wchall12 Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 (edited) I may be purchasing a 2003 Legacy 2.5L L with the SOHC. Automatic transmission. It has 120k on it, and the owner doesn't have any of the repair records. His mother has owned it for the last 4-5 years and didn't have any repairs done. Long story short, it hasn't had the timing belt overhaul done, or anything from what I can tell. He says there is also a "small" oil leak that he "thinks" is from the front of the engine. It also has a salvaged title. I plan to test drive it and look over it with a fine tooth comb sometime between Friday and Sunday. If the price is right, I'll buy it.I'd like to pull the engine and do an immediate replacement of the necessary things. I have a bit of engine experience so I'm confident I can do it. I'm also confident if I do this overhaul this engine should last another 150k easy (notice I said engine, not the body haha). What should I replace on the engine, providing I get the car?Here's my current list:Timing belt kit from amazon including all idler pulleysWater pump w/OEM gasketOEM T-statFront oil seals (2 cam, 1 crank)Oil pump?O-ring for oil pump?Rear main seal (since I already have the engine out?)Oil pan gasketSubaru Turbo EJ25 head gasketsSpark plug grommetsExhaust gasketsIntake gasketsSpark plugs? *Added: Valve cover gaskets Adjust the valves Resurface the heads Tighten rear oil pump backing plate screws Reseal the rear separator plate Replace the access cover o-ring Elbow "bypass" hose from water pump Replace coolant hoses that go to the oil cooler if it has it What else would y'all suggest replacing while I have the engine out?Is there something in this list that y'all wouldn't replace?I appreciate it! Edited February 26, 2015 by wchall12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 tensioner is part of the timing kit, so you can remove that from the list rear main seals never leak but you can certainly replace it. add to the list - valve cover gaskets, adjust the valves, Subaru Turbo EJ25 head gaskets, resurface the heads, tigthen rear oil pump backing plate screws and a Subaru OEM water pump gasket. Yes there's an oring for the oil pump. reseal the rear separator plate. some valve cover gasket sets come with the spark plug tube gaskets. OEM head gaskets for that year Ej25 leak externally so you could avoid the headgasket replacement until you see signs of external leakage. they start to just get wet and are years/10's of thousands of miles usually before they even start to drip - they get worse very slowly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 Reseal the separator plate on the back of the block. Replace the access cover o-ring (diamond shape cover opposite of the separator plate) or seal it with RTV. Rear main seals often don't leak until AFTER they've been replaced. More than likely the RMS is fine. If you do decide to replace it, be sure the new seal gets driven in perfectly straight. If it has the oil cooler where the oil filter spins on, replace the big o-ring gasket between the cooler and the block. Valve cover gaskets for sure. Head gaskets are kind of a toss-up on those years. I wouldn't bother with that unless there is major evidence of a leak from the head-block areas. Replace the little elbow "bypass" hose that runs to the side of the water pump. Also replace the coolant hoses that go to the oil cooler if it has it. Those often get covered in oil, and oil soaked coolant hoses are a ticking time-bomb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wchall12 Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 Alright, thanks guys. What website do you guys like the best for getting parts? Any specialty tools I MUST have? I like these Subaru pulley removal tools (http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Crank-Pulley-Tool-C23-503/dp/B009ZDCQX2), but they're too expensive for me. I'll either try to borrow one from a friend or rent it. Do you like this Permatex gasket maker? http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-9181-Right-Gasket-1-minute/dp/B001F293MS/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1424968844&sr=1-1&keywords=gasket+material+right+stuff I'm also going to borrow an engine stand to hold the engine while I do the work. And hopefully my stationary pulley set-up from the ceiling of my garage will suffice for lifting and separating the engine from the transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 (edited) Minus accessories the SOHC 2.5 weighs in at right about 225 lbs. If your pulleys/ rafters can support that you should be good to go. Pulley holders aren't usually necessary. Removal and tightening of the cam sprocket bolts can be done by wrapping the old timing belt around the sprocket and the crank. Holding the crank is easy with a screwdriver or prybar jammed in the flexplate. There are holes on either side of the block perfect for a screwdriver to fit into. Pic about 1/3 down on this page: http://beergarage.com/SubyTBelt.aspx The Right stuff is good for the oil pan. For the pump you'll want to use Anaerobic sealant. Edited February 26, 2015 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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