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98 Forester 2.5 - Heater Core advice


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My Heater core bit it over the weekend.  I have coolant mist spraying into the cabin regardless of which setting I choose.  I have a manual (pdf's) for reference as well as some of these posts to go by, but specifically I would like to know a couple of things before I start tearing in:

 

1.  Any special consideration for the airbags while pulling the dash?  I will take the battery lead off and tape the airbag connectors if I need to remove them.  

 

2.  Will any torx set do or is there a special size required?

 

3.  The light on the right side of the instrument panel is burnt out.  I wish to change it while in in there, so is that a dealer only part or should any half decent parts store have those bulbs?

 

4.  Do I need to go to the dealer for the heater core itself or will an aftermarket one suffice?  Any particular brands to avoid?

 

 

Thank you,

 

Dean

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As long as the battery has been disconnected for awhile, Airbags will be OK

Any Torx set should be fine.  You can just drop the steering wheel down if you want, no need to remove the column.

I'd hit the Junk Yard and pull a heater core and any lights you want.  Cheaper and you get to practice on a car you don't care much about.

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deener,

 

Disconnect the battery and wait 30 minutes before tackling the steering column, dash bags, That will allow the stored electrical charge to dissipate and not fire the bags in your face.

 

As for a used heater core  ... the one from the wreckers may be just as bad as yours  ... after changing it, do you really want to do the job a second time if it is just as bad?

 

Aftermarket cores are available and eBay is filled with them. Just be sure to match yours for year and model.

 

As for the dash bulb, pull the trim surround from the combination meter, undo about 4 screws, disconnect the wiring from the back of the meter assembly, undo screws from the back of the assembly if necessary, and all of the bulbs just twist out from their sockets. Easy to replace.

 

Hint: if you tackle this yourself (it is a DIYer exercise if you are careful and methodical), take lots of pictures in sequence to refer to upon reassembly. As well, as you pull parts and screws/bolts off, place the pieces one after the other on the floor alongside the car from the rear bumper forward. That way, you'll know what sequence things have to go in upon reassembly. I put each set of screws/bolts in a small container/baggy next to each part that I removed as well. Makes it a no brainer.

 

As well, download a free shop manual for your model online. Do some searching, as they're out there, and the exploded diagrams will show you where all of the fasteners are. Good Luck!

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deener,

 

Disconnect the battery and wait 30 minutes before tackling the steering column, dash bags, That will allow the stored electrical charge to dissipate and not fire the bags in your face.

 

As for a used heater core  ... the one from the wreckers may be just as bad as yours  ... after changing it, do you really want to do the job a second time if it is just as bad?

 

Aftermarket cores are available and eBay is filled with them. Just be sure to match yours for year and model.

 

As for the dash bulb, pull the trim surround from the combination meter, undo about 4 screws, disconnect the wiring from the back of the meter assembly, undo screws from the back of the assembly if necessary, and all of the bulbs just twist out from their sockets. Easy to replace.

 

Hint: if you tackle this yourself (it is a DIYer exercise if you are careful and methodical), take lots of pictures in sequence to refer to upon reassembly. As well, as you pull parts and screws/bolts off, place the pieces one after the other on the floor alongside the car from the rear bumper forward. That way, you'll know what sequence things have to go in upon reassembly. I put each set of screws/bolts in a small container/baggy next to each part that I removed as well. Makes it a no brainer.

 

As well, download a free shop manual for your model online. Do some searching, as they're out there, and the exploded diagrams will show you where all of the fasteners are. Good Luck!

Thanks fellas.  Good one about discharging!  Didn't think about that.  

 

I won't put in used parts during big-ish jobs.  I don't mind paying a few bucks more for a new unit, was just more concerned about any junky brands to avoid in case they were known leakers.

 

Good idea about practicing in the JY, however, I am a bit pressed for time so I am just going to dig right in.

 

When it comes to complex/new jobs, I always keep my tablet,  a sharpie and a box of sandwich bags with me - taking pics, labeling screws and fixtures in baggies as I go, unless I've done the job a few times.  

 

I have a basic manual that covers 1999 - 2001, which I suspect is probably close enough to my 98.  

 

 

Thanks for the advice.  Outstanding!

 

Dean

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Thanks.  I didn't have to remove any AC lines, but I had to undo a bracket in the engine to allow for more slack to get the heater box out.  The big black AC box sits right on front of the heater box (with a peg sticking into it from the backside), but you can get enough clearance by undoing the bracket in the engine (not sure what the part is called but its a vertical canister with a couple of lines going to it).

 

The whole heater core job took me about 6 hours but I messed up the climate controls somehow.  I tried setting them exactly as it stated in the manual before I disassembled it but still managed to mess things up.  Now the blend dial won't budge, it's stuck cold and the climate mode dial does nothing - like no change in air routing between any of the selections.

 

Does anyone know if there's a foolproof way/rules for putting the climate controls and blend/vent door levers back together correctly?

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My Heater core bit it over the weekend.  I have coolant mist spraying into the cabin regardless of which setting I choose.  I have a manual (pdf's) for reference as well as some of these posts to go by, but specifically I would like to know a couple of things before I start tearing in:

 

1.  Any special consideration for the airbags while pulling the dash?  I will take the battery lead off and tape the airbag connectors if I need to remove them.  

 

2.  Will any torx set do or is there a special size required?

 

3.  The light on the right side of the instrument panel is burnt out.  I wish to change it while in in there, so is that a dealer only part or should any half decent parts store have those bulbs?

 

4.  Do I need to go to the dealer for the heater core itself or will an aftermarket one suffice?  Any particular brands to avoid?

 

 

Thank you,

 

Dean

 

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the torx screws on the tranny hump require the security type. vise grips will work.

Careful when you remove the control cables. There are small e clips which are easy to lose. Take your time and plan on an all day affair.

Don't drop the steering column until you absolutely have to, it will be in the way.

There are hard to see screws on the left of the panel underside. Use your fsm and count to make sure you have them all.

 

O.

Edited by ocei77
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Thanks folks.  71 bucks (tax in) at a local parts store for aftermarket instead of 290 from the dealer for OEM.  They look identical, and I just had to swap the pipes onto the new one.  

 

Regarding the climate control cables - I figured it out:

 

1.  Routing matters - otherwise the clip can't hold the cable properly and the loop will pop off when you change the selector - especially true with the driver side cable.  Pay attention to the routing prior to removal.

2.  Positioning of the cable in the clip matters, if its too 'far' then the cable cannot actuate properly.

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the torx screws on the tranny hump require the security type. vise grips will work.

Careful when you remove the control cables. There are small e clips which are easy to lose. Take your time and plan on an all day affair.

Don't drop the steering column until you absolutely have to, it will be in the way.

There are hard to see screws on the left of the panel underside. Use your fsm and count to make sure you have them all.

 

O.

Correct, the torx I used was a #40 - security type.  

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