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Code 32


Dee2
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The old CEL came on today and when I checked the code I got 32 - Oxygen sensor.  This will be the first for me on this old car.  Doesn't look too bad I can see the sensor is located below the passenger side axle with an orange wire running up to a plug above the transmission.

 

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Any tips on replacement brands or will any brand do the job ?

 

Special tools look to be required because of the wire, or can I do this with an open end wrench ?

 

Any warnings/tips on what I'm going to break along the way ?

 

 

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Use a box end wrench, just undo the wire first and slide the wrench over the wire.  The offset type work best.

 

Start the car and run it for a bit before starting, they are supposed to be easier to change if hot.  Lots of penetrating oil can't hurt either.

 

Try to get one that is OEM replacement, as it is easier to use the connector than have to cut and join the wire on a generic one.

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I always have good luck with the NTK oxygen sensors. (Same company as NGK spark plugs)

 

I have the set of sensor sockets but an open wrench worked better in the case of the subaru. Mine came right out and I doubt its ever been changed, but I also had oil dripping right onto it from an oil leak which maybe did the trick. The heat sheild on my cat was crumbling from rust so I just cut that part off otherwise I probably would have cut my hand open from the rusted sharp edges.

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So I've been digging out the old sensor.

 

--disconnect the battery

--raise car, set on jack stands

--disconnect sensor wire from harness

--remove heat shield around sensor

--spray sensor with penetrating oil

 

post-35750-0-44408100-1411510622_thumb.jpg

 

--remove heat shield around exhaust manifold to engine

--disconnect manifold from engine

 

post-35750-0-15046000-1411510638_thumb.jpg

 

had one problem occur, a manifold stud came out on one side.  Not sure how much of a problem I've created there.

 

post-35750-0-31246300-1411511163_thumb.jpg

 

--pry heat shielding away from top of sensor area

--remove sensor with 22 mm open end wrench and pipe extension

 

post-35750-0-02209400-1411510675_thumb.jpg

 

Lots of white ash on the sensor....

 

After inspecting the wire, I found a few spots where the casing had been worn through, which I now think  caused the trouble code.

 

post-35750-0-64052400-1411510756_thumb.jpg

 

Not sure how to test these units but it's probably overdue for replacement anyways.

Edited by Dee2
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Best bet on the stud is to replace it with a new one.   Any auto parts store will have it on the shelf for a few bucks.  Those aluminum threads in the head are prone to stripping out so be careful.

 

I use loctite sleeve retainer to keep the studs in and liberal amounts of anti-seize on the exposed threads to keep the stud in good shape.

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Picked up my new O2 sensor today.  Decided to just go with a full wire Bosch, same as what was in there before. It was available locally.

 

Put it in, got everything reassembled, cleared the old codes and fired up the car. No more CEL.  :D

 

Also,  just before I started getting the CEL, I noticed the engine was surging a bit when idling.  Now, with the new sensor, no more surging :P

 

As for the manifold stud, I just put it back in as it was.  I thought about using loctite but wasn't sure.  Glad to know it can be used.  I'll probably watch it for a while.  If it loosens up, I'll redo it with loctite.

 

A little side task, I noticed the bolts on the oil pan were all loose, so I snugged them down  with a phillips screw driver, (except the back few I can't get to).  Hopefully that will help resolve some of the oil mess I found under the car.

 

Thanks for the feedback, it makes the job a whole lot easier, and now it's done!

Edited by Dee2
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Should be able to get the back oil pan bolts with a 10mm socket on a swivel. Theres also holes drilled into the crossmember to get at the rear bolts if you didn't notice them. Screwdriver goes right to them through the hole.

 

I changed the oil pan gasket with the engine in car before so it can be done.

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