beauregaardhooligan Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 ...4dr, 5spd with the selector on top of the shift knob. Straight body with no dings or obvious rust. Moon roof, digi-dash, p/w, etc. 152K for $1495. Is that a fair price? I heard it run, sounded good, no smoke. Haven't driven it yet, I need to find out more about these, what to look out for and so forth. Would that be the viscous center dif? I didn't see a locking switch. There was some oil on the top of the motor, but nothing dripping underneath. Needs an exhaust pipe at least from the rear axles back, is that where the muffler goes? All opinions and advice gratefully accepted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 No viscous center diff. When the button isn't pushed, its FWD, when pushed, its 4WD. Diff Ratio is 3.70. Exhaust is 3 pieces, downpipe, midpipe with cat, and tail pipe with muffler. 1495 is more than I would pay for an 86, but its not unreasonable, especially if its rust free on the east coast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rweddy Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 No too bad. Fun cars, but be ready for some turbo issues at some point. Also check for high controlled suspension. These tend to go out and can be spendy to replace. I had a GL-10 86 Sedan, great little car, mine was an auto otherwise I might still have it. Offer them 1k, have it in cash, $$$ talks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 I paid $750 for an '87 GL-10 5-spd Turbo 4x4 in November last year. He originally wanted $1,400. It had 142K. It's from up North. I bought it from a guy in New Orleans. Primary issue with it is rust holes in both rear quarter panels, corrosion on electrical connectors and severe rubber dry rot on rubber boots under the hood from the heat. Motor clean as a whistle when I bought it; three months later, oil leaks from pan gasket, valve covers etc, meaning he degreased the motor before selling it. Every used car I've purchased, I've had to put at least $500 into repairs in the six months following the purchase and I always keep that in mind. Tire tread may be good but tires may be old, will have unseen dry rot and will disintegrate at highway speeds, or have been run a low psi, which will cause belt separation. When did he have the timing belts changed last, and can he prove it? If you don't do it yourself, $500 plus. $175-$250 for parts if you do it yourself and do the recommended additional changes: water pump, front seals, oil pump seal and maybe oil pump. Hope that helps. Unless the guy has a stack of maintenance records, that's more than I would pay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rweddy Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 Every used car I've purchased, I've had to put at least $500 into repairs in the six months following the purchase and I always keep that in mind. Yea you need to check the car out, or if you are not mechanically inclined pay to have it looked at. A great book is "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive: 1975 To 1988: A Manual of Step by Step Procedures for the Complete Idiot by Larry Owens” This has great check list on what to look for when buying used. I am not sure what they cost there, but 4wd Subaru’s in Colorado hold their value well, I got my 86 back in 94 with 64k original miles but the brakes were bad front and rear, I paid 1500.00. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandman Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 I just bought an '87 GL10 Turbo 4x4 Wagon for $900. It has 180,000 miles but a younger motor put into it with new brakes, clutch, and radiator. Sure is a lot more fun to drive then my 1 ton Dually truck. Lots cheaper too. I'm already reading up and increasing the Turbo and some other things. Searching has been my friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beauregaardhooligan Posted May 22, 2004 Author Share Posted May 22, 2004 I really appreciate the responses, fellas! As I have zip experience with turbos, they are what concerns me the most. Are there any fer-shure dead give-aways of a problem with the turbo? I'm always hearing about them running hot and burning the turbo bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted May 22, 2004 Share Posted May 22, 2004 Any obvious oil seepage between the turbo unit. Check all the cooling lines, water & oil. If it smokes real bad it could be the seal in the turbo. Take it for a drive and see how well it pulls. If things feel all right while driving, push it a little. When you get back open the hood and take a look around for oil/water. If there is a lack of power, it could be from a clogged downpipe/cat. Ask the owner if they let it cool down before they shut the car off. One good thing about the EA82 turbo units, they are cheap to replace and easy to find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beauregaardhooligan Posted May 22, 2004 Author Share Posted May 22, 2004 Well, I took it for a spin and it runs really well. The guy runs a parts store so he couldn't be gone long and we didn't go far, but there was no smoke or hesitation at all. Seemed to pull well. I saw 60 in 3rd with no trouble. When we got back, I let it idle for awhile, and the temp stayed just below 1/2 way. The ECS light was on the whole time, what is that, emission control system? Would the muffler being gone make it be on? It *does* have the Electronic Height Control, but it appears to be disconnected. I searched, but couldn't find much about it. How is it supposed to work? The clutch has a lot of travel, but didn't slip. The adjustment nut seemed to have some left, showed just under 2 inches of rod used. Thanks again, ya'll! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted May 22, 2004 Share Posted May 22, 2004 The ECS/Check Engine Light is on to tell you that there are error codes stored in th computer. And no, the muffler being gone wouldn't cause it to come on. The air ride, if disconnected, would mean that it has been converted to coil spring suspension. If it was disconnected and still had the air struts, the car would be really low and ride like poo. Do a search for 'air ride' to read more on the horrors of it. I wouldn't worry about the turbo too much.. they don't die very often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beauregaardhooligan Posted May 24, 2004 Author Share Posted May 24, 2004 Well, I took a 2nd look. Turbone, you probably saved me a bunch of headache! There is oil all around the turbo on the intake side. When I asked the guy where all the oil came from, he denied there was any oil! Like I don't have any eyes in my head. As I started to undo the aif-filter box, he stopped me and said there were fragile parts in there and he wouldn't let me open it. duh I told him never mind and walked away. Too bad, it was a cute little bugger! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted May 25, 2004 Share Posted May 25, 2004 seems alittle hi , i got a a/t turbo full time 4wd gl-10 w/ air susp that works, w/ 81,000mi , and a gl manual dual range wagon w/ 180,000mi for sell than what you where going to pay, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted May 25, 2004 Share Posted May 25, 2004 Well, I took a 2nd look. As I started to undo the aif-filter box, he stopped me and said there were fragile parts in there and he wouldn't let me open it! Mine was so fragile I removed it and slapped a cone filter on there. Fragile.. jeez.. Be careful.. we all know them thar airfilter housings are made of glass! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted May 25, 2004 Share Posted May 25, 2004 I cant believe the guy said that! Glad the red flags went up, I think I would have choked trying not to laugh. Altho its ok to have a little seepage, it also depends on where the oil is located. When it blows white smoke, it means the oil seal on the turbine side is leaking. Blue smoke means its leaking from the compressor side oil seals. When it is a leak on the compressor side, it blows oil into the plenum/throttle body. If there was oil in the air box, this baby had something real wrong But I guess we will never know, seeing how it was in such a delicate state. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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