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1995 Legacy Power Windows Master Controller Problem


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Hey,

 

A few months ago, my drivers window started acting erratic. Then, when it wouldn't work, the switch would buzz. But repeatedly pushing the button, the window would eventually go up or down.

 

Then the switch quit working. It wouldn't raise or lower any of the windows. Each switch at each other door would still work for each window, but the driver's master switches wouldn't work.

 

I took out the master switch and then none of the window switches in the car worked.

 

I put in a used master switch, and all the other switches work again, but the master does not work, and the green LED does not light up.

 

Could the replacement be a bad switch? or could this be a different problem?

 

Thanks any advice you might have.

 

Khamier

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You can actually take apart the main switch, clean and, and re install it. If you have two of them take one apart to see how it works and what needs cleaning. Usually the contacts get burnt from age, a little emery board cleans them up.

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I returned the switch to the junkyard, but I have to wait until they have someone to test it.

 

Does anyone know what the voltage should be going into the switch? I think I only have 4V when I test the 2 center plugs on the main connector. Shouldn't it be 12V? or is there a resister before the connector?

 

This switch is very difficult to separate(open) without breaking, it's the square one, not the long rectangle. I took apart the old one and broke it, I'm shy about taking apart the new one as it cost $40.

 

Thanks for the responses and advice :)

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Yes there should be 12v going to the switch.

 

Diagram says it should be a black and yellow wire. That's your 12v source.

If it's less than that check voltage on the Black yellow wire in the door harness connector down behind the kick panel. Its a large 24 pin connector.

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A circuit breaker and relay for the power windows are behind the kick panel under the steering column.

 

The same color wire black and yellow is the power coming out of the relay to the windows.

All 4 windows are powered from here, so if voltage at this wire is good the problem is going to be in the wiring to the drivers door.

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Thanks a lot Fairtax, it was the 24-pin connector, I pulled it out and it looked like the inside of a 10 year old flashlight with batteries left in it. The black/yellow wire was so corroded it broke off at both ends of the connector as I pulled it out. Also, the blue/red wire broke(any idea what that is for?)

 

I patched both of the wires and tested it  :  12 V  !!

 

So, I went back to the junkyard and got the controller back from them plugged it in and everything is working awesome!

 

If only I had seen that wire before I tried to open the old controller, I might have saved $40. But at least.... it's working.

 

That's 2 problems you helped me with this week, thanks a million. Now I can open my windows and smell gasoline-free fresh air.

 

Awesome!!

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