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I recently bought a used Subuaru Forester (2000) from a private seller in Texas. While I bought the car for its awd in the tough MI winters it has turned out to be quite the pansy in the cold. This morning on my way in to work it was very very cold and snowing. I turned on my heat and the engine temp would not go up then went all the way up. I am sure that this was not correct because the car did not overheat all 67 miles in to work. The heater kept blowing cold air for the next ten min. However about ten min into my drive I heard a squealing that would come and go and got worse and lasted longer and then my "heat" quit blowing alltogether as did the sqealing. Im pretty sure the squealing was from my fan belt or serpentine belt but the car never overheated so it must still be working. I have no idea how to trouble shoot heating problems but I do not want to continue doing the hour + drive to and from work in below zero weather with no heater!

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I think you now have two problems. First problem is there is air in the coolant system or the engine is just low on antifreeze. Do a search for "burp". The belt is squealing because something it powers is not turning. The "something" could well be the water pump. I would not drive the car until the problem is identified and repaired. Replacing head gaskets can get very expensive. 

 

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/burping-coolant-system-8683/

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/93859-burping-question-on-overheating-legacy/

Edited by john in KY
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Well,

 

I would start,  If it were me by replacing the thermostat.  It is very possible it stuck in the closed position.  That is why you had no heat and the gauge jumped. I suspect your car did get hot.  The squealing very well could have been your AC compressor clutch.  It still cycles even in the cold I believe.  If your fan is blowing and only cold air it is not your blower motor unless the squealing was from your dash.  Just some ideas.

 

Thanks,

 

Eric

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If you smell any burning rubber this is a sign of a failing water pump. It is driven by the timing belt. Perhaps the water pump is leaking. This can start to rear its head around 150,000 mi if the timing belt and water pump is over due.

 

First thing first, top off the coolant aqnd burp out the air pocket. Perhaps you should fill coolant into the upper radiator to fill the block if it is low enough.

 

Cold heat is a classic sign of low coolant condition. There may be an external head gasket leak.

 

Perhaps the previous owner sold you the car as it was up agains the wall for routine service. Please consider doing th timing belt and water pump to ensure reliability, and to investigate prior service records

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Well I have not smelled burning rubber, and when the heater quit it stopped blowing anything at all so it seems like the blower motor...

 

but the car has 120k miles on it and Im not sure the timing belt has been changed, and I have noticed some dried fluid on the housing where the water pump is. I will check the level of coolent after work but is it safe to drive home as long as I keep the coolent full or do I need to take it straight to a mechanic?

 

Is it possible for the thermostat to be stuck closed and the car still run at 60mph for an hour? The last time my thermostat wasnt working I barely made it ten miles before it began smoking and quit running.

Edited by Natalie
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first check the coolant level, top off if low.

go straight to a parts store and buy a gallon of 50/50 antifreeze.

you can drive a long time with a leaking system if you just top it off.

 

the air moving around the engine / radiator at 60 will / can keep it from overheating.

but the gauge would tend to rise at a stop light.

 

i would not jump to replacing the t-stat right away.

especially if the coolant level is low.

factory subaru t-stats rarely fail.

aftermarket t-stat cause problems every time.

 

and it could be an external leak of the head gaskets.

this tends to be a slow weeping leak ,

and can be driven as long as you keep coolant in it.

the leak will get progressively worse until you have to fix it.

 

but is could also be any other cooling system leak,

bad cap,

bad hose clamp

bad hose

bad t-stat gasket,

cracked t-stat housing.

 

once the cooling system is full,

park it in your drive way when you get home,

let it idle,

put a clean piece of cardboard under the engine.

check for a drip or wet spot on the cardboard.

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