SnatchedHatch Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Finally uploaded the pics of the shaved tire, if anyone was curious. It's on the back with the other tire, coincidentally the pair with the most thread (slight difference). As you can see in the pictures, that's an extremely rough grazing of the tire! Holy ... I did not expect it to look like that. Due to the state of the thread and it's (slightly) greater depth, I'm going to drive around in FWD for about a week, at least until the next blizzard. I should be seeing improved fuel economy right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnatchedHatch Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 remember that the back tires carry less weight and have a greater circumference at the same PSI than tires on the front which bear more load. Just a few extra PSI should make up the difference ~ this way you won't have to subject your new tires to uneven wear from underinflation or sacrifice their longevity by trimming down tread. On a level surface, carefully measure and adjust PSI accordingly. Forget to address this, if you haven't noticed the door sill sticker on your Subaru (at least the 90's gen), Subaru specifies a tire pressure of 32 for the front, and 29 for the rear, for this exact reason. That's what I have been doing, and readjusted to after swapping around my tires at present. Especially important with my deeper tires in the rear (by 2/32" max). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 It's not like they can run it through a meat slicer. They run it on a big drum that eats rubber off the tire. You should rotate them though, so the tires with the most tread are on the front since the front tires wear faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnatchedHatch Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 (edited) It's not like they can run it through a meat slicer. They run it on a big drum that eats rubber off the tire. You should rotate them though, so the tires with the most tread are on the front since the front tires wear faster. Obligatory rear end tax, FairFax! The donut was on the rear, so of course the replacement must stay in its place for say 2-4 business days while the operator adjusts . Edited February 8, 2015 by SnatchedHatch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnatchedHatch Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 (edited) I might as well ask here, Just need a confirmation, assuming all other tire dimensions are matching, will a difference in width on one of the tire treads cause a problem? EDIT: I thought it over, and I think I have it down: A taller tire will rotate slightly more than it's paired opposite, because of the larger circumference. That, is detected as rotating more, hence, as if it were slipping. Having a taller tire will constantly engage the diff, if I have a slightly skinnier tire, or an unstudded+studded tire, one of them will rotate more than the other in certain driving conditions. While that's not as bad as constantly engaging the diff, it is engaging it more often than with matching tires. Looks like I should ditch my shaved tire, it needs studs + it is half an inch skinnier than my other tires (I love when manufacturer's mess with the tire dimensions and don't mention it) + difference in tire-wear ratings (I'm looking them up). Edited March 4, 2015 by SnatchedHatch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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