l75eya Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 Quick question gentlemen, I was planning on having the car up on car ramps under the front and rear. Am i going to be able to disconnect and reconnect the front axles from the trans with the wheels still on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hsoj Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Of course! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 It's doable with some jiggling and skill and patience. Personally, I'd rather support the chassis & then be able to disconnect the lower ball joints from the steering knuckles and reconnect the shafts after the box is in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXEDY-CLUTCH-PRO-KIT-SET-SUBARU-1800-DL-GL-GL-10-4WD-1-8L-LOYALE-RX-XT-TURBO-/151063319018?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru%7CModel%3AGL&hash=item232c1351ea&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 It's doable with some jiggling and skill and patience. Personally, I'd rather support the chassis & then be able to disconnect the lower ball joints from the steering knuckles and reconnect the shafts after the box is in place. Im sure lots of people do it that way. But I refuse to be under a rig that long, pushing an pulling on things, with just a pair of jackstands keeping you alive. I do it this way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 I refuse to be under a rig that long, pushing an pulling on things, with just a pair of jackstands keeping you alive. That's kinda my reasoning as well. Think I'm going to stick with putting it up on ramps. Thanks for all the suggestions and advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 Ok! Got it. Now to tackle my rear axle, get a clutch cable from Subaru, and drop the trans. Well update with progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 Whats wrong with the transmission in the car? If it only has 82k it shouldn't be bad already unless it wasn't treated good. Is it slipping, grinding, clunking? Sorry turbo didn't see this till now. The old trans has a bad bearing, or what I'm assuming to be right now. I'll be splitting it open after its out. The car had 46k on it in 2012 when i got it so it was barely driven in 20 odd years and then i drove it across the country twice and never checked the gear oil :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Sorry turbo didn't see this till now. The old trans has a bad bearing, or what I'm assuming to be right now. I'll be splitting it open after its out. The car had 46k on it in 2012 when i got it so it was barely driven in 20 odd years and then i drove it across the country twice and never checked the gear oil :/ We want lots of picture if you are splitting a dual range. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted November 1, 2014 Author Share Posted November 1, 2014 Up on ramps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted November 1, 2014 Author Share Posted November 1, 2014 (edited) This should be enough space. Don't know why it's upside down. Almost a foot and a half. Edited November 1, 2014 by l75eya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 (edited) While it's fresh in my head,Drain transRemove four bolts attaching drive shaft to rear diffRemove two bolts on center carrier bearingSlide drive shaft outRemove roll pins from front axlesHop in the car and remove interior trim from shiftersRemove Phillips screws from inner bootSlide boot up and undo bolts for shifter linkagesDrop linkagesBack under the car remove bolts for trans pitch rod mount and shifter mountDrop exhaustRemove bellhousing bolts and shift the trans back and down and out! Be careful! Edited November 2, 2014 by l75eya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 (edited) Reserved. Edited November 2, 2014 by l75eya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 Drive shaft removed.Axles can remain attached to the wheels. Once the bellhousing is loose and you can shift the transmission around, you can remove the axles from the trans stubs entirely.Remove all interior trim around the shifters. Take off the phillips screws holding the rubber boot on and then undo the linkages.12MM bolts. After they are all removed you can climb under the car and unbolt the pitch rodSeparating.Finally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 How many cuss words and skinned knuckles did this take? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 None, actually. It all went very smooth and straight forward. Even dropping the exhaust. I was very happy. Hopefully the reverse order goes as smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 Can anybody explain why theres a difference between my dual range and the replacement? In the pictures, mine has the plug on the side. That same location on the replacement has no plug and what appears to be a circle with a cross through it like on a no smoking sign. Supwitdat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 For what it's with mine is an 87 and the junkyard trans is out of an 85. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Yeah......that's the Hi/Lo light indicator switch. The 85 had the switch mounted to the D/R lever under the shifter console.... in 87....they changed and added the switch to the side of the trans....... In 88....they went SPFI and added a Nuetral switch to the trans as well.... so.....For U.S market, EA82 series....non-turbo Dual range subi trans this is the breakdown..... 85,86....2 switches.......Reverse, and 4wd 87 Fed.(carbed).....3 switches........Reverse, 4wd, Hi/Lo 87 Cali, and 88,89 all..(SPFI)......4 switches........Reverse, 4wd, Hi/Lo, and Nuetral 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 Thanks, G. Guess I'll try and figure out how to wire it up.. So the connections on the 85 are for the 4wd lights and reverse. The lever switch would illuminate the lo light? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Thanks, G. Guess I'll try and figure out how to wire it up.. So the connections on the 85 are for the 4wd lights and reverse. The lever switch would illuminate the lo light? Correct......the microswitch mounts to the D/R lever......IIRC...the microswitch is the same type as the one on the side of the Heater box for activating the A/C when the "vent" button is pushed. so maybe you could scavenge the one from your loyale? Mount it to the shifter......run the wires from the Trans connector into the cab to the microswitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Can anybody explain why theres a difference between my dual range and the replacement? In the pictures, mine has the plug on the side. That same location on the replacement has no plug and what appears to be a circle with a cross through it like on a no smoking sign. Supwitdat? That means you gotta stop smoking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Curious why you undid the shift linkages at the gearstick end & not the transmission end? There's only 1 split pin & a washer through each, and then you don't need to remove the centre console, rubber boot, ... Bit hard to get to until the tailshaft & exahust are removed, but not overly difficult Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 I didn't want to lay underneath the car anymore! Lol jk, honestly because i want too sure which was easier but also because I'm going to have to swap those parts on to the new trans and i wanted to see how everything looks before taking it apart. The junkyard trans they just cut the linkage when they pulled it. Now i know for next time though! Dropped the flywheel off to get machined today. Progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 None, actually. It all went very smooth and straight forward. Even dropping the exhaust. I was very happy. Hopefully the reverse order goes as smooth. Yeah when my engine went in really easy I said "Gdamn that was easy." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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