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I recently swapped an ej22 obdi into an 85 westy. Today i removed the throttle body because i had to mount the ignitor to the firewall. I removed the four bolts and moved it to side. After, I put everything back together and started engine it idled real rough. It holds idle at 900 rmp but shakes way to much. Now i'm trying to figure out what I did. I double checked the vacuum connection but nothing was lose. I torque the bolts down to 17 ft pounds. The computer isn't throwing any codes.  Any help is appreciated.

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Shaking at 900 rpm is a misfire. Check the wiring to the igniter and the coil pack. Also make sure the plug wires are firmly clicked into place at each end. I've seen the coil ends pop out because they're a bit too loose and it can be hard to tell at first glance.

 

Also, idle should be about 700-725. If it idles at 900 all the time the TPS may be out of adjustment or the throttle stop screw has been messed with.

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So i'm complete newb when it comes to all this but this is reason bought the van and did the swap. I want to learn.  I check the TPS sensor at terminal 2&3 and I have 9.75 ohms at open and closed throttle. Then i check it on 2&4 and i have 9.34 ohms at closed throttle and 2.06 at open. From my understanding the TPS sensor might be bad. 

 

Also i checked the plugs and they all looked good. Is it possible that i could have damaged the ignitor when i screwed it into the firewall? If so is there a way to check the ignitor?

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Doubt you did any damage to the igniter. I'm wondering if the throttle body sealed up all the way. Did you replace the gasket or use any silicone when you reinstalled it? I've swapped them a couple times and reused the gaskets without issue. Probably tightened a lot more than 17lbs.

 

Did you remove or loosen the TPS for any reason? They are pretty easy to adjust.

 

It sounds like a misfire but if it were there should be a code. Since there isn't, double and triple check everything you did. Plug wire connections, vac hoses, any sensors or wiring that may have been disconnected. It will show itself eventually.

 

The only way i know to check the igniter is by comparing it to another one. I have about 5 or 6 good used ones laying around my garage and am just over the hill from you if it does need to be checked. But as I said, doubtful that it's the igniter.

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If it has the 4 pin TPS there is an idle switch contact that must close when the throttle is closed. This tells the ECU to bring the engine down to normal idle speed. If the switch doesn't close it will not "idle" because the throttle is partly open as far as the ECU is concerned.

 

Check resistance pin 1- 2 at closed throttle, should be 0 ohms. Open the throttle slightly and see if the reading changes to infinite or O.L. (Or it could be the other way: infinite when closed,and 0ohm when open) if the idle switch contact isn't closing when the throttle hits closed, adjust the TPS until it does. If the idle switch never changes, remove the TPS from the throttle body and test again after working the TPS full sweep a few times. If it still doesn't change, TPS is bad.

 

Checking across pins 2-3 will always be the same resistance regardless of throttle position. You're measuring the whole resistive strip when checking those pins.

Resistance will change when checking across pins 2-4 and will be inverse when checking 3-4. Pin 4 is the "slider" or the contact that slides across the resistive strip in the TPS. Resistance changes based on how far current has to move through the resistive strip to get to the slider.

 

 

A diagram usually helps to understand what's going on.

tps.jpg

Edited by Fairtax4me
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When I checked the resistance at terminal 1&2,  i got 0 ohms at closed throttle and OL at open.

 

I also found another test online where you back prove terminal 2&4 with ignition on.  Throttle closed i have 4.80 volts and open .930

The voltage  should vary .5 to 1.0 volt at closed throttle and 4.5 to 5.0 volts wide open throttle. 

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/Haynes/tps.jpg

Edited by JC20
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I didn't replace the gasket, but it's practically new i cleaned up and replaced the  all gaskets when i cleaned up the intake  manifold a couple of months ago. The manual also calls for 15-18 ft pounds. The screws on the throttle body don't look like they moved they still have paint marks from the factory. I'm going to start fresh today and look over my work. 

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This morning i decided to check the coil. I started the engine and disconnected the spark plug wire from cylinder 1+2  and the engine kept running. When I disconnected 3+4 ,the engine would die immediately. I believe that means 1+2 are not firing. I checked the primary resistance  1+2 = 00.8 ohms  2+3=00.8 ohms  secondary resistance  1+2  19.9 ohms 3+4 19.8 ohms. I have a diamond coil. 

Edited by JC20
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Wiring is probably the issue. Open circuit between the coil and igniter, or between the igniter and ECU.

 

The ECU commands the igniter to ground the coil in order to produce spark. The coil halves (1-2,3-4) share common power. Igniter grounds the half that it wants to fire.

If you check the outer wires on the coil plug with a test light you'll see the light blink on the 3-4 side.

Should be solid light on the 1-2 side which means its not getting the ground from the igniter.

 

Check connectors and make sure they're fully together and none of the pins are bent or backed out. Unplug the coil and igniter and check continuity from the 1-2 wire at the coil plug to the igniter plug. Wires should be the same color at each end.

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I checked continuity red-green and blue wire and they both are ok. I've gone back to several times to the old igniter and the problem returns. I will keep looking to see if there a problem.

 

However i'm fighting a high idle engine likes to idle 900 to1000 rpms. 

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