josiahm91 Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Greetings all, Obviously I am new at posting on the forums but i Have been lurking around for awhile while in my hunt for more soobs I have recently purchased my first Loyale and I have lots of questions. Lets start with the basic info. it is a '92 Loyale sedan EA82 with 147k. Not sure what the transmission is but it is a 5 speed and has push button 4wd, so i guess that's my first question. For all of you wondering this is not the first Subaru which i have owned. I previously had a '96 outback and also currently own an '06. I just bought the Loyale to get me back and forth to work ( A whopping 12 miles a day) and maybe have a little fun with. She is leaking a little oil but from what I have read it is probably the oil pump needing some seals. Also the lifters are showing some signs of a little tick of death aka TOD but i also attribute that to the oil pump. Also my shifter is supppppper sloppy. I have read that it is probably just linkage needing refurbished or replaced but have not found (as of yet) a place to buy the new bushings for it. Thoes are my first two projects I will probably dig into on it, besides just a standard tune and replacing all fluids. anything else I should jump on early? Thanks in advance. Josiah P.S I am currently located in Anchorage. I know the cold is something to take into consideration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Condition of all 7 coolant hoses. How many miles on the timing belts? Leaking oil pretty common for this old and the miles. Cam seals, main seal, oil pump, cam covers, cam towers. One brush on the alternator should wear out soon, if it is original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josiahm91 Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Condition of all 7 coolant hoses. How many miles on the timing belts? Leaking oil pretty common for this old and the miles. Cam seals, main seal, oil pump, cam covers, cam towers. One brush on the alternator should wear out soon, if it is original. I was planning on doing the timing belts when I pull the oil pump since I am unsure about how long they have been on. The gentleman I bought it from had it eight years ( he put about 20k on it) and i know he never did a timing belt so i'm assuming it due As for as coolant hoses where are they all located? I checked the obvious ones. I haven't had a ton of experience with this motor so I probably missed some. I'm planning on doing a battery/ alternator swap here soon since the battery was installed in '09. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Coolant hoses: a small 90 preformed one right on top of the water pump. A thin one from the thermostat housing to the block. Another from the center back of the intake, behind the throttle body to a steel tube that is one of the heater hose ends, kind of back near the starter. That one should be a preformed one also, or use a longer piece and loop it up and around so it doesn't kink. When you replace the timing belts, replace the 3 idlers. An 09 battery is at end of life, just due to age, under ideal conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colemanapp Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 I bought some new shifter bushings for my loyale from www.subarupartswarehouse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josiahm91 Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Coolant hoses: a small 90 preformed one right on top of the water pump. A thin one from the thermostat housing to the block. Another from the center back of the intake, behind the throttle body to a steel tube that is one of the heater hose ends, kind of back near the starter. That one should be a preformed one also, or use a longer piece and loop it up and around so it doesn't kink. When you replace the timing belts, replace the 3 idlers. An 09 battery is at end of life, just due to age, under ideal conditions. Ya I'm expecting the battery not to last very long. Especially here in AK. Ok I will check up on all of those Hoses ASAP. Thanks for the help I really appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josiahm91 Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 I bought some new shifter bushings for my loyale from www.subarupartswarehouse Thanks for the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josiahm91 Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 What weight gear oil does the rear dif use? Also what weight trans./transfer case fluid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 I've been using Amsoil 80W-90 gear lube in diffs, and transmissions since around 1988. It made a big difference in how the car moves and shifts when cold when I put it in my 1978 4 speed 4WD. I've used it ever since. I now have only automatics, so I use the synthetic ATF, which made them shift better when cold also. Still use the gear lube in the diffs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josiahm91 Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 I've been using Amsoil 80W-90 gear lube in diffs, and transmissions since around 1988. It made a big difference in how the car moves and shifts when cold when I put it in my 1978 4 speed 4WD. I've used it ever since. I now have only automatics, so I use the synthetic ATF, which made them shift better when cold also. Still use the gear lube in the diffs. So for my 5 speed should I use the Amsoil 80w-90 then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Besides worn bushings, shifter slop can come from it missing a spring. Subaru calls it an acceleration spring. It should show up in the parts diagram when you look for the bushings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 I don't have a manual for a 92 5 speed. But Amsoil.com does have a lookup by make and model that will show what is recommended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josiahm91 Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 I don't have a manual for a 92 5 speed. But Amsoil.com does have a lookup by make and model that will show what is recommended. My car actually came with the manual. I will look in there and see what I can find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Where is it leaking oil from? I had one leak really bad at the head... as a result the lifter/lash adjusters would tap on that side....... I just fixed leaking oil pump..... You are looking at a "micky mouse seal" an O-ring(pump to engine seal) and a pump seal(pump shaft)..... Do all three........ I just started using anerobic sealant on the micky mouse seal... to put in place to the engine block..... let it get so it sticks there....... I started doing this, because I noticed... on my regasket jobs.... that the micky seal would fail..... eventually.... (around 60K) and upon inspection of the seal.... It appeared... out of shape.... or what one would call, pinched....... Anerobic sealant http://www.all-spec.com/products/51813.html?gclid=CJn43catkcMCFUEV7Aod4G8AyQ Get where ever you want....... I get it at the local...... and there are several brands of it...... It is red.... sort of looks like "fake Halloween vampire blood" Just use enough to get it to stick in place to the engine block... and make sure it is sticking there and not moving around.... Cause yeah, without it... I believe while it is being tightened into place.... it sits there squirming around...... and can get pinched... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 welcome to the family! You can also use 75w-90 gear lube, which is synthetic instead of 80W-90 which is conventional oil. Both will work fine although I personally prefer to run synthetic oils and lubes through my rig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish-N-Fool Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Also my shifter is supppppper sloppy. I have read that it is probably just linkage needing refurbished or replaced but have not found (as of yet) a place to buy the new bushings for it. Josiah Hey Josh I had the same problem with my 93 Loyale with the push button 5 speed and it turned out to be the shift linkage. Which is a long piece of pipe tubing. It was cracked, then It finally broke and then i had no gears at all. lol Replaced it with a new piece ( from the wrecking yard) and it shifts like new again. I would check it first before you buy any parts. Jack up the car and put it on stands, have a helper shift it while you slid under and look at the linkage. You most likely will see what and where the problem is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colemanapp Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 my sloppy shifter was caused by 2 areas. The bushings closest to the transmission stub and the tensioner spring were both missing. All other bushings looked new. Replaced all bushings anyway and now I have one tight shifter, works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josiahm91 Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 So kind of an off the wall question. so the "spare" that comes stock with the car is a 4x140 bolt pattern and a 15" wheel. Has anyone ever tried getting a set of for putting a more normal size tire on them and running them on the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 The T-type spare is a 15, but the width is too small to handle the normal load requirement for any period of time.. If you want bigger wheels, either hunt down the old Peugot sets or perform the 5-lug swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josiahm91 Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 Ya hunting down anything in Alaska is not gonna happen..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josiahm91 Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 Does anyone know where I can get a replacement heater core? My blower unit is dying so I was gonna just do both but I am not having any luck finding one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 AutoZone lists one on their site, #91792 $119.99. Subaru number is 72011GA110 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 You can replace the blower motor without disassembling the dashboard. Not so for the heater core. Are you sure it is bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josiahm91 Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 You can replace the blower motor without disassembling the dashboard. Not so for the heater core. Are you sure it is bad? I know for a fact my blower motor is bad (doesn't work on settings 1 & 2). It just doesn't really blow heat when it gets cold. like maybe 55/60 degree air is the best i get from it. I know the car leaks coolant but I have been keeping up with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 If the blower doesn't run on the low speed settings, the problem is usually the resistors that the speed switch selects the speed with. The 2 slowest settings are notorious for failing. The resistors are mounted withe 2 screws on the blower housing so that the resistors are in the path of the air existing the blower. There was a recent thread with someone having low heat output. That case , turned out to be that the pieces of foam that seal the heater core in the plastic heater box had deteriorated so that the air could get around the core, thus not get heated well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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