rozelli Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 This was intermittent now solid. The door locks do not work but there is a weak audible click. When the headlights are turned on they flicker. Also hazard lights flicker and tach /pressure guage lose power. Dome lights /clock ok. Power windows ok. I swapped out relays in fuse box so far..checked cable connection to battery link and ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozelli Posted February 3, 2015 Author Share Posted February 3, 2015 Oops...the vehicle is a 2003 Subaru Gt Manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozelli Posted February 3, 2015 Author Share Posted February 3, 2015 errr.Forester Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Does it start and run? Take a jumper cable from the battery negative and attach it to the engine, does it still flicker? Have you checked the condition of the wires under the main fuse box? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedrew Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 check voltage at the battery and at alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith3267 Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 You need two grounds, one to the engine and one to the body. Usually there are several ground straps that go between the engine and the body. You need to find all of them and make sure they are secure. You may even have tow ground wires from the battery, one to the engine and one to the body, or if a single cable, it may have a bare section somewhere along its length and a clip that goes around it and attached to ground. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozelli Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 Yes it runs perfect..thanks for some ideas will apply them tomorrow. My mech friend suggests its the dash light dimmer. When I rotate the dimmer it does change the frequency of the flashing...but gee I never use the dimmer? Also it started occurring intermittently in the colder weather so suspect a ground connection... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 The "light control module" aka dimmer is pricey and never really goes bad unless someone wires something in wrong that uses dash lights, then the magic smoke escapes. Is the flickering a steady flickering or a random flickering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith3267 Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 The negative cable from the battery goes directly to the block, so that ground will be good. Your engine will start and run just fine. Your problems are tied to the chassis ground and that is the one you need to check as I suggested above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozelli Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Cleaned up chassis ground. Reseated connectors off steering wheel ignition. The buzzer and flashing is probably 4 times a sec. Funny I cant find the power door locks on the schematic.Was thinking find the power source the locks use and see what shares the circuit. Car may be possessed..;lol. If you put key in and rotate ignition pre start position you can hear a few things going on check engine light flashes, relay flasher behind glove box and rad fan I believe then a module at back right rear clicks..this repeats every 5 secs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith3267 Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 You need to do an inventory of exactly what is working and what is not working. Don't go after individual issues, instead have someone trace the circuits on a schematic or wiring diagram and look for a point where they all come together. When you have multiple electric/electronic failures, they usually trace back to a common point. It could be a common power point or a common ground, you have to look at the complete circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozelli Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 I went at the problem today had all the diagrams....thought Id start by taking the door locks out of the system by pulling fuse 3 on the interior fusebox. Pulled it and the lights still would not go on...put it back in to try something else and everything worked....hmmm. All is working at the moment but something must still be amiss...it did trouble me that the door locks did not work lights on or off though so maybe a lock faulty between open and closed or fuse had some voltage drop? : / Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith3267 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 The blades on a fuse can loose contact with the sockets and reseating them fixes the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 (edited) Kinda sounds like the test mode connectors are plugged in. This will cause fans to turn on/off, and relays and solenoids to cycle. Look under the drivers dash for two green connectors with single wire in each. Make sure they are Unplugged. The lock problem is not likely related. There is a timer module for the locks which can go bad, there are also a lot of reports of bad lock switches on the early-mid 2k models. Edited February 26, 2015 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozelli Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 Y good call on the test mode. I had actually connected them earlier when I was debugging this problem and couldnt get disconnected..got them ok now tks..so basically I still have a problem but its dissappeared for the time being then if the locks would not have caused it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozelli Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 OK...found the problem. It was a ground. Funny but I was unable to find GB-1 that was supposed to be bolted to frame around drivers side door opening it seemed from schematics. Anyway there was a molex connector in that area that was taped up. It was a ground termination floating with 4 spade connectors which were oxidized. Sanded and greased and solid solid afterwards. 4 hours in the cold still better than opening the wallet for more than the value of the vehicle fo sure. Tks all who had suggestions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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