MilesFox Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 I encourage you to use 0w40 if the lifter tick persists. the 0w will flow more readily thru the tiny passage in the lifters to help prime them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pginter96 Posted January 1, 2015 Author Share Posted January 1, 2015 I encourage you to use 0w40 if the lifter tick persists. the 0w will flow more readily thru the tiny passage in the lifters to help prime them Wow, that video... Thats exactly what mine sounds like. Did that go away over time or did the different oil wieght help? The only issue I have with that is that it does get that cold here this time of year. I dont know how the oil would handle such lower temperatures. What would be the difference between 10-40 and 0-40 at 0 degrees F cold start? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 (edited) This was the immediate first statr with fresh 0w40 fill. I started the video about 45 seconds from running. The tick went away after i drove it 10 miles to my workplace. It still has the same oil in it; if i were to change it now, it's because the oil is cleaning out the engine. The motor sat as it was overdue by 3000 mi with whatever oil it had in it prior as it was when i acquired the engine (it was my DD for a few mo before the HG blew, and the engine had the same oil in it from when i got it as i was driving it in is donor car. the differnce with cold start is that the 0w should be good to -20 and the 40 good for temps above 95. If you understand the viscosity index, the 0 is the cold viscosity and the 40 is the hot viscosity. The 10w40 is good from 04 dg as a 10w40 acts as a 10 grade when cold. I have had no trouble and i live in a temperate northern usa climate and right now the temp is in the single digits. So far this season the coldest start has been 15 deg F until i start it up tomorrow morning in single digit. Here is the same engine in its donor car at a 0 deg startup with whatever presumed 5w30 was in it to start (same block, but different heads as this engine is in the forester) Edited January 1, 2015 by MilesFox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Also, my 96 impresa with 185,000 mi had a little bit of bottom end noise at cold start with 10w30 that went away or i havent noticed it with 0w40 as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pginter96 Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 Well even though the swap was successful, its time to face it... The engine isnt... I have a rod knock. Just your reminder to NEVER BUY AN ENGINE UNLESS YOU SEE IT RUN So, guess Ill start on the head gaskets since the 2.5 is out... On that note, anyone know of anyone selling a good, running EJ22E in the buffalo/western new york area? Just in case? Ive fallen in love with that little engine. Apart from scary noises and a very substantial oil pump leak, it runs beautifully. So smooth it puts the 25 to shame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pginter96 Posted March 24, 2015 Author Share Posted March 24, 2015 (edited) A final update to this series and possibly many others, mainly the EJ25D I pulled out in the swap I had the intentions of rebuilding it to replace the knocking EJ22. As I began the reassembly process of the EJ25, I just pulled the heads off and put them in sealed containers, and left the project for a later time. After going through the heads, cleaning them and adjusting lash myself, I am genuinely surprised it took me this long to notice this, but I went to go put it all together and made an unfortunate discovery... Not only was the engine suffering from head gasket failure, but ringland failure simultaneously. At 85,000 miles. The upper oil ring had spun against the flange designed to stop it from doing just that, forced outward, and had just began to destroy the cylinder wall and beginning to crack the piston ring area. If I hadn't pulled the engine when I did, I would have had some form of catastrophic failure relatively quickly. Its good money after bad at this point, and its just not worth it to put this much time and effort into keeping this car in top shape. I love it, but she cant run forever. Edited March 24, 2015 by pginter96 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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