iluvdrt Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 So I rebuilt and installed a 32/36 DFEV. I got it for a great deal. I installed it onto my 82 Brat. It runs and idles perfectly, but when I turn it off the jets are leaking into the motor. What is causing this? It floods the engine and makes it very hard to start. Thanks for any help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 If the Weber uses a float, sounds like the float s too low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 How do I go about adjusting it? I didn't notice any type of adjustment screw? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 That condition is most often caused by a leaky power valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 You bend the tab attached to the float. Goggle "weber float adjustment". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazomatic Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) Check your float. I just eyeballed mine and it seems to work.... Take the top off, and turn it upside down. Adjust the tab so that the float is parallel with the gasket surface of the top. Do not! Bend the tab by just pushing on the float with it resting against the inlet needle. It'll damage the tip and/or the seat. Edited February 10, 2015 by spazomatic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 OK. I'll take it apart this weekend. When I rebuilt it I didn't change the power valve, so maybe that's it. I think the float is gtg, but will still check. I noticed it doesn't do it all the time, just occasionally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) Thanks for the suggestions BTW! Edited February 10, 2015 by iluvdrt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 OK. I'll take it apart this weekend. When I rebuilt it I didn't change the power valve, so maybe that's it. I think the float is gtg, but will still check. I noticed it doesn't do it all the time, just occasionally. If it doesn't happen all the time, you might want to make sure the power valve plunger/acuator is backing-off the power valve sufficiently to allow it to close. Did you replace the power valve diaphragm when you rebuilt the carb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 I did not. Only the diaphragm on the accelerator pump. I couldn’t find a complete kit, so I just ordered the one from weber direct plus a new filter. It did come with a new needle seat, but nothing I found came with the power valve. Ill just order one. Im 99% sure the floats are good. It measured out on my ruler before I installed it. I never even took off the power valve. Just cleaned everything with kerosene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 I changed the power plunger diaphragm and it still drips when I shut it off. It leaks about 1/2 the bowl in then stops. The float sits level and only moves 2-3 mm while pressing the bearing. I wish I knew what all of these things do. Could the thing the power plunger pushes down on be leaky? It seems fuel flows from the bottom of the bowl,up through the jets and then out the jet nozzles. What does that button thing do at the bottom of the bowl? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 Although, its not nearly as bad now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 Does the power plunger suck up until it looses vacuum from an opened throttle and then go down to press the power valve allowing more fuel in when at WOT? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 I changed the power plunger diaphragm and it still drips when I shut it off. It leaks about 1/2 the bowl in then stops. The float sits level and only moves 2-3 mm while pressing the bearing. I wish I knew what all of these things do. Could the thing the power plunger pushes down on be leaky? It seems fuel flows from the bottom of the bowl,up through the jets and then out the jet nozzles. What does that button thing do at the bottom of the bowl? The button thing at the bottom of the bowl is the power valve. The plunger just pushes down on the power valve to open it, so if the plunger does not back off the power valve enough then it will hold it partially open. The plunger is actuated by the power valve diaphragm that is located on the top of the plunger in the choke body of the carb. Fuel flows in from the top of the bowl through the float valve and out the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 OK cool. Maybe the valve itself is bad. I don't see how I can adjust either the vlavle or the plunger. Its not as bad as it was. Thanks for all of the help. Next is jet issues. Under light throttle, right around 2800 rpms it falls on its face until the secondaries open. I need to see what jets I have because the carb came from Denver and I'm in social. I'm thinking they may be smaller. Its not a big deal, but I am super OCD with how my cars run. It also has a stumble specifically in 3-4 gear at about the same throttle position. No vacuums leaks. Every gaskets was replaced (even intake manifold), every hole and bolt chased with a tap and die, and every surface checked with a machinist's ruler. The only thing I haven't done is do a compression test. I didn't think k I needed too because it ran fine with the hiatachi. I am super impressed with the weber though. When floored, man does it scream. I may port the intake a bit to match the adapter plate. There is a noticible lip under the primary because the adapter plate is larger, and I can't help but think some of my drivability issues could be related to shitty air flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazomatic Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Sounds like its running lean. Presuming it was tuned correctly for denver altitude...its definitely got too small of jets. Find out the sizes you have in it now, and then buy yourself an assortment of sizes so you can dial it in to your OCD heart's content. Im the same way...tinker till its juuust right. Makes for a fine running machine, but it can also be a time consuming PIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Well do thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Does anyone know if the DGEV jets are the same as the DFEV? I am guessing they are, but as I found out in my 2 different rebuild kits, not everything is the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 only experience I have with a weber is not good - bought used, never used it, onsold to a guy needing a weber, jinxed himself there and then - did not pay fully, it gave him same problem as his first weber, so there was something wrong with mine of course, he and his car building mates too tight or stupid to put a kit through it - he failed to pay the balance owing and avoided me ever since..... I do know that the weber has a float and would suggest something different - fuel delivery pressure causing the fuel to leak out the jets. Would it hurt to crimp off the rubber fuel in line closest to carby to see if leak stops? If float chamber filling up and flooding, has to leak out jets sure;ly ?It may need a return line teed into fuel in and back to filter like EA81 from 1984 at least ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Installing a return line would be hard since there is no outlet, I can check the fuel pressure though and perhaps get a regulator with a return. I have read Webers are happy around 3-4 PSI. I am running the stock pump (AFAIK), so maybe this is something to look into. Thanks for the tip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Its actually running very well. I ordered a jet kit today, and plan on porting the intake where the adapter goes to smooth out the lip thats there. I can't imagine that is good for air flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazomatic Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 The return line fitting for a stock carb will work on the weber. Mine was much happier once i added that and a regulator. That wont solve the problem of it draining though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 My weber does not have return line hole like my hiatachi did. Do I just install the return line into the fuel supply hose and place the pressure regulator inline on the return line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 If you look at the old hitachi....there is a fitting where the fuel line flows in. It is a "T" of sorts, with the main fuel line being 5/16" or so, and the smaller "T" of the side is a return loop to the tank...is like 1/8". This is common for older carbed cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 (edited) OK, I know what it is now, Thanks. If I am installing a pressure regulator, should it go into the return line to prevent too much fuel from getting recirculated? Edited February 19, 2015 by iluvdrt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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