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Egr solinod and crank angle sensor causing engine light.


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Hello I recently purchased a 93 Loyal 4X4 non turbo. Now here's my problem it needs to be inspected and where I live I need the emission test done to the car. A couple days after I bought the car I was driveing it to my garage to put a muffler on and got pulled over. So now I have to get it inspected in a week or I'm getting a citation in the mail. So I need to have the car ready for inspection Monday morning I went over the body and checked the brakes bearings bushings and hoses everything checks out ok. But the engine light is on I ran the codes and there are two for a egr solenoid and one for the crank angle sensor. The car runs and drives fine no stumbling or anything. So I basicly need the engine light off I was thinking of just disconnecting the engine light to get pass the inspection becouse I don't really have the extra money or time to put into replaceing parts trying to get the light off. So if there's anything I can try or check before any further actions like checking wires and plugs? I checked the vaccume lines and they all look connected and in good shape. Also will the egr and crank angle sensor mess with the tail pipe emission testing? Thanks for your time sorry if I left any details out I'm just in a hurry becouse I really don't want to pay a ticket in a few days haha but I'll be looking forward to hearing from you guys!

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The EGR solenoid is easily replaced by any EGR solenoid from late 80's early 90's cars. Go to a junkyard and find a car from that time period, look for the EGR valve (there should be a diagram of the vac system on the hood of most cars). Once you find the valve, follow the vac line connected to it and it'll lead you to the solenoid. Pluck it, wire it in to your car and connect the hoses and your check engine code for the EGR will be gone.

About the crank sensor, I didn't think these cars HAD a crank sensor. Is it turbocharged? SPFI?
Now as far as taking the bulk out for the light, that'll work. These cars are pre OBD so they can't hook a computer up and check anything.

You're probably going to fail anyway if the EGR isn't working, but even if you go and fail, that buys you more time, doesn't it?

I got a buddy in Pittsburgh. I was out there a few months ago.

Good luck with everything.

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Test the solenoid with a multimeter. It should read 30ish ohms for a good one.I fixed mine for $5 and an hour of my time at a junkyard. The crank angle sensor is in the disty and from what I read it is not serviceable. If that was bad I don't think your engine would run because that sensor tells the computer what cylinder to fire first. When I got the code for my crank sensor it was because of a broken timing belt.

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Thanks for all the reply's guys! I think I am going to try cleaning up the egr valve and check the hoses to make sure there not clogged up, since the car has 250,000 miles things may have some nice carbon build up. As for the crank sensor I'm not to worried because I also read somewhere if it was not working the car would not start. So if I cant get the light out by Monday ill just pluck it and hope the exhaust is spitting out clean enough air for the test! But hopefully if I do fail that will give me some extra time before I get my ticket. But I will clean up the system a little and let you guys know how that goes! Its a little late for a junkyard run sadly.

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DaveT is right, cleaning the egr valve and hoses will do nothing to help the failed solenoid (now an open circuit). You can bypass the solenoid with a resistor, but the preferred method is to find one that isn't junk.

 

The smog tech may test the egr valve with a mitivac, as part of the visual inspection but the solenoid issue is 100% electrical.

Are you only getting codes 34 and 13?

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