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rear wheel bearing replacement (need help read last posts)


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12 replies to this topic

#1 s'ko

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 01:20 PM

This is just to verify what needs to be done to change the rear wheel bearings for my 1982 BRAT EA-81 Chassis.
1) Remove rear wheel
2) remove pin at rear diff
3) remove castle nut and remove rear axle
4) Take punch and tap out inner and outer wheel bearings (will not be re-using them)
5) carefully tap in the new bearings. Being careful not to damage the races.
6) Reassembly in reverse.

Is that about it? Is there anything that I am missing?

Thanks
Bosco

#2 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 01:36 PM

Completely wrong.

Rear's are not like fronts. There is only a single sealed bearing in the rear. The axles unpin from both sides (diff and trailing arm), and then you have to unstake and remove a BIG nut on the backside of the spindle housing. After this, you can pound the spindle out from the outside, and then the bearing as well. Sometimes they come out together. Cheapest I have found rear bearings was Autozone (timkin I think) for about $50 each.... expensive buggers. EA82 4WD rear wheel bearings are the same.

GD

#3 s'ko

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 01:55 PM

:-p Right on.

Good thing I asked before I tackled it.
Thanks for all of the help.

BW

#4 chef_tim

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 02:31 PM

Spend $28 and buy the "pin socket" to remove the BIG ring nut. It will save you alot of time and trouble.

#5 s'ko

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 06:42 PM

What size is the "pin socket"?

and can I buy it from local auto parts store.?

Thanks
BW

#6 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 06:48 PM

Probably not - snap-on I think makes one....

It's a wise investment if you plan to own soobs far into the future, but I've done several rear's without one. Generally I use a cold chisel to unstake them, and get them started turning. You could also make your own if you had access to a torch, a welder, and some proper sized tubing.

GD

#7 s'ko

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 06:54 PM

Unstake? When you say unstake, what do you mean.

Is it pretty self-explanatory if I take a look at the rear axle?

Thanks

#8 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 07:04 PM

There is a metal ring on the back of the trailing arm spindle housing that is punched into the slot of the ring nut - keeping it from spinning free.

I think you'll get the idea if you look at closer.... you'll probably have to remove the lower shock mount to get the axle off. That's usually how it is on unlifted rigs.

GD

#9 s'ko

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Posted 21 May 2004 - 10:19 AM

Ok so I am a doofus...

Unstaked the ring nut.

Now I cannot figure out which direction it goes. CW or CCW? Everything else went pretty smoothly. I had to get a new chisel set b/c the original punch set I bought was junk and I ended up breaking/bending the punches.

THanks for all of the great help. I am gaining a lot of confidence in my wrenching abilities.

BW

#10 s'ko

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Posted 21 May 2004 - 12:17 PM

Found a place that sells the pin socket for 21 plus sh and tax.the description said that is would fit all subaru except for the justy.

Does that mean that I can also use it for my OBS?

BW

#11 chef_tim

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Posted 21 May 2004 - 12:25 PM

Righty tighty, lefty loosy.....:D . Crawl under the OB and see if it has the same ring nut. Later, tim

#12 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 21 May 2004 - 12:45 PM

Where did you get the tool? Thats a decent price!

GD

#13 s'ko

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Posted 21 May 2004 - 02:03 PM

http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp
item number VO-SU022

BTW I called a local soob shop. Tool will not fit newer soobs. :(

Also I do not think that the ring was completely unstaked. :banghead: Will make sure that it's completely unstaked before I try again.




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