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Squealing Front Brakes
Posted 13 May 2004 - 05:30 PM
Can anyone offer any advice? Thanks,
Posted 13 May 2004 - 06:04 PM
You may also got a bad rotor, I put some new ones on mine one time and one of them was warped from the start. Find the one that is squealing the worst and put the old rotor back on if it still does it then it is pads, if it stops then it is rotor.
Posted 14 May 2004 - 08:28 AM
Posted 18 May 2004 - 06:34 PM
Not sure if it's both sides...but will have to further troubleshoot.
Thanks for the help,
Posted 18 May 2004 - 07:23 PM
Posted 13 July 2004 - 06:31 PM
I've just installed some 'silver' pads form AutoZone. And...the squeel less...but still make a lot of noise. I'm out of cash to play with this for now. I'll probably have to buy new calipers at somepoint and start over.
Thanks for your help.
Posted 13 July 2004 - 06:58 PM
Posted 13 July 2004 - 07:35 PM
Sorry, it was Advanced Auto.
I put the anti-seize on the pads.
It seems like they just stick in the anti-rattle clips and won't release from the rotor. Very frustrating.
My new big thing is getting a master window switch.
Posted 17 July 2004 - 01:43 PM
Posted 17 July 2004 - 04:17 PM
I just got finished doing some searches on the thermoquiet pads and the manufacturer's claim (Federal-Mogul) is that the construction technique used, eliminates the need for the normal "anti-squeal" shims. Interesting concept. Question: When you put these in your Sube, did you include the factory shims, or did you leave them out?
I had installed new pads on turned rotors all the way around on my '98 OBW more than a year ago as well to find that the pads I used were not quality (started squealing less than 3 months later). So, when I replaced the not-so-good pads I replaced them with Wagner ThermoQuiet pads ($39 US) and they are fabulous! I highly recommend Wagner ThermoQuiet (not paid to say that BTW).
I'm kinda interested in trying these, but I'm wondering what to do with the shims. I've got two, a thin stainless-steel one, and a thicker mild steel one with a rubber coating. I'd be afraid that leaving them out asks the piston to extend appreciably further.
Posted 18 July 2004 - 02:48 AM
What bushing are you referring to?
Try pushing out the lock pin bushing (sleeve) and see if it is worn or out-of-round. My right hand caliper was sticking and I replaced the bushing----- works fine now.
Posted 18 July 2004 - 09:30 AM
What bushing are you referring to?
It's the bushing that the lock pin bolt slides through. It is inside the dust boot on the bottom of the caliper and needs to be greased often. The caliper "floats" in and out on this bushing and sometimes gets stuck if it is worn. Just greasing the lock pin itself is not enough. If you have a Haynes Manual, an exploded view of caliper components is on page 9-5.
Posted 18 July 2004 - 09:57 AM
Posted 20 July 2004 - 03:04 PM
Posted 20 July 2004 - 03:27 PM
If I had known about the Thermo-quiets I would have used them too. The result is a good quiet brake job, but it was kind of belt and braces.
Posted 21 July 2004 - 08:28 AM
It's like way past time that manufacturers begin to incorporate corrosion resitant materials on disk brake assemblies. It really sucks that after two winters, noticable corrosion has begun, and after 4 winters, irreversable damage is well underway. Anyone that drives on salted roads knows what I'm talking about.
I got three Michigan winters on my OBS and the brakes are rusting away, and the heat-shields are all rotting off. Sounds like a hunk-O-crap going down the road.
Posted 21 July 2004 - 09:55 AM
While I don't have a lot of rust just the fact that I have some means that east coast and Midwest folks must have a lot.
My shims were rusty and had to go and the entire area needed all rust removed. I painted all my bits black which will help to resist corrosion around here.
Posted 21 July 2004 - 05:19 PM
east coast and Midwest folks must have a lot.
It doesn't help that the city of Detroit is built over a friggin' salt mine!
Posted 22 July 2004 - 08:03 PM
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