mark timing-wise when I take the heads off? Ill be doing the timing belt once the new head gaskets are in. Also, what should I look for to check the condition of the tensioners? And will spraying brake clean harm anything? Thanks, yall Edit: any good/bad brands for belts and tensioners I should be aware of? Edited November 15, 2014 by pginter96 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Don't bother with head gaskets - throw on a gates timing belt kit, cam/crank seals, cam support o-rings and valve cover gaskets and just run it if you are otherwise leaving it stock. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pginter96 Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Don't bother with head gaskets - throw on a gates timing belt kit, cam/crank seals, cam support o-rings and valve cover gaskets and just run it if you are otherwise leaving it stock. GD Probably not a bad idea. Saves me money and trouble of having heads sent out to be resurfaced (yes i read how to do it myself but dont have the space/tools/confidence to do so) What about the oil seperator? They leak on all of these engines... Anyone make aftermarket metal ones or do i have to go to the dealer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 reseal Oil Seperator, Subaru metal ones are $12 0r so. locktite oil pump rear cover plate, new o-ring & reseal Cam & crank Seals New ngk plugs New valve cover gaskets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pginter96 Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 (edited) reseal Oil Seperator, Subaru metal ones are $12 0r so. locktite oil pump rear cover plate, new o-ring & reseal Cam & crank Seals New ngk plugs New valve cover gaskets Thanks for the advice! So far my list is: -DAYCO Timing componant kit $160 >timing belt >tensioner and adjusting arm >3 idlers >water pump >cam and crank seals -FEL-PRO Valve cover gaskets and grommets $23 -FEL-PRO Intake Manifold gaskets $10 -FEL-PRO Exhaust manifold gaskets $5 -Timing belt cover (center section, donor vehicle hit a deer and the cover got smashed into the pulleys) $(depends on the junkyard) -Harmonic Balancer -Oil Seperator plate -UEL Headers, custom fabricated $240 -NGK plug wires -some form of high-end(ish) spark plugs (E3, Bosch, NGK,...) -maybe some minor exhaust work depending on what stays together when i take my current headers off Edited November 16, 2014 by pginter96 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Just stick to NGK V-Power plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.